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Posted

eh sorry- computer issues up there:wacko:  meant to say yes that looks like the head on my bike

so thats literally exactly how i checked timing- t mark on the flywheel and marks on the cam sprocket.  I'm thinking the tensioner is shot letting it jump time or the valves are incorrectly adjusted.  btw, I was wondering how you find certain info in the service manuals?  I find it hard to find the info I'm looking for and get lost lol

Posted

Keeping an eye on this thread, I will love to see you get it all up and running again how it should be. I really like the Fourtraxx but couldn't afford one and ended up with a busted up Suzuki LT250 but shes well on the mend now. I have to replace the barrel next to stop her burning so much oil! maybe then I can make some money and invest in a Honda (preferably a 4x4 but not sure how much Id benefit from it as Ive never needed it with the work I do)

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

ok so took the head off and found that i had indeed timed the cam to the 'F' mark which is exactly one tooth ahead of the 'T' mark on the flywheel.  re timed it back to the 'T' mark and as i was putting the head back together noticed that the intake rocker arm is worn where it contacts the cam lobe.  not sure if this really matters a lot but i did check the valve clearance at tdc and intake was 004 and exhaust was 006.  Was looking fir a new gas tank as thats the next issue..  a replacement is around $200..  the one I have has paint flakes and A LOT of rust flakes in it.  was wondering about cutting it in half. cleaning and graniding the iside down and welding it back together?  looking for advice on that..  so far I haven't put any parts into this machine but I know that it needs new brake and choke cables..  had to cut the old ones out with bolt cutters just to get the bike to roll.

Posted

What’s the year ?

If that tank is in solid condition structurally then I would make up a tip for your compressor with maybe a 16 inch long piece of flexible copper  tube and pinch the tip a little for better pressure.  Angle the copper as needed to get inside.  Stick it in the tank and blow the sh** out of it. Hit all sides and the bottom and creases as best possible. Then fill it half way with boiling hot water, add Dawn kitchen dishwashing soap put the cap on and shake the tank good.   Spill it out and rinse it all out good with a hose.  Blow it out again to get the rest of the junk and water out.  Then hit it with a hair dryer on hot so all the water inside dries up and creates no rust.  Spray the inside all around with WD 40 and let it sit a day.   

I would put a quarter tank of gasoline in it put the cap on and swish it around and dump it into a clean bucket and see if you get any more flakes or dirt.  

 

Posted

A trick  we've often  used to  clean small   tanks is to  put some pebbles or  marbles in them  and  give a good shaking to  knock  any rust, scale or other solids loose ..  Shake out the rocks and crud. and have a look.  If there's still  build  up  in there,  do  it again.  Finally  rinse it out  and thoroughly dry.  It would be a challenge to  cut  a tank  in  half to  clean  and weld it back together. Unless  you're very skilled and the tank isn't too  thin you'll  make  nothing but a useless mess out of it, A  welding shop would charge you more than the cost a  new tank  to  do they job  if you  could even  find one to take it  on.

  • Like 1
Posted

I think im going to go with a 'new' tank.  took a closer look at the inside and this is what i saw (i cut the tank in half so that you guys could see)

Picture0615191830951.jpg

so the inside of the tank is coated with some kind of thick paint that peeled off and is almost rusted through in some places.

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