So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike/ATV. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”. Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for. 1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color. 2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you. 3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running) 4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks. 5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck. 5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath. 7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart. 8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart. 9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material. 10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up. 11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it 12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike . All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems. I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence! I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!

Well I finally had to take the rear end apart on my 07 Rancher 420. Man it was nasty on the inside!!! I didn't take any pictures, too concentrated on the task I guess. The tools are retarded expensive, after I spent $280 to get the socket and puller for the pinion, because no-one makes them other than Honda. I figured out the pinion was shot due to the needle bearing being completely destroyed, it ground it down pretty bad. The bearing and seal set was cheap enough , $70 on ebay. I got the pinion on ebay too for $95, I took the nasty looking ring gear and sand blasted it, although a little pitted, still perfectly usable. I had to turn the sealing surfaces down about .015" to get them smooth enough to seal. Then for the icing on the cake. I found a brand new rear diff. assembly for $400 on ebay. Dang it!! Coulda just popped and swapped and saved $50. Oh well I have the tools to do honda rear ends now maybe I'll get my buddy who own's a CNC machine to copy them for me and I'll sell the other ones to get my money back.

Amazon has it and prob better off on eBay. Look for the oem label when buying. It’s worth it. You will rebuild the carb and set it up the bike will run great. Just take a look on YouTube on rebuilding if your not familiar with the work and take your time. Clean work area. I like to use a cheap white pillow case when doing a carburetor. Makes easy work when dealing with small parts on a white surface as well as seeing what comes out of the carb dirt wise . Any questions you have we will help. Post pics when your not sure and you will get pointed in the right direction.

does that mean I can let it smoke for a while? btw, that metal in the oil... idiot here solved the puzzle. I stripped the oil plug and caused the metal. I bet I even ran metal through there after I did it and caused more (minor?) damage. this is why I didn't mind buying a "junker" - it's like the old computer days when you didn't save often or backup to the almighty cloud - I'd break or lose something and have to rebuild.

and thank you for the pionters kent... and everyone... i have been known to miss things either by not knowing or just in a hurry. i would have to agree tuning of carbs is dieing. even with me. i been doing more efi building on stuff then carb anymore (mostly in car stuff)

Thanks for the lesson Kent. I'm happy that it runs, so I think I will add some weight to the front and just enjoy it. Wouldn't you know I chose one like this for my first machine! On the bright side, if I can master this, imagine how much I will enjoy myself when I upgrade! Thanks for all the help guys!

Nothing like a good history lesson. Well said @Kent Mettler Honesty looking at that bike it seems that it’s in very good shape and in tact. I would clean it up get it running and hold onto it.

Moved 😁 Congrats on the bayou! I would change that oil like @Frank Angerano mentioned , run it, and maybe change it again.

I think the difference between the products that harbor freight sells and other products is that their are more lemons. (this applies mainly to their badland winches and the predator engines) I think you should give them a second chance. you can get like 5 badland 2500 winches for the price of 1 warn 2500 winch...

Took 3 deer this year, time to start on hogs. Took 29 hogs last year. Even giving a lot away that’s still a lot of sausage...

Update ! Parts installed and all back together. Reused the old neutral safety switch since it was never bad in the first place. Bike runs great. Going to post a few more pics tomorrow of it all back together.

Don't forget the simplest things first. 1997 Fourtrax300FW was running fine, stopped it to split some firewood, wouldn't start back up, plenty of fuel. I pulled the sparkplug, zero spark. I read a couple forums which made it sound like the most common problem for no spark was the CDI. From a YouTube video, I followed the instructions and used the multi meter Ohm meter to check the resistance on the two coil leads and the reading was about 0.8 as expected for a good coil. Ordered a CDI, replaced it, still no spark, but when I was checking it I noticed I was getting a shock holding onto the plug wire. Used a multi meter to check the spark plug (from instructions on YouTube videos) and there was no continuity on the spark plug. Replaced the spark plug, turned the engine over with the plug grounded to the cylinder head, visible spark. Then reinserted the plug, and it started right up. The moral of the story, if you don't have a spark, you may want to check the plug, or replace it first. That was the cheapest option, and it would have saved me the time of pulling the front cargo carrier and plastic off to get to the CDI, and order and pay for the CDI. I hope this helps someone else down the line.