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Well I came on here hoping to read a manual about the quad but found that I have to make some posts before that can happen, so here is one.
I work on peoples stuff. Had this well used unit come to me with a no start issue. I found it had fuel and spark was good but it only had 30 pounds of compression. I put each cylinder to TDC and feed the plug hole with a small amount of air pressure and could hear the escaping air coming out the carb openings. I then checked the valves lash at TDC and found that booth cylinders had 0 lash for the intake valves. I reset the lash to .003 for all the intake valves and reapplied a small amount of air pressure and the leaking of air was gone. I then spent a few hours screwing all the parts I had to take off, back together and then drove it out of the shop.
The lash was only 1/4- 1/2 a turn too tight that caused the valve to stay open just enough to make it not start. IMO the heads could use an overhaul some time soon as the valves and seats have become a bit warn.
These ATV's just have too much crap stuffed into a small space, I wounder how many fasteners are used to hold 1 ATV together?
picked up this pos bike for $80 not running. took it home, cleaned the carb and bypassed the fuse- ran great (other than the rev limiter- those things are so stupid) Then one day out of the blue it starts flooding on cold startup and wont idle cold, but idles to fast warm. (too fast being about half throttle speed heh). I tried a new carb ($10) and new sp. new carb wouldnt make it run except on choke and then it was gushing white smoke. I had better things to do with my time so I parked it in a shed and used it for a work bench for a while... this last weekend, I wanted to take it along with the sportman to a mens retreat to let the younger boys have some fun on it-- took about 30mins to pull all the crap I had accumulated on it and then rolled it down to my workshop, put the old carb back on after adjusting the needle clip up two notches (leaner) and threw it back on the bike. Will turn over, but no fire. I didnt have time to check sp that day but just wanted some incite on what could be wrong with this quad (if it even qualifies as being called that)
Theres a horse farm I work/worked at and they have a Rubicon (500cc) think its a 04. Its been having starting issues. First time it wouldnt start, the owner said it had a new battery in it (this is about a year ago I guess..). I replaced the solenoid and then the starter. the battery was dead so I jumped it and then it started fine after the battery charged. about a month later, same problem. I swapped the solenoid back out with the old one(still had it)- nothing. the owner had another battery she said was good, swapped that out and it fired up. Now, today, same problem again... owner says the starter was sluggish and then the battery went dead. Went out and jumped it again and it ran fine (its a carburated atv so its not fond of under freezing temperatures...). the stater is working cause when I got there, the battery had 7-9v on it (multimeter said it was rising and falling (with the key on)). I jumped it off our van and rode it around for say 5-10mins. when I shut it off again, battery is reading 14v with key off and 13v with it on. thats as far as I've gotten.. I asked the owner to let me know if anything else happened later on.. What I'm wondering is if its just the battery, or maybe is the regulator rectifier not working letting the battery be overcharged cause it to die? And then again, the bike could have sat with the key and headlight on overnight for all I know..
Hello guys! I ride a triton 450 super moto. i hawe change connecting road... Now all is okey,test drive ok manny km done. But there is one problem...i hawe buy a new accu. But the starter is verry hard rotate...almost stops. So the motor is wery hard to start. I hawe trie connect the starter directley to accu and its the same thing.Before rebuild the starter has work normal.
What hawe i done wrong?
Sorry for my English:)
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( https://atvtirescanada.com/gorilla-silverback-tire.html )
( https://n2deepcustoms.com/ )
Rox Speed FX risers and bars
( https://bit.ly/2TsRv18 )
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( https://amzn.to/2TrfZYy )
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By Alan Callison
Hello boys and girls!:howdy:I need a little help if ya dont mind.I need to replace the rear axle bearings on my 400 but Im going at this blind having never done it before. Ive looked it up in the repair manual but it doesn't give any specific steps on how to do it. I've got the left rear brakes off already as I was replacing the shoes anyway. Can somebody give me a rundown on what Ive gotta do please?I know I need to pull the right wheel off just havent done that yet. Do I need to take anything apart in the final drive or elsewhere in order to yank the axle out for instance? Which side does the axle come out from,L or R? Any details I need to know will be greatly appreciated.Thanks ya'll!
By Jacob Gentz
I have a 2005 Arctic Cat 500 with a susuki motor, 2500 hours. I was riding it yesterday, came out this morning, will turn over but no start. I have spark and fuel. Took carb off and cleaned it. Back firing out of exhaust and air intake. Not sure how one day it runs but 12 hours later it won't. Just need some pointers on where to look.
So I'm trying to figure out the year of one of my Timberwolf's. I have 4.
2 are definitely 1993's, as I can read the serial number on those.
1 has to be close to a 93, as the back rack and lug width (156) are the same as the 93's.
The last one is killing me. Someone painted over the serial number.
Listed are the differences
Back rack is different. It goes through the plastics and will pivot on the rear attachment. Doesn't have the handles out the side, either.
Doesn't have the loops coming out of front plastics.
Foot rests are different.
Lug pattern is 110.
Everything I've read, says that the Timberwolf was produced from 92-98 and then changed name to Bear Tracker. Most parts are interchangeable through those years. Only change I found, was front brakes were upgraded to disk in 2001.
By Alan Callison
I just got a 2004 Yamaha that needs some work.Its got wet brakes on the front that Im trying to get working.My problem is the brake lever.This the lever on it now.On the master cylinder it has a cable in it that has the wire that fits in a slot inside the lever itself but this lever isn't made for that.I dont know if whoever had it before didn't know what they were doing or what but its the wrong lever for this machine. Can someone point me in the right direction here? I looked at the Yamaha website and the schematics only show a part that looks like this one here. Again,I have a 2004 Yam 400 Kodiak 4x4 and its an automatic model. BTW,the master cyl. was bone dry. I was gonna change out the rear brake shoes and when I went to pull off the wheel,get this, each wheel stud had 2 different sized washers holding the lug nuts to the wheel rim. The stud holes were so worn out it had worn away the base of the studs and the holes were the size of quarter! Im lucky someone didn't die while riding this! A word to the wise.Pay attention to what you buy.Look carefully and keep a keen eye out. This was my fault because it was the 1st ATV Id ever bought and I didnt notice alot on this machine so I guess I count myself lucky in that I didnt get hurt nor did anyone else who rode it either.
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