Frank Angerano

Correct !

Got ya, work work work and no play is no fun! But you can’t have toys work out the work!

Absolutely agree w @scotty2hotty01 . Spark first then the carb. You could have fouled the plug as well. Check the spark with a new plug first. Go from there.

Looks great kid. Nice work. Keep it up.

I’ve never had any luck with aftermarket cheap cdi units. Always like the oem cdi when it comes down to it. The Chinese ones look great plug right in but are worthless. Ive been lucky with caltrec stator coils though. So far used a few and they’ve been good. Thats a great carburetor you put on. Prob cost a bit! $$$ but well worth it.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222707939483 This relay would work. I’ve attached some images of it along with the wiring. You would have to buy a few connectors. They are called “steak on’s” four females. 3 of them for 14 gauge wire and one for 10 gauge wore.

Nice set up. Can’t wait to see how she runs.

That looks amazing!

I know who you are Mr Brian Simmons! Lol I’m trying to help you so take a deep breath and take a look at the diagram I highlighted for you. The relay your going to need is the starter relay. That’s what appears to be missing based on the pictures and the diagram/wire colors for the bike. Color code: green = green wire yellow stripe pink = red wire white stripe blue = blue wire white stripe red = red wire small red wire goes to the relay and then to the battery. Red wire with a red stripe goes from the relay to the starter. Blue wire with white stripe comes from the handle bars left side and goes to the relay. Check that control left hand and trace it back it should be he wire you have shown. green with yellow stripe comes out of the relay and splits to the tail light and to the brake switch on the left handle bar. Take a look at the diagram, study it and take your time. Your also going to need a relay and plug assembly. I will take a look and see where you can find one.

I’m going to sort some wires out for you on the diagram. This will help you out. In the mean time are there any relays that are there that are cut or a place where one was ? The wires your showing me are for a start circuit relay. Not the starter relay but the start circuit. It looks bypassed.

Use a pair of needle nose vice grips and grab the sides of the screws on the carburetor. I’ve done that and had great success. And keep in mind that this may not be a air fuel issue and just a starved fuel condition caused by the float not filling the bowl, the needle jet E clip may not be set in the right groove. An air starvation at the intake as well. Heck it could be electrical for all we know. So process of elimination is going to be key here and keeping your cool Bc this can be a frustrating thing. So walking away for a few days is not a bad thing.

I laughed my as* off on the spark testing process. Well at least spark is good! So that small brass plug with the two small button holes in it. That’s a tamper proof cap. You can buy the right tip at any hardware store or make one up by grinding the middle of a screw driver out to look like a two prong screw driver that fits with adjusting as your grinding. Or a small very pointed needle nose pliers. Unscrew that and the air/fuel screw should be underneath it. If you unscrew it all the way and it has the needle attached then it’s the actual air fuel screw itself. That would suck because it’s going to be a bi*** to adjust while the bike is running but your going to have to modify that angle screwdriver with a grinder to fit the holes and go that route. The air/fuel screw should be set right around 2-1/4 turns out from a snug tight position. So try that first and run the bike and see how it goes. Also double check the float level. While the carburetor is off the bike take the bowl/float cover off. Hook a clean hose up to the fuel connection on the carburetor. Hold the carburetor straight as if it were on the engine and blow into the hose. Air should come out of the bottom of the carb where the float pin is. As your blowing air raise the float up and see how far up the float goes before the air stops. It should be about 3/4 way up. If it’s closing sooner then it needs to be adjusted. See how that works out and get back.

Side by side ahh ok. Never seen SXS before as an abbreviation. A four seater less then 51” I think I’ve seen some that narrow but they were more of the utility type not sporty. Check out this review page. You can click on each of the links on each manufacturer for the specs. The maverick is 50” https://www.utvguide.net/50-inch-trail-capable-utvs/

I’m assuming your referring to a 6x6 ? I’ve only seen a few come by here and there and look cool as heck but it’s a once in a while post. They do accommodate up to six or four people As far as the 4 seater well there are many types and brands that you would not need a 6x6 for. But if your hell bent on that take a look at Polaris Good luck

That’s great to hear. Pass it down and pay it forward.

Ok got it now. I was just wondering because you seem very knowledgeable on the engine side of things.

Listen to me, you have nothing to loose brother. Go for it and let’s see how it goes. Worst case you keep looking for a new casing in the mean time. However when are you going to start looking for a quad ?

I don’t think that’s going to work out on a weld. I would look for a new casing. It’s just so far worn even if you had it repaired finding the center point of the hole would be a tough one. And if it’s not perfectly centered then it’s going to wear and tear again.

That’s why you have members here to help us all make educated decisions!

Wow timing marks already for a 2019 what happened ? No warranty ? I was able to pull up few pages for a 2018 model. I hope it helps.

That’s a great post @scotty2hotty01 I am a big Honda fan. Yes CR was the initials. I hand my first cr80 and it was a great bike. Ran the heck out of it and quickly went up to a 125 then 250 and swapped over to the Kawasaki where I raced my as* off for a few years. Then off to ATV’S...... Still like Kawasaki but always loyal to my Honda and always looking to figure out the next brand and project which I’m hoping will be a Suzuki. It’s really the only atv I’ve yet to get my hands on. We will see what happens, right now I have this Kawasaki Mojave on the table and have had zero time to play with it. #Quadcrazy

I’ve had one of these bikes. Aside from the obvious things I pointed out in my previous post one thing I had to constantly do was change the plug. Or at least pull it and clean it. You jogged my memory on this. Try this. Go buy two spark plugs. Run the bike as it is and the next day see what happens when you go to start it. If it does not start right up swap the plug for a new one and see if it starts up. Next day right out of the gate put a new plug in again and see if it starts right up. If so the plug is getting fouled a bit lessening the spark. Why ??? Could only be a few reasons.... These engines are not really well built and oil gets into the head though valve seals or rings etc. Mine always blew a little blue smoke out of the exhaust. I was convinced oil was getting into the head. Also I leaned out the carburetor a little and it helped but not too much where the engine ran like crap. Maybe you can start there and see if the problem gets a little better with adjusting the fuel air screw first.

If your able to, what I do is find an old cheap screwdriver and cut the shaft from the flat tip down about an inch. Then reconnect them with a tight fitting piece of rubber hose. This makes the screwdriver flexible and can make a nice turn. If not they sell a small right angle flat tip screwdriver. I-MART 3 Pcs Offset Screwdriver Set Right Angle Phillips Screw Driver/Flat Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDJGV92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ahOeDbAQAZV07

Thanks brother. You would not believe how many old tanks are still on the trails today. My oldest bike up until not too long ago was an 86. Sold it and it still runs great. I love the new bikes and the technology put into them today but to be honest if it were not for problem codes coming up on the screens pointing owners in the right direction we would all be screwed! Not a lot of people know what to do today when problems arise. On our older bikes we have the usual suspects. Carburetor, CDI, stator and ignition coils and general wire failures. Unless it’s mechanical like valves and timing issues. But either way it’s limited to these above listed items for the most part. Other than that with proper maintenance they will run for decades.

I would double check that the choke is working properly. Then I would assume that the carburetor is loosing its fuel. Where it’s going is the question. You could also have a crack in the rubber boot connecting the carburetor to the engine.