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Trump has done more good for America than all the previous presidents since Ronald Regan. The Democratic party is a complete disgrace and embarrassment to America....

I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

I mostly use my quad for work, carrying myself and equipment to places on the land, and it's steep hilly land so a lot of it turns into a bit of an adventure, but when my sons were young we made a mud hole with a skid pan next to it and we had so much fun and so many laughs over there. Mud is good !

I just rebuilt a 96 Kodiak carb for a customer which is almost identical. Did you remove the plastic center block the slide glides on? There is an O-ring in there that gets deteriorated and won't allow the venturi pull the correct amount of fuel up from the jets. The All Balls Racing kit I used came with that O-ring. Also did you adjust the linkage arm so when the buttery starts to open it's lifting the slide at the same time?

You've got the slide needle "lifted to the top slot" ? I hope you mean you have the needle lifted, which would be with the clip in the lowest groove on the needle. You want the needle raised, not lowered.. Have you completely stripped and checked the carb right over, checked every jet and O ring is in there, and that they seem to be about the right sizes/in the right proportions between the fuel jet and it's corresponding air jet, that the float level is right, and that plenty of fuel is getting in through the float needle ? It will be either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much air.. If you put your hand across the back of the carb and only let a bit of air in between your fingers, will it rev up then ? The genuine carbs nearly always run better than any after=market one. I'd try fixing the old one. I've got the idle mixture screws out before by drilling them. First though, most of the screws are in a sort of aluminium tube, and it's often just a thin walled tube in part. Often at the front side of the screw's tube there is a thin walled bit. If you gently tap that bit, as much as is possible, with a punch and tiny hammer, before you drill the screw out, you can spread the metal and expand the hole slightly. Because the screw is only fat where the threads are, you can expand most of the metal that's around the threads. If you look at a mixture screw you'll see the threads only go down a certain way before the needle starts, and the spring is. That's the part that's seized and we can tap the tube around quite a bit of that. When/if you do drill, don't drill so deep that the drill hits the spring. Drill it first with a very tiny drill and stop if it's not exactly in the center. If it's off center, drill that shallow drilling out with a slightly larger drill so that you can then go back to the smaller drill again and drill at an angle with it to correct the centering. Once the tiny drill is getting across to the center position you enlarge the holes and then go back to the tiny one again. Keep doing that. By putting the tiny drill down a slightly larger hole you can realign things. Once you have a hole going down to the right depth and in the center then you drill it out to a size that will just leave a thin wall of threads and then use an easy-out or a screwdriver driven gently in to wind the weakened screw out. The screws are soft and drill easy. Once the center is out of them they loose their grip in the hole. Oh.. It normally only effects them at revs, but a blocked exhaust won't let it suck air in, and will give a lot of back pressure and so make it spit out the carb. There's a difference though between spitting back out the carb, and backfiring back out the carb. Spitting is back pressure, and backfiring is mainly caused by lean mixture.

Hey all, from SW Virginia here. I just picked up a '01 Bombardier Quest 650 on the cheap (seller couldn't get it to start). After correctly plumbing the fuel pump (new pump the prior owner installed but had the hoses going backwards lol) and cleaning the carb and fuel tank, repaired all the batt - and batt+ connections she lives!! I had swore to the wife unit I wouldn't be dragging another "project" home but I couldn't pass it up, it had new tires, new starter, new fuel pump and low hrs. All's good after she took it for a ride! 😆 It rides like a tank, very stable and tons of power.

Mine told me one day I dont know why a grown A## man needs 3 four wheelers, i thought about it for a couple of seconds and said you are right. Thats all they want is to be right.

"Just one more..." is the little white lie that keeps on giving.

GEORGIA!!

I sent you both a message. I think everyone’s point of view and suggestions are valuable. What’s not valuable is the extra banter that goes on from opposing views. All the banter does is increase the post count and discourage people from participating. The topic starter gets to pick the solution from posts made within the topic. That really should be it.

No that would be the Democratic supports who thinks crazy Joe is doing a wonderful job while running this country into the ground....

We ride the dunes in Oregon, including Florence, Winchester Bay, Coos Bay, Sand Lake, and the Christmas valley Sand dunes, as part of the Spartan Racing team. We travel frequently and record all of our riding adventures. You may find our films on YouTube at SpartanRacing43's Channel polaris rzr accessories. Check them out and let us know what you think. Please be honest if you don't like them and let us know. We also welcome any suggestions on how to make them better. Almost every weekend, we arrange outings and are constantly seeking for more individuals to ride with. You may visit the website at Localheroesnw.com to learn more about us and Local Heroes North West.

It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.

You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

Not sure about the dial thingy but it should have a knurled thumbscrew on the side somewhere to adjust the ilde speed, and the idle mixture screw is at the front underneath and hidden up a tube. Did you check the rubber inlet manifold wasn't split, or that it doesn't have an air leak somewhere ? Tight valves can make them hard to start and not idle well too.

What ever it is, it's always best to try adjusting the mixture first because that is (even the hard to get at adjusters), the easiest thing to try. It checks the mixture screw is changing the mixture enough too, which is a good thing to check. If winding the screw a full turn each way didn't have a dramatic effect, then it would be a guide/helpful in the diagnosis.

Hi, I have been around everything with a motor since I was little, and finally purchased more to get my husband, and kids involved. I have 4 quads I will be searching around for information on. I have two 2002 Suzuki LT80K quads, a 1997 Yamaha Timberwolf 250, and a 1996 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I have had different ones throughout the years, and plan on buying another Yamaha Banshee. I plan on trying to learn more about all of them, so I can customize some of them. I know nothing about them besides how to race them, my dad always took care of the rest, but figured it was time for me to learn.

Welcome! Good place to learn.

I'd wriggle all the wires as a first step. If it is a chafed insulation and you disturb it and move it so it's not touching anymore it can be the real mongrel thing trying to find it after that and you end up with an ongoing and intermittent problem. If it's a faulty component it will always be faulty.. plenty of time to find that.

That filter looks like mine and just fine to me.. but I'd oil those pliers !!

I think it will be flooding. Some carbs that drain screw drains the water from the bottom of the bowl and out that nipple, but the nipple is actually attached to a brass tube in the bowl that goes up high and drains fuel if it gets too high.. Or to explain it differently, the nipple goes to a tall overflow tube, and the drain screw just lets fuel bypass the top of the overflow and go straight into the tube from the bottom. Hope that makes sense. And yeah, the fluctuating speed and all could definitely be caused by changing float level.. Once you have it off then you can give it a good clean and know it's good. I'd do it. And.. I take heaps of carbs apart, clean them and put them together again without changing a single part, and they are all good. The only problem is if the rubber gasket between the bowl and body is old and shrunk or swollen and doesn't want to stay in it's groove when it's time to put it back together.. Then I fit it all carefully all the way around holding it down with a 25 thou feeler gauge to hold it flat and in the groove till I've pressed the bowl into place, then I slip the feeler out. Everything else goes back together easy. Take every brass bit out and clean them. Clean the tiny holes in the sides of the emulsion tube the main jet screws into and that the slide needle drops down into. Take the float needle seat out and check the O ring or gasket that seals between it and the body. People seem to assume it's only the seat and needle that play up and leave the seat in.. Bad plan.

You are trying to get the screws out, the ones that hold the float bowl on ? Get an impact driver bit, it's called a No2, and tap it with a small hammer before you try turning it, that seats the driver and loosens the threads, then use the impact driver if you have one, or use a spanner on the bit while you push the bit down hard. If all else fails use channel lock pliers and get them out or cut a slot and use a conventional screwdriver. The screws are just a common metric thread. I'm pretty sure they will be four mill. An engineering supply or auto supply shop should have a plastic box with a range of metric bolts that will do the job, they sell them individually, or a bike shop will have some laying around probably. Four mill is the outside diameter, and what they get described as..

I've done that before. It's what I normally recommend.. Swap every brass bit and the slide needle from the oem to the aftermarket and they aftermarket often runs good. There are only a couple of reasons for biffing the oem, badly worn slide or throttle spindle, or seized idle mixture screw(which is I think the most common problem). And the slides have to be pretty worn to be a problem. I suppose you have checked the throttle cable has free play Bobby ? As Gw says, look through the carb and make sure the throttle plate is closed right off. And check the choke is going right off. The choke plungers can be different designs in after market. Some have a needle and some are flat ended.

You might check to make sure the throttle plate is going all the way back and not binding open slightly. Other than that good reasearch i have never tried using OEM parts in a chinese carb, really didnt think they would work.

That sounds like a good plan definately the best way. I dont like using easyouts either and i think the smallest one would still be too big.

Yeah Gw's right about using the easy-out. If you drill it out too much the easy-out will spread the screw if it's tight and make things worse. Drill it a bit and then try the easy-out. Then if it doesn't turn drill it further. As long as you get the hole real well centered you can drill them fairly thin. I prefer to use an old fashioned egg-beater drill because it's slow and delicate drilling. Heat on the aluminium does help as well.. I've found the most effective part of it though is tapping the outside of that aluminium tube, and if you have thin lube down the hole, the tapping helps it work down the threads even if you don't spread the metal to enlarge the hole. Lube and tap it then drill it, then use an easy-out, or drive a small steel jewelers screwdriver into the hole.. The screwdriver won't spread the hole as much as the easy-out.. if you choose the right size drill and screwdriver.

I would try everything possible to get it out, before drilling, that is a tiny screw and would be easy to get into the threads and then the carburetor is ruined. I would soak it completely in a combo mixture of carb cleaner and penetrating oil, and use heat if there is no head left on the screw at all and it down in the hole, then you have to drill a small hole and use the smallest ease out and it still may be too big, i dont like using easeouts but are sometimes necessary.

Jacinda kept the Māori in check, closing your little island island off from outsiders was brilliant, we tried that here and you called us racist. You know everything, google is your friend, look up how the process goes. I'm neither left or right and not looking to sit here and read your post, stop acting like you are serious. I see you people every day clowning on USA. Thank you.

There’s a war starting right now in the Middle East and it’s on Biden’s watch. Ukraine has been going on for two years and we are fighting Russia with our military support. There were no wars like this during Trumps first term. Funny how Putin invaded Crimea during Obama and Kiev/Ukraine during Biden…

I don’t like bullies either but you need strength at the helm of the US presidency. Biden is very weak looking, to everyone. He’s frail, forgetful, and sad to watch. It’s just too hard to present him as competent. Everyone sees it, even his own party. No matter how you slice it, there is no arguing that Trump’s policies were better for the country, border, business (small and large) and most American wallets. I think a good portion of the country will vote on the border and economy. The border is a huge issue. The price of groceries is a huge issue. Price of living has gone up year over year. The Biden presidency has only raised the cost to live, allowed for more conflict in the world, and allowed for millions to come into the country undocumented. These are lasting effects on generations to come. It’s really a shame. They just focus on the wrong things. Biden needs to do something fast around the border and the cost of living, if he hopes to get re-elected.

Yup. Gw's a treasure..

Hello everyone, I'm excited to join the forum today! My name's Noah and I am 30 years old. I look forward to gaining new knowledge, sharing my experience and benefiting from members' insightful advice. Thank you in advance for the welcome.

I have come to this conclusion because if you look at the parts diagram the steering, a-arms, and knuckles are all the same part numbers even up to the foreman and rubicons the only difference is they’re is a “puck” instead of the cv axle as seen in this picture (it’s number 8 that I’m talking about)

I know this post is a couple months old, but have you had good luck with these carbs? I had bought a cheap one on Amazon awhile back for a mower, and it seemed ok for the short time I had it...🤷🏼‍♂️

Ahh! Annoying safety feature.

hi keithandmoola joined today. thank you. I drive a Suzuki 185 1984version. Also have four Suzuki 125s. Two of them are drivable and two are in pieces to make one more someday in the future. i enjoy not having to get Minnesota tabs every year anymore and since they are out at the old farmstead all winter its handy not having to deal with batteries . They areold and require repairs so thats the main reason i joined. I have some manuals but nothing better than a place to pose problems and questions. Started with one twenty years ago and added the others as grandkids got big enough to ride and the wheelers are small enough that roll overs arent deadly.

It's been a long time since I have used a forum, I was the admin of one for quite a few years, had thousands of daily active members, with lots of crazy posts and spammers, so I salute the admins. Anyway, just waving my greasy hands, Hopefully I can help others out.

Yeah the plunger needs drawing out for choke, and they only work at idle, and it needs to be a slow idle, with the butterfly or slide closed right down. They draw extra air and fuel around past the butterfly or slide and that doesn't work unless the throttle is closed off .

The plunger should be out to choke, it is more of an enricher more than a true choke.

We always used ATVs - 90s Polaris Sportsmans - to get to our camp in the bush. Growing up those were my favorite memories. Now I'm a mechanical engineer and I've been rebuilding a lot of the machines we used when I was younger. It's been great to address all the issues. I have no interest in mud bogging and crazy new machines, I really see ATVs as work machines to achieve a greater goal.

On the slightly newer 250 models(88 one) it earths through the reverse switch then the neutral switch.. They are in series..

Welcome and good wrenching, sounds like a fun project. Its always interesting picking up where others left off.

Thanks guys, I do like this site. A lot of good information.

Buy a bigger bit of bare land somewhere cheap and get a caravan, build an illegal shed and start living. Practical skills go well in the country.. Good luck.

I'm more worried that China and America have just come to an agreement that climate change is real.. After everyone else has been saying it for years, and now they decide it's bad, and they need to do something.. I'm worried what the two of them will decide is needed to protect them from this "new" threat, and who's going to pay for their sudden concern..

I live in SW Michigan and admittedly am a little late in joining a forum. Currently I own a 2000 Yamaha 250 Bear Tracker which I bought brand new way back in 2000. Over the years I've taken it to off road parks such as Badlands in Indiana and a place near me called "Kids in the mud. For the last five years the machine has been sitting but lately, I've caught the "bug" again and have been in the process of riding again. I'm also seriously looking at UTV's so my wife and I can both ride, but more on that later. At the time I bought the ATV,my budget only permitted a 250cc machine. People were telling me "You'll be sorry if you buy a 2-wheel drive machine." Since then, I've never had any problems except in heavy wet snow. Anyway, I'm happy to be here and am looking forward to maintenance tips and what others are saying about UTV's

I'm jobles09, or Jay for short. New to the forum. I'm here cause I'm looking for wiring diagrams for my 1988 suzuki quadrunner 250 4x4. Got it from a friend. Didn't run when I got it. Has been flawless for over a year. Took it on the trail fist time, and it developed a short in the neutral / staring system. That's why I'm here. 4 wheeler is told to just got buy this info. Would like to find a service manual if it was still possible. Anyhow 👋. Cant wait to see the responses.

Hello im From Poland i have Kawasaki ATV greetings

I'm from Casper Wy and my neighbor gave me an abandoned 1995 Polaris magnum 425 4X4 that's been sitting outside for at least 5 years. It's been Bubba'd quite a bit and I'm just trying to get it going again. Would be a great utility quad for my property.