Gwbarm

Ive had trouble with those caps also, when in doubt replace it, they are cheap also the carbon wires are also prone to break somewhere between coil and plug I would go ahead and replace the wire as well and check all coil connections. I agree if it cranks as easy as you say with no smoke, compression doent seem to be a problem, but strange readings, a 4 stroke engine should barely run with compression of 75 if at all, and would certainly be hard to start. So im thinking your 120 maybe closer to .correct

Iv had a few no name ones and had lots of trouble finding parts, maybe yours won't be that way.

You shouldn't have to cut the cable the spring and plunger holds it together and the plastic piece just holds it to the engine, I was replacing my carb any way so I had it out and even with it out it was difficult to get the new plastic piece to screw into carb not enough room for a wrench or fingers ended up using needlenose pliers. I tried the aftermarket carb only because the OEM for mine was 600.00, more than I paid for the bike, figured if it didn't work good it was a 40.00 gamble, but so far I couldn't ask for better.

Due to the age of the machine and the reputation of abuse these engines get I agree with mech it could very well be the rings, but it could be a combination of worn rings and leaky valves. If the rings were worn bad enough to cause this problem it should be smoking a lot. Always check the compression with the throttle completely open. If this happened to me the first thing would do would be try a different compression tester, I have not had good luck with testers accuracy. You said the more you tested the higher the compression would get so the more rotation the more oil is getting pumped through the system and would also point to rings, but because of the popping and backfiring I would think leaky valves, there could be carbon deposits not letting the valves close completely, I would suspect the exhaust valve. You said that when it gets hot it won't start that does point to low compression or flooding . Maybe do a compression test when it won't start hot and see what you get. Just my thoughts.

Amazon

Thats interesting in my state you can register it with a title they will take your money but you still can't ride it on the road legally. They said to be road worthy had to have DOT approved tires and seat belt so asked why do I not need a seat belt on my motorcycle he said because it has 2 wheels if it has 4 it needs a seat belt that's crazy. I think they make stuff up as they go along.

Its very possible aftermarket switch is not wired the same you might switch some wires around and find the right circuit

That looks like the choke plunger it screws in, mine was plastic so it didn't damage carb threads, it came with the new carb that I ordered, I doubt it comes with a kit so you will need to order separately, if you are not replacing carb. If its not broke you may be able to clean up the threads and screw it back in.

Looks like a Trail Blazers paradise

Not sure if yours is wired like this, but the few water cooled units I have worked on have a thermo switch on the radiator that turns the fan on and off as needed, if you bypass this switch the fan will only run with the key in the off position, that's my reasoning for thinking the thermo switch is bad. Now if yours has a relay like Dave suggested that may be different.

Very nice upgrades , lights are really nice.

This is by far the best quad site I have been on . Appreciate all the information shared, and the Administrators are so helpful. Just wanted to relay my appreciation. Thanks everyone.

Sounds like the thermostat that turns the fan on may be bad.

If this is aftermarket, I would double check that its wired like the old one, not all aftermarket is plug and play I found out recently.

I ve never had much luck at rebuilding these small master cylinders, bores are too corroded, just relating my experience, plus the kits aren't cheap for what you get. Im not telling you not to try, I will try anything once, maybe even twice, plus there is nothing more valuable than getting your own experience.

Mikunis are great carburetors , but when they get some age on them I have a problem with them flooding out, not sure what your problem is but if you have a clean carb and won't adjust I would start looking at the jets and needle for wear.

Rocky Mountainatvmc.com, and Motosports.com are the two places I use the most to find parts, they have everything.

Used one for front brakes on a Big Bear no problems yet.

Sorry! Didn't mean to question your mechanical ability, that's why I said if it was me, I question mine quite often.

Just for grins I might try to start it just to see what it does, maybe check the compression, sometimes the rings will free up, soak them with carb cleaner, and PB blaster that will take care of the rust and dried gas residue. Make sure valves are not stuck turn over slowly before starting.

In my expierience the factory manual setting is just a starting point to get it running once running if good that's great, but there are other variables that affect it also age and wear of engine, I adjust mine by ear . Set it to factory specs get it running turn it left slowly until the engine slows or starts running badly, then turn it right until the same thing happens and somewhere in between the two points when the engine is running the fastest and smoothest is the sweet spot. Sometimes the best running position with the engine warm results in hard starting when cold so may have to enrich the mixture a little.

Beautiful country nice ride, what more could you ask for.

I would try to determine if it electrical or mechanical, listen closely when you flip the switch for the solenoid click. Maybe jack it up so you can turn the wheels by hand and see what's happening or not happening. If it was me I would think about everything I did when repairing to make sure I didn't forget to do something important.

Sounds like it might be low of fluid , noise coming from front back or engine area.

Make sure there is no load on the throttle cable they are not a perfect fit on an aftermarket carb, after everything else you have done I might check the timing, it should not be off, but to advanced could cause a high idle, the only other thing I can think of is running to lean, I didn't have this problem, but I have known guys who put on aftermarket carbs describe your problem, and ended up drilling out the jets.