1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

[Frank Angerano]

Did you do the float adjustment the way it was described? Maybe bend the tab up a little higher? And make sure that the floodiig condition you have is not a loose screw on the bowl of the carb? 

And what setting is the fuel air mixture screw at ? 

Try a few different spots with that screw.  

1-1/2

2 

2-1/2 

 

[JacobSlabach]

update:  I backed the air screw out and it runs now (choke or no choke)  but it sounds as if its knocking/slapping in the head...?

[JacobSlabach]

I also was running it earlier without the gas valve on soooo

[Frank Angerano]

I don’t like that. Is the timing chain tensioner tight and is it possable that you have a valve adjusted to loose ?

[JacobSlabach]

valve might be too lose.  I said earlier that the valve tool I got didnt go as small as what the intake called for.  I used the smallest one it had and tightened it down to get it a little smaller...  I guess I need to order a smaller valve tool?  Its a pretty noticeable tick-like sound, doesnt sound like skirt-slap.  As for the chain tensioner, it is fairly tight--  how tight should it be?

[JacobSlabach]

could it be something wrong with the voltage regulator?  I just looked it up and a guy with a bayou 220 had the same problem and he tested the battery and it went to 25+ volts while at the same time, the engine started knocking...

well, i dont think that would be the case because the battery is about dead on my bike (it would hardly turn the engine over after about the 5th time of trying to start it.

[Frank Angerano]

No not the regulator for a knocking sound.  One has nothing to do with the other.  Here’s my guess.  

1. Loose valve from the adjuster either improperly set and I would address this sooner rather then later only because you might not have tightened down that 10mm nut on the adjuster and it’s loose 🤔

2. The pictures of the cam sprocket looked a little worn so maybe some slapping of the timing chain.  

As for the timing chain tensioner it needs to be tight.  

So it’s running good over all carburetor good ?

[JacobSlabach]

I didnt run it that much cause I didnt know if it was tearing itself up.  Its still burning off the WD40 in the cylinder and on the muffler.  The cam and chain looked brand new and I could hardly budge the chain.  I think clearance is probably the issue...  would I be able to find a valve clearance tool small enough at a auto parts store?

[Frank Angerano]

Yes you should be able to find one at an auto parts store.  It should be very obvious also if you take the caps off and bring it to top dead center yiu will be able to rock each one with your hand. The one with the most play is the culprit. But I would wait until you have the gauge to be correct.  Move them cam and forth as well (side to side) and make sure that’s all good. Making sure you didn’t leave any washers out on the sides of the rockers if there were any. I would have to look at the head assembly to be sure but you would know best. 

[JacobSlabach]

there arnt any washers on the rockers.  the intake was the one that was supposed to be smaller than what I had, could I just tun the adjuster in maybe a quarter turn and run it again to see if it helps?  would that be too risky...  I cant work on the bike after today until next week

[Frank Angerano]

Yes you can do that. You can make tiny adjustments as long as the rocker is not over tightened.  Bring the love to the flattest spot on the cam and see what play yiu have and make a super small adjustment. If you have any doubts then wait for the feeler gauges.  But small increments work hurt.   

[JacobSlabach]

just checked the valve clearance.  Intake (I am not joking) had about 3/8in clearance on it and exhaust had about 1/8in.  I'm not sure how it got that way, the lock nuts were tight.  The only thing I could think of was maybe I didnt adjust them at top dead canter?  I made sure the bike was at top dead center and checked the timing again.

ok

thanks!

On 12/8/2018 at 6:11 PM, JacobSlabach said:

Ok, looked it up, for the forum:  In:   .10-15mm

                                                    Ex:   .20-25mm

I got it as close as I could- the valve clearance tool I bought didn't go that small...  just down to .20mm so I just tightened it farther on it to try and get down to .15mm.  If Its running bad, I'll get a different set and get it exact.  Any tips as I put it back together?  

heres the post where I said my tool wasnt right

[Frank Angerano]

Wow 😮 ok great. 

Rotate the engine worth the covers off and see how they move up and down. Without firing it up obviously. 

Before you close it up double check the cam location in the manual. I can’t remeber exactly 

[JacobSlabach]

ok I'm confused.  

[JacobSlabach]

so I went back out to double check it and turned the engine over one more time because the T mark was off about 1mm from the mark on the cover, and when the flywheel showed the T mark again, I checked the valves and the intake was pushed down about 1/4in and the exhaust 1/8in.  I readjusted the valves, turned the engine over again only to find that the valves were loose like before (1/4in gap in. and 1/8in gap ex.).  I turned the engine over numerous times only to find that the valves are tight every other turn and then loose. 

is something warped maybe?

[Frank Angerano]

No that’s normal. One will go up and one will go down. 

I can explain it to you but you are better off reading the manual to understand it 

[Frank Angerano]

 

Check this out. 

[Frank Angerano]

So that should really clarify how it’s done rather then me explaining. Let me know what you think.  

[JacobSlabach]

I actually watched that YouTube vid already before I started the tear-down, but I will watch it again.

[Frank Angerano]

This will this will clear up any questions you have.   

I’ve used a tin can  before believer it or not 

I’ve used a tin can  as a feeler gauge. 

[JacobSlabach]

 

1 hour ago, Frank Angerano said:

This will this will clear up any questions you have.   

I’ve used a tin can  before believer it or not 

I’ve used a tin can  as a feeler gauge. 

epic diy

[JacobSlabach]

so I watched the video again.  Everything is exactly the same on my bike as what he's saying, and I adjusted the valves just like he did.  I never knew that the was a compression srtoke and a fire stroke, I thought it all happened in one revolution.  So how do I know when Its compression and not fire?

and sorry for my ignorance

lol

[Frank Angerano]

Lol It’s not ignorance. One stroke the piston goes down and the intake valve the one on the carb side opens up and takes air fuel into the cylinder in and closes as the piston travels back up. At that tim and explosion happens bc the spark plug fires igniting the fuel/air. Boom 💥 sends the piston back down driving the engine and Coleman back up and the exhaust valve opens closest to the exhaust letting out the exhaust! 

This is the same premis but fuel injected.  Nothing changes just look at this as if a carburetor is where the injector is. 

[Frank Angerano]

So you see how important the timing is because if that valve is open (down) into the cylinder and that piston comes up and slams into the valve ..... we’ll need I say more ? 

Thats what happens most of the time when a timing chain or belt breaks on an engine there is a catastrophic failure by either a bent valve or a piston with a hole or both  when the two moving components slam into eachoter 😢. 

[JacobSlabach]

ooooooo🤢

ok so how do I know when I'm checking the valves on the compression stroke rather than the combustion stroke?  I'm supposed to adjust the valves on the combustion stroke right?

And thanks for the vid!  really helpful

[Frank Angerano]

No just top dead center.  In that video I sent you it shows that you take the cam sprocket cover off. Bring the engine to TDC and make sure your timing marks are all aligned and use the feeler gauge and set them as per spec tighten good and you are done.  

And FYI the compression stroke is the cumbustion stroke. It easy to figure out. You take the valve caps off and slowly spin the engine.  You will see the intake valve (carburetor side) of the engine open up and then start to close as you continue rotating the engine. As soon as it closes all the way that’s the cumbustion point. The next revolution will be the exhaust stroke.  The exhaust valve (closest to the exhaust) will start to open.  

[JacobSlabach]

so which revolution do I set the valve clearance on?

[Frank Angerano]

No worries on the revolution. You set the valves when the engine is set at top dead center.  Don’t worry about a compression stroke.  Just get it to TDC make sure the T is in the flywheel spot it belongs and the cam sprocket is aligned with the marks on the head and make your adjustment on both valves.   That’s it. 

[JacobSlabach]

Ok.  The think that has me confused is the valves are at different clearances every other revolution at tdc.   

[Frank Angerano]

If you set the timing where it needs to be as described and all marks are lined up then your at top dead center. The valves can now be adjusted as per the manual recommended setting.  

What are you not sure of ?