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Nothing beats a cigarette, Wish I still smoked The 02 sensor was bad (threads were stripped and it fit loosely in the housing but wasn't the real problem. Can disconnect both 02 sensors and no change. Throttle cable not really adjustable and IAC is integral to the throttle body and not serviceable.

It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.

You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.

Not much to the throttle body that you can access. There are only 2 little holes where are the good stuff is located that cannot be serviced. Just pulled out the entire throttle body and cleaned it (wasn't really dirty) but don't expect it to do much.

I will definitely consider voting for him….although I haven’t spent much time reading up on him. I won’t vote for a radical, even if they are saying things just to cater to a particular group to secure their vote. It’s either him or my vote will be not to vote. Kind of wish they would go ahead and throw Trump in jail and get it over with so we can move on because I would definitely vote for Haley. And yes, I realize that most of the stuff being thrown at Trump is political….but his behavior after the last election and the classified docs thing is a non starter for me. The classified docs thing is criminal. And yes, Biden is a criminal in that regard too, that just means they should be sharing a cell. Doesn’t mean they cancel each other out.

That is the problem with this machine. Everything is in the throttle body ($1,200+). Haven't found a vacuum leak.

Hi and thank you for accepting me . I am a crofter in the Scottish Highlands with a Honda TRX350D and a Yukon 150. I need help with the fuel pump on the Honda so will be pestering you all soon, cheers, semicolon😀

Update. After taking the carb back off and closer inspection I noticed that the throttle plate was opening to much before the main needle jet even moved any. I have attached a picture. The linkage arm that connects the two had so much play in it that one was opening and the other wasn't doing anything. You can see that I have the idle adjustment screw all the way in and it still wouldn't idle and the choke plunger didn't have any affect when trying to start it. Anyway, By putting a carb kit on it does nothing for this linkage problem so I went ahead and bought a new cheap carb. Put it on, works great. The air/fuel screw now works and the choke and idle screw actually does something. This type of thing can be a gremlin to find. Thanks Mech and Gwbarm.

good morning from finland

Start the bike and operate the choke.. You should be able to hear if it's working, or doing nothing. The choke only sucks fuel up when the throttle's closed. Soon as you open the throttle the vacuum drops in the choke circuit and it doesn't lift the fuel right to the top of the venturi where the discharge for the choke is. So it could be on and only go rich when you throttle off hard. It does seem unusual to have fluffy dry soot that fast. That's definitely rich though.. Oil looks wet black. You have got fresh fuel haven't you ? And a good grade ? The compression is probably meant to be nearer 175 Lb but that's warm and with a full open throttle and cranking at the right speed. If it comes up to it's 125 in the first couple of compression strokes it's a good sign. If it has to be cranked a lot and slowly creeps up with each compression stroke it's a bad sign. You could put a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole, give it a quick spin with the starter or pull start to distribute the oil, then do a compression check. If the oil raises the compression a lot it points to rings, not valves. Having a tight or leaking valve doesn't normally cause dry fluffy sooty spark plug. Leaking rings doesn't normally cause that sort of soot either.. Only fuel does that. Some bikes say what size the jets are in the parts manuals. You can look that up online, or in a service manual.

Thanks Gwbarm and Mech for your input. I also am having a hard time believing these plugs are fouling so quickly even if rich fuel. I did a compression check initially but the motor was cold and got a 125 reading. That seems to be good but I didn't check that when motor hot. This has a Mikuni carb on it and I put a new kit on it. Yes, I've read alot about those aftermarket kits not having the right size jet holes and things but, Damn, I have no way of telling if the hole sizes are correct. I'm almost thinking about putting the old jets and seats back in it. The choke on this is just a manual push/pull knob type. It's not automatic but it sounds that way when I start it. You don't think the intake valve not seating good would cause this do you? Like I said, it runs good.

Dry black soot sure sounds like too much fuel. The mixture adjustment doing nothing is always a sign of something wrong in a carb. Since it's running good, no mention of missing or hard start etc I'd doubt the ignition is at fault. Check it's got a reasonably fat blue spark. Ignition systems with resistor caps or leads can have a skinny spark, but it should be blue. If it looks yellow it's a bad sign. If the soot is only on the porcelain tip it might pay to try a hotter plug. If it lost it's spark suddenly it might have a wet plug, but it wouldn't have black soot. I'd make sure the fuel tap was good and not filling the sump with fuel. And if it's got a vacuum controlled tap check that isn't letting fuel into the vacuum line. Then I'd start looking at the mixture. Choke's going right off, check that first because the choke only works when the throttle's shut so they run ok with a stuck on choke, till you throttle off, then air-filter, intake piping isn't crushed or blocked(mouse nest), carb breather tubes, fuel tank breather. It might be that the richness is intermittent, or caused by heat or the time run. So check the carb breathers, and tank's not presurising. Then It'd be off with the carb for another look. Check the float height(can be done before pulling the carb off) and that it isn't sinking, check the idle mixture screw tip and the seat the screw goes into for damage, check the float needle seat is sealed to the body, the breather drillings are clear, all the drillings are clear, the jets are the right size, the slide needle is the right one and attached to the slide, the slide isn't sticking. Reassemble and check the idle mixture is responsive. If it isn't then there's still something wrong in the carb.

First good work on getting this back up to speed. You have done a lot of work. It does sound like you are running rich with your carb, but i dont think thats the problem, no way it could fowl the plug bad enough in 1/2 mile to not start. If it was burning oil the black would be shiny. I wouls start by checking the coil, make sure its in spec, you do have a carb problem if you see no change after adjusting the mixture screw. What type carb are you running and what are your settings and jet sizes. Does it smoke at all when running, and you might also check the compression after its warm and wont start, just for curiosity sake.

I just had a Suzuki lt 230 quad runner do pretty much the same thing. Riding and bouncing around stirred up junk in the gas tank. I flushed it and it was fine for a couple weeks. Started doing it again , so I flushed the tank again and got more junk out of it. This time I put a inline filter in it. No more issues.

I have actually, but I only buy ones with a high level of good reviews. I have found that on more than one occasion where I’ve had a part failure from something purchased on Amazon, I should have read the reviews!

I know this post is a couple months old, but have you had good luck with these carbs? I had bought a cheap one on Amazon awhile back for a mower, and it seemed ok for the short time I had it...🤷🏼‍♂️

I am glad to be here and join in on this community.

What's up everyone?!

Welcome, and good luck with your Bayou, let us know if we can help.

Howdy y'all. New here and excited to get a dead Bayou 220 back on the trails.

Yes thank you, I'm still learning to navigate my way around. Anyways thank you for your reply!!

Welcome to quadcrazy, there is a lot of info here.

Welcome, sounds like your in the right place, we love to help get projects back on the trails.

Hello, I just joined this forum I look forward to the knowledge of other people have. I got a vandalized 99 Suzuki LT F250 quadrunner, so anyone knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much!

Welcome to QuadCrazy!

Welcome to you as well!

Being new in the quad family it is nice to know there are places like this I can learn and get help

Hi all, I am new to this site and joined because I am always looking for help and ideas for my restoration projects I do. Also just enjoy riding around in my free time

Yeah, a couple of my friends have sportmans as well, they seem to be good quads. I helped one of them fix their speedometer after they ran it with a dead battery and blew up some components on the circuit board.

I think you will enjoy, the site, a lot of good information here, sportmans are nice , good luck with it.

Hi everybody!

Hi. I am new to this site. I am at Mariato, Panama and recently purchased and am rehabbing a 2010 Polaris Ranger Crew 800. The frame was eat up with rust so I have a local welder fabricating what needs to be replaced.

Hello, Just came across this forum, always nice to find one that is still active. I'm a farmer with more projects than time to do them, always seem to have some form of three wheeler or quad in the shop. I have a (probably bad) habit of buying old ATVs and ATCs that need work for cheap so I'm always looking for some kind of information or advice on how to keep these old beauties running.

Most of the above. They took the plastics off and looks like they disconnected every electronic cable in the front. They also took off the throttle cable and unit, took out the airbox and disconnected every vacuum tube in that area. Closest I can tell is they were going to remove the carb but never got to it (though I will probably need to since there is still fuel in the tank and probably in the carb that has been there for who knows how many years). Thankfully, the engine is still all together. I can turn it over using the hand pull after opening the vacuum release, so it turns and seems to have good vacuum (though I don't have a vacuum tester yet to see what it really is). The front brakes don't do anything but the back work well. I am needing to download the manual (once I reach 10 posts) to begin to really look at it. Hoping to get a battery attached to it soon so I can begin to see if there is any power to anything and begin figuring out the wiring to re-connect it.

@kp3004x4 - We'll need a lot of help, I'm sure! I've worked on bikes and small engines, but not on something that I haven't taken apart and was this complicated!

Hello name is not important but the game is,grew up in a shop, grandfather had,been working and messing around with stuff for some 50 years now. Worked as a Diesel mechanic for a while,then went to bmw, Volvo, Toyota,ect cars and trucks. After retired, as wife said I have to,I now work on small engines ect especially quads and bikes of all shapes and sizes,just am posting this to let it out that if I can help I'm here probably have done it or have seen it done before.

Yeah - it will be fun! Every tube and wire on it seems to be disconnected. But, it is a project for my son and myself so no matter what happens, it is worth it. Once I get the manual, we'll see if we can figure it all out.

Its always a challenge putting something back together that you didn't take apart, but with the repair manual and the helpful people on this site its very doable, im doing the same with a Yamaha.

Hi! New owner of a Suzuki King Quad 300 that needs a lot of work to get going. Former owner ripped it apart to try to fix something and never got it together again. Now, I'm going to see if I can get it going and have some fun with it. Steve

Welcome to all new members. There ar a lot of good peeps here and lots of info to be found. Enjoy your time at QC!

Welcome Adam. I joined recently and have found help with my 2004 Suzukin LT80. Lots of good resources.

Hello everyone. New here and trying to learn everything I can. Bought my first atv this weekend. 94 Polaris sportsman 400. It needs a little work but only has 540 miles! Excited to learn from you all. Adam

Welcome Larry, great place to learn, really good people , always willing to help and share experiences.

new here. just trying to learn some stuff

My wife said the same but about 2!!!!!

Thanks for the warm welcome, Gwbarm. Happy to be here! My fleet at present is as follows: 2000 Kodiak 400 - runs, good condition 2005 Predator 90 - runs, great condition 1985 LT230GE - project 1987 Trail Boss 250 - project 1998 Sportsman 6x6 - project 1999 ranger 6x6 - project