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2005 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 snorkel kit & pipe


JIsaac12

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Sure I would be glad to help. Let us know a bit more information about your ATV. Is it auto or manual?

2" ABS pipe is usally used to snorkel the intakes. For the exhaust there is a mod to remove some of the restriction of the factory exhaust and then you can weld a flange on to run an exhaust snorkel. Because I have an aftermarket exhaust I used the flange on that. If you cange too much you will have to rejet but its no big deal.

Here are some pics of my 07 H1 auto to give you some ideas.

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I was looking for a pic of the exhaust snorkel but can't find one. If your intrested let me know and I will get some pics and measurements.

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with the 2 inch snorkels you do have to rejet the carb anyway. if im not mistaken.... I think 1.5 inch pipes you dont have to rejet

Yep that's correct. There are some exceptions but most cases if you are running fine a 1.5" air intake will keep you from rejetting if no exhaust work is done.

Also the belt intake and exhaust should never be under 2". This is only for the autos.

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  • 1 month later...

The best way to to figure out the jetting is to first tape over the intake so the opening is smaller and see if this fixes the problem. If this works then you need to rejet. If not you can have a leak somewhere in the carb intake. Another check would be to hold your hand over the intake, check for suction and see if the engine stalls. Is the 08 EFI or Carb? If its carb you have to rejet and if its EFI look for a powercommander or something similar. Feel free to PM me with questions because now that the weather is nice I am riding alot more then visiting the forums.

J I took the measurements from a post on highlifter from GWC a while ago but I kept dry fitting them until I got them the way I wanted. They are designed to be removed without having to remove the plastics. My Belt exhaust is up front some of the newer models are in the rear. But anyways here are some pics:

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As far as jetting goes I took mine to a shop with a dyno to tune it in. Stay away from the stealer they don't know alot about anything aftermarket and you might void your waranty if you have one.

Here are the dimensions from Highlifter:

Transmission Top

1 3" to 2" rubber reducer (Home Depot) off top of tranny

1 long 90, one end has no neck, then

1 piece of 4 1/4" 2 inch PVC to a 2" by 2" rubber union (to aid in removing the carb at a later date. Tip from GWC), then

1 piece of 4 1/2" long 2" PVC to a 45, then

1 piece of 2" long 2" PVC to another 45, then

1 piece of 5 1/2" long 2" PVC to short 90, then

Run straight up to desired height.

Transmission Bottom

Factory rubber boot to a 3" to 2" rubber reducer (Home Depot) off bottom of tranny. Used thin wall sewer drain 3" as the connector between the factory boot and reducer, then

2" long 2" PVC to long 90, then

1 3/4" long 2" PVC to short 90, then

3" long 2" PVC to long 90, then

1 1/2" long 2" PVC to a short 90, then

Run up to desired height

Engine

Factory rubber turn upside down and insert 1 long 90 with no neck into end, then

Run up to desired location.

Other Tips

Trimmed my plastic to make sure there was enough room to run up all pipes.

Used lots of zip ties (best invention onthe world)

Didn't get in a hurry and test fitted many times before I glued it together.

Bottom tranny will install as one piece, so no need to worry if you nee to remove it after gluing it together.

Might should consider treaded unions as the last piece so you can change out different snorkel heights.

Have to cut one bracket to make the engine snorkel fit.

Bent brake line bracket back to make everything fit easier.

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