Leaderboard

Rod knock is usually, but not always, a duller sound than detonation ping. It is easier to tell in a multi-cylinder vehicle like car than in single or twin cylinder ones in ATVs. A loose rod or wrist pin can knock either under load, when backing off or if fairly bad even when idling but normally detonation only occurs under load. When it is happening in car, it is often described as "marbles" rattling around in the cylinders . Detonation is hard on everything and if not taken care of by backing off the timing advance a bit or by going to higher grade fuel can result in holes hammered or burnt into the pistons.

I sent you both a message. I think everyone’s point of view and suggestions are valuable. What’s not valuable is the extra banter that goes on from opposing views. All the banter does is increase the post count and discourage people from participating. The topic starter gets to pick the solution from posts made within the topic. That really should be it.

Most threads I'm on get really really long. Don't know what it is about me. That one on atvconnection is 12,699 replies long lol

No drama 97.. I'm just letting it rest..

I learned something new. Evidently they changed fuel pumps in the middle of 1998 because they list 2 of them: 19B11 is same number as the 1997 one. 19B02 must be the one I have.

Ok so I appreciate your help and everyone else on here (including you randy) but mech I am going to go over everything on the bike anyway, it is running much better after cleaning the pump. I need a new one but the one on my parts bike cleaned up nicer and was the same numbers so I swapped it. I need to get a new pump though. And I am meeting a guy tonight that might have a carb off same year bike. He bought for the Axles The pump was in terrible shape. This one's not much better but better still and by the improvement I think it may be a big part of the issue. It only Boggs at half throttle (possibly due to the corroded pump) which looked new on the outside but was very rusted inside. I can drive it around and it is still a little peppy but won't go over half throttle. If I hold it just under I can cruise around and go through the gears fine but more and it Boggs. I appologize there is a lot of stuff that happens between what I post so it can get confusing for you all. I am following what tips you guys give me but at the end of the day I am going to do what I feel is the best approach. When I try something or switch something I test it as well and check that there is an improvement or not if not I put the original back on and move on. I have fixed a few other quirks along the way It is the pump off my bike and it looks like crap so I am going to clean it up and get a new one

Good plan, I would check for numbers on the jets to make sure they are correct and get the emulsion tube out to clean it that was part#6 and go from there.

I have went back through all the posts, it took a minute or two, you have done quite a bit of work to the carb with no change, changed needle positions , cleaned carb a multitude of times, there should have at least been a noticable change, if not better, worse. Im not convinced this is a carb problem, but it could be. On rare occasions i have had a carb that no matter how many times i cleaned it just would never run exactly right, until i replaced the carb, still dont know what the problem was. To check it, do you have a carb from your parts bike you can clean put on to try. Just a thought. Also have you checked the compression, the engine sounds really good i dont expect to see a problem there but it might be worth checking. Im also thinking about the pickup coil i know its working and they usually either work or dont work, but because of your continued problem i might check that over really good again, connections, resistances and maybe even inspect for wires that may be loose and not keeping up with spark on the higher RPMs. Im just hashing everything over in my mind trying to think of options that might be causing this.

Well , I got it back together again. Everything is working so far still need to do a few things. Oil hoses, shift motor and gears, angle sensor,put gas tank back on, connect gas hose and hope it still cranks. It should haven’t changed anything with that. I took the front cover off to accesse everything easier. Will try to see if it works tomorrow. Got to put the left handle bar controller on bought a new one. Man I hope it works. Will let y’all know what happens. Thaknks for y’all’s help no matter what happens.

ok, I'll try to figure out the code this weekend thank you for your hel

Good explanation Dave. It's a bit hard to differentiate, and detonation can cause rod knock anyway. If you have a bad rod bearing it might make noise without the detonation though when the engine is under a load. If you have a manual shift bike you can test the rod bearings to a degree by putting the bike into gear with the brakes on hard, and keep your toe holding the shift lever down till you've given the engine enough revs to lock up the centrifugal clutch, then gently let your toe up till the shift clutch starts to engage and put a load on the engine. If the rod bearing is bad you might hear a knocking sound.