Quantcast
Jump to content


1994 Yamaha big bear 350 Starting Issues


Scoopeddad
Go to solution Solved by bigbear1995,

Recommended Posts

I have a 1994 big bear and I am starting to have issues starting. I put in a new starter and selnoid as the at stopped starting with the electrical but will still start with the pull cord. Where and what now should I be looking at to check? If I turn key to on and the switch to on then hit the start button, the bike clicks and then nothing. Lights still work but no response to the starter. Stumped now. Any help would be greAt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Admin changed the title to 1994 Yamaha big bear 350 Starting Issues

I am having a problem starting also but my issue is that when my 1989 350 big bear is cold the electric start works fine. After riding it for a while (engine is hot) and I turn it off, the e start no longer cranks. I can pull start but not e start. Will the above trouble shooting still apply or might there be a more apparent solution to this issue. 

Thanks in advance!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@etsbigbear I’m assuming your starter is getting hot and not working properly. But will work when cooled down.

 The next time this happens I would try to jump the starter at the solinoid and see if the starter turns the engine. But only do that for a few seconds at most. If you get no spin then most likely a starter.

Also when the symptom happens you can also try this. 

If you have a tester you can see if the wire at the starter is getting 12 volts when you press the start button. Make sure the wire located at the starter is where you are testing. Red lead on the wire at the starter and black lead on a good ground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have not had a chance to get involved with my issue yet but I did try to start today as I like to run my machines every few days. 

So my big bear turned over a couple times and I let off the button. Hit it again and it turned over a couple times. Let off the button and hit it again and only heard a clicking under the seat which sounded like it was on the right side. Anyway I tried to pull start and could never find a spot where the compression didn't want to RIP my arm out of socket. My questions are:

1. Whith this now happening with a cold engine and charged battery does this help to elucidate what may be the problem?

2. Is there a trick to off load the compression for the pull start?

Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay so I had a chance to troubleshoot today. I took the starter selenoid off and touched the wires together several times. A couple of those time it cranked over but did not start because I broke the connection after a couple engine turnovers.

I could not get it to crank again so I took the battery down to get tested as the couple times it turned it seemed sluggish like a weak battery. The battery tested very good.

So after trying to jump the starter to no avail I removed the starter and jumped it with the removed battery and I was successful getting the starter to crank b bu t not every time. It did spin more often than not. So I put everything back on and tried the e start and nothing but a click each time so I used my circuit tester (light) to see if I had juice to the starter when I pressed the start. Yes. Even checked the selenoid which was obvious it worked otherwise I wouldn't have power at the starter. 

Starter just wont crank when it's on the atv! Called a local starter repair shop and they are ordering me $4.50 brushes as this is their guess. I will change those and if it doesnt work I will replace the starter with new.

Question.....does this sound like i have narrowed it down? Could there be another issue? Like i said I even tested the e start button with the light by testing down current of the starter selenoid and ther was power. 

I was also able to start the big bear with the pull start today without losing an upper limb🙄

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like it’s the starter is bad.  Replacing the brushes is a cheap repair so hopefully that’s it. 👍  If the problem still exists then it may be the actual starter itself and that’s cheap enough to change as well.   In the mean time if you’ve loosened and tightened all connections to make sure any corrosion is off ? as well as the main fuse just pull it out, clean and reinstall,  then the last item it could be is the start button not making a solid contact when pressed.  This is possible if the bike has been sitting outside  moisture gets inside the controls oxidizing the copper contacts. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 5 years later...

My big bear has power everwhere ,new battery ,solinoid fuses checked every connection clean ,i can pullstart it cross solinoid to start but not working on the button the kill switch works to shut off and thd horn wont even work but theres power i really want it to work but im at the end of my knowledge any help would be primo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have the service manual and have you been tracing the power through the wires as it shows them ? Are you using a test light or a gauge, because a gauge will show power even when it's going through a dirty connection that's not letting enough power through to run anything. You need to test with a light, or do what's known as a "voltage drop test" with a gauge, and it has to be done with the circuit you are testing under a load.

I'd start at the key/main switch and check there's power to there and going through it, and it may be that it has two seperate switching movements in there, and on some models one earths to kill the ignition and one turns the power on, and in others they both turn on separate powers. Then I'd check that relay Gw's mentioning, and then I'd check the starter solenoid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By Clydaho
      2022 Sector 550, 414 miles on it and the gas gauge reads empty.  I topped off the gas and it didn't change.
      There is no fuse that I could find.  No access at the gauge cluster.
      Wiring on the top of the tank looks good, properly connected.
      Could the sending unit in the tank be stuck or broken?
      Has anybody removed the tank lid?  Any tricks?  
      Any other ideas?
      Thanks for any help,
      Clyde
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Gwbarm
      I have been exploring all the options available, so many, its hard to choose. I have kind of narrowed it down to the Honda Pilot, Subaru Outback, and Kind of looking at the Outlander, although its a little small,  the new one is nice looking. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or gripes with any of these rides. I have driven Jeeps for the past 25  years and they have been great, but their price point has gotten to high. Expieriences good or bad would be helpful. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...