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Trump has done more good for America than all the previous presidents since Ronald Regan. The Democratic party is a complete disgrace and embarrassment to America....

I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

I mostly use my quad for work, carrying myself and equipment to places on the land, and it's steep hilly land so a lot of it turns into a bit of an adventure, but when my sons were young we made a mud hole with a skid pan next to it and we had so much fun and so many laughs over there. Mud is good !

I just rebuilt a 96 Kodiak carb for a customer which is almost identical. Did you remove the plastic center block the slide glides on? There is an O-ring in there that gets deteriorated and won't allow the venturi pull the correct amount of fuel up from the jets. The All Balls Racing kit I used came with that O-ring. Also did you adjust the linkage arm so when the buttery starts to open it's lifting the slide at the same time?

You've got the slide needle "lifted to the top slot" ? I hope you mean you have the needle lifted, which would be with the clip in the lowest groove on the needle. You want the needle raised, not lowered.. Have you completely stripped and checked the carb right over, checked every jet and O ring is in there, and that they seem to be about the right sizes/in the right proportions between the fuel jet and it's corresponding air jet, that the float level is right, and that plenty of fuel is getting in through the float needle ? It will be either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much air.. If you put your hand across the back of the carb and only let a bit of air in between your fingers, will it rev up then ? The genuine carbs nearly always run better than any after=market one. I'd try fixing the old one. I've got the idle mixture screws out before by drilling them. First though, most of the screws are in a sort of aluminium tube, and it's often just a thin walled tube in part. Often at the front side of the screw's tube there is a thin walled bit. If you gently tap that bit, as much as is possible, with a punch and tiny hammer, before you drill the screw out, you can spread the metal and expand the hole slightly. Because the screw is only fat where the threads are, you can expand most of the metal that's around the threads. If you look at a mixture screw you'll see the threads only go down a certain way before the needle starts, and the spring is. That's the part that's seized and we can tap the tube around quite a bit of that. When/if you do drill, don't drill so deep that the drill hits the spring. Drill it first with a very tiny drill and stop if it's not exactly in the center. If it's off center, drill that shallow drilling out with a slightly larger drill so that you can then go back to the smaller drill again and drill at an angle with it to correct the centering. Once the tiny drill is getting across to the center position you enlarge the holes and then go back to the tiny one again. Keep doing that. By putting the tiny drill down a slightly larger hole you can realign things. Once you have a hole going down to the right depth and in the center then you drill it out to a size that will just leave a thin wall of threads and then use an easy-out or a screwdriver driven gently in to wind the weakened screw out. The screws are soft and drill easy. Once the center is out of them they loose their grip in the hole. Oh.. It normally only effects them at revs, but a blocked exhaust won't let it suck air in, and will give a lot of back pressure and so make it spit out the carb. There's a difference though between spitting back out the carb, and backfiring back out the carb. Spitting is back pressure, and backfiring is mainly caused by lean mixture.

Hey all, from SW Virginia here. I just picked up a '01 Bombardier Quest 650 on the cheap (seller couldn't get it to start). After correctly plumbing the fuel pump (new pump the prior owner installed but had the hoses going backwards lol) and cleaning the carb and fuel tank, repaired all the batt - and batt+ connections she lives!! I had swore to the wife unit I wouldn't be dragging another "project" home but I couldn't pass it up, it had new tires, new starter, new fuel pump and low hrs. All's good after she took it for a ride! 😆 It rides like a tank, very stable and tons of power.

Mine told me one day I dont know why a grown A## man needs 3 four wheelers, i thought about it for a couple of seconds and said you are right. Thats all they want is to be right.

"Just one more..." is the little white lie that keeps on giving.

GEORGIA!!

I sent you both a message. I think everyone’s point of view and suggestions are valuable. What’s not valuable is the extra banter that goes on from opposing views. All the banter does is increase the post count and discourage people from participating. The topic starter gets to pick the solution from posts made within the topic. That really should be it.

No that would be the Democratic supports who thinks crazy Joe is doing a wonderful job while running this country into the ground....

Nothing beats a cigarette, Wish I still smoked The 02 sensor was bad (threads were stripped and it fit loosely in the housing but wasn't the real problem. Can disconnect both 02 sensors and no change. Throttle cable not really adjustable and IAC is integral to the throttle body and not serviceable.

What ever it is, it's always best to try adjusting the mixture first because that is (even the hard to get at adjusters), the easiest thing to try. It checks the mixture screw is changing the mixture enough too, which is a good thing to check. If winding the screw a full turn each way didn't have a dramatic effect, then it would be a guide/helpful in the diagnosis.

I'd wriggle all the wires as a first step. If it is a chafed insulation and you disturb it and move it so it's not touching anymore it can be the real mongrel thing trying to find it after that and you end up with an ongoing and intermittent problem. If it's a faulty component it will always be faulty.. plenty of time to find that.

Some models the nuts holding the sprocket on are on captive bolts, not studs. They look similar to what cars have for the wheel nuts. Are you sure they are studs ? If they are the captive bolts they might just knock out with a hammer and the new ones get drawn back in with a nut and some improvised spacer.

I have had good luck with Caltric parts as well, but i havent used one of their carbs.

I think it will be flooding. Some carbs that drain screw drains the water from the bottom of the bowl and out that nipple, but the nipple is actually attached to a brass tube in the bowl that goes up high and drains fuel if it gets too high.. Or to explain it differently, the nipple goes to a tall overflow tube, and the drain screw just lets fuel bypass the top of the overflow and go straight into the tube from the bottom. Hope that makes sense. And yeah, the fluctuating speed and all could definitely be caused by changing float level.. Once you have it off then you can give it a good clean and know it's good. I'd do it. And.. I take heaps of carbs apart, clean them and put them together again without changing a single part, and they are all good. The only problem is if the rubber gasket between the bowl and body is old and shrunk or swollen and doesn't want to stay in it's groove when it's time to put it back together.. Then I fit it all carefully all the way around holding it down with a 25 thou feeler gauge to hold it flat and in the groove till I've pressed the bowl into place, then I slip the feeler out. Everything else goes back together easy. Take every brass bit out and clean them. Clean the tiny holes in the sides of the emulsion tube the main jet screws into and that the slide needle drops down into. Take the float needle seat out and check the O ring or gasket that seals between it and the body. People seem to assume it's only the seat and needle that play up and leave the seat in.. Bad plan.

There are several overlapping transition points in those carbs. Under the butterfly when it's closed there are two holes in the venturi. One hole's exposed to full vacuum and the one nearer the air-cleaner end is at close to atmosphere when they are at a slow idle. Both holes are connected. At idle the idle jet and idle air jet supply fuel/air mix to the idle mixture screw. The screw controls how much of that fuel/air mix gets mixed with the other air, the air coming in through the discharge hole under the slide that's nearer the air cleaner. The highly diluted fuel/air mixture then gets discharged through the discharge hole nearer the engine. Then, as the slide rises a little,fuel starts to get drawn out of both those holes which reduces the amount of air being drawn in through the air cleaner side hole, the air that was diluting the idle mixture, and so it makes that mixture slightly richer, and discharges it out of both holes so it really does supply a heap more fuel. That's the first of the transition points. That transition from one discharge hole to two prevents stumbling just off idle. If we adjust the mixture with the slide too high then fuel is getting discharged through both holes and we have to wind the mixture screw in too far to compensate for that, which then causes a stumble/flat spot when we d try to open the throttle. It's important when adjusting the mixture that we have the slide down as far as possible. Somewhere in that system is probably where your problem lays. The other transition points are controlled by, first the slide cut away, and then the emulsion tube's holes and the capacity of fuel in the drilling the emulsion tube is in. It's important to clean the tiny holes in the emulsion tubes side, and the drilling it goes in if it has crud in it reducing it's capacity for fuel. The tiny holes in the emulsion tube start off being covered with fuel at low throttle settings and that fuel is drawn into the tube along with fuel from the main jet and discharged past the slide needle, but as the fuel consumption increases with throttle opening the drilling starts to empty and more of the tiny holes are exposed allowing air to be drawn through them diluting the mixture being discharged out past the slide needle. Eventually the main jet is controlling the amount of fuel being drawn in and the tiny holes are mixing air into that fuel so that the fuel being discharged past the slide needle is diluted. That process gives a rich mixture as we open the throttle, but then leans it after a short time when the drilling for the emulsion tube is emptied. The overall effect is similar to an accelerator pump. At 1/8 throttle it's probably not transitioning from one hole to two holes under the butterfly. Set the idle speed as low as it can be and keep adjusting the mixture till it's ticking over nice and slow on the idle speed screw, and at the best mixture point, neither too rich or too lean. Then use the idle speed screw to bring the idle speed up to what it's meant to be. Try not to adjust the idle mixture after that. If the jets and the slide cut-away is right, and the float level is right, the two discharge holes should work as an enrichener as you start to open the throttle.

I've done that before. It's what I normally recommend.. Swap every brass bit and the slide needle from the oem to the aftermarket and they aftermarket often runs good. There are only a couple of reasons for biffing the oem, badly worn slide or throttle spindle, or seized idle mixture screw(which is I think the most common problem). And the slides have to be pretty worn to be a problem. I suppose you have checked the throttle cable has free play Bobby ? As Gw says, look through the carb and make sure the throttle plate is closed right off. And check the choke is going right off. The choke plungers can be different designs in after market. Some have a needle and some are flat ended.

The idle fuel jet has to have the right size air jet to go with it, and they both have to be suitable for the mixture adjusting screw, which can have different diameter and taper needles, and, the main and it's air jet have to be matched and suit the slide, slide needle and discharge/emulsion tube, and both those different fuel ranges, idle and main, both have to be suitable/matched for one other. The low speed air and fuel jets have to suit the air and fuel main jets. And whole carbs, even when everything is set up and mixes well with no flat spots or wasted fuel, needs to matched to the type of engine it's fitted to. Road bike carbs are set up different to work bikes or scramblers. Even twin cam cam engines are different set up to the same engine with a single cam, not because of the cam specifically, but because of the different power band they've used the twin cam or single cam to achieve. It is best to stick with what the manufacturer has gone to so much trouble sorting out for us. Oh yeah. I don't think the ignition timing will be out either.. I was just saying it does make the plugs burn whiter.

Being too advanced with the ignition timing, or having too hotter plug will beoth make the porclain white, but the spitting backfiring out the inlet does sound like lean. Try your hand across the inlet. Oh, and check the air jets are still in the back of the carb. There should be two brass jets you can see right where the air-cleaner fits on.

T for top and F for firing.

Jacinda kept the Māori in check, closing your little island island off from outsiders was brilliant, we tried that here and you called us racist. You know everything, google is your friend, look up how the process goes. I'm neither left or right and not looking to sit here and read your post, stop acting like you are serious. I see you people every day clowning on USA. Thank you.

Put the battery on a charger to charge it right up.. If it was left for a couple of months without a battery maintainer on it the charge on it could have been very low and a 20 minute charge from the quad's system would not likely bring it to anywhere near a full charge. I just did a search on your battery and the recommended battery for your quad. Your battery is woefully inadequate for that machine. It is rated for 120 cold cranking amps and likely only 9 amp hours reserve. Specs for your quad calls for a battery with 210 CCA and 14 Ah reserve. The little battery in your scrambler might start ok when the battery is full charged and in warm weather , but in the cold it is not likely going to do well even if fully charged.

There’s a war starting right now in the Middle East and it’s on Biden’s watch. Ukraine has been going on for two years and we are fighting Russia with our military support. There were no wars like this during Trumps first term. Funny how Putin invaded Crimea during Obama and Kiev/Ukraine during Biden…

I’m confused, did we have Ukraine, Israel, Houthis/Iran, and the Mexican border crisis during the Trump presidency? The American president taking a conciliatory approach affects the whole world and makes us weak. That’s why this is all happening. It looks to me like Biden is more concerned about his resting and story time. The guy has aged so much that it’s hard to watch his mannerisms and fumbles. World leaders see this as well and take advantage of the presidential term by who’s in it.

I have been an avid motorcyclist since I was big enough to get on one. Street bikes were my forte. My doctor told me that due to an illness I had last winter that my bike riding days are done. This pretty much crushed me. A friend that was doing some work around the house( He was being paid ) heard me telling my wife how bad I was feeling. My wife said how about a trike ,would that be alright. said yeah anything I don't have to balance. My friend at this point stated he had an aty that was sitting for years and he would trade me for one of my guitars( I have 14 both electric and acoustic ) He stated it need work but I love a challenge so at the age of 78 I have my first quad.. After a carb and battery it started right up. I live on a dirt road so Told the wife to hope on and away we went. After just a short ride I am hooked.

Hello everyone, I'm excited to join the forum today! My name's Noah and I am 30 years old. I look forward to gaining new knowledge, sharing my experience and benefiting from members' insightful advice. Thank you in advance for the welcome.

I have actually, but I only buy ones with a high level of good reviews. I have found that on more than one occasion where I’ve had a part failure from something purchased on Amazon, I should have read the reviews!

Ahh! Annoying safety feature.

ATV riders get a bad rep for tearing up the land making a muddy mess noisy and dangerous riding, all that is fun, but i try to keep it at a bay if im on public land, you have other riders too be curtious around, i save my foolish riding for my own land.

hi keithandmoola joined today. thank you. I drive a Suzuki 185 1984version. Also have four Suzuki 125s. Two of them are drivable and two are in pieces to make one more someday in the future. i enjoy not having to get Minnesota tabs every year anymore and since they are out at the old farmstead all winter its handy not having to deal with batteries . They areold and require repairs so thats the main reason i joined. I have some manuals but nothing better than a place to pose problems and questions. Started with one twenty years ago and added the others as grandkids got big enough to ride and the wheelers are small enough that roll overs arent deadly.

Hello from Romania! Can't believe this topic is from 2009 .... didn't see it till now. I don't own a quad till now... just love to fix them 😁 and fund a lot of help here, great people here from allover the world 🌎🌍.

Hey all, Just picked up two dead mid-90's Kawasaki Bayou 220s for $250. Already have one running on starting fluid and it sounds healthier than expected. Moving onto a thorough carb cleaning and refurb of the brakes next. These are our first ATVs and we're excited to make family memories on simple, approachable machines on our newly acquired land. In case anyone reads this, is it worth rushing to 10 posts here to get the Bayou 220 FSM if I already have a Bayou 250 FSM? Thanks, Matt

I have noticed a difference between the aftermarket choke plunger and the OEM plunger so if an aftermarket carb has been installed the new plunger that comes with the carb needs to be installed along with it.

It is a drum brake but it has a twin piston caliper, it sounds like the caliper is hanging up, i would pull it off lube it up a bit and see if that helps, the pistons may be sticking also, go ahead and check that out while you have it off, or you could replace it, thats what i did , they are fairly cheap, actually cheaper than the OEM kit, and i really didnt want to mess around rebuilding it.

They say that arctic cat use suzuki engines, and a lot of their air-boxes look like suzuki too.. Just saying !

Rod knock is usually, but not always, a duller sound than detonation ping. It is easier to tell in a multi-cylinder vehicle like car than in single or twin cylinder ones in ATVs. A loose rod or wrist pin can knock either under load, when backing off or if fairly bad even when idling but normally detonation only occurs under load. When it is happening in car, it is often described as "marbles" rattling around in the cylinders . Detonation is hard on everything and if not taken care of by backing off the timing advance a bit or by going to higher grade fuel can result in holes hammered or burnt into the pistons.

Jim.. Another good sideline if you move to the country, and if they have forestry over there, is buying and fixing chainsaws. One of my sons buys husky or stihl chainsaws, but only the big ones the forestry guys use. The big ones are more repairable and sell easy. And, forestry guys throw their old chainsaws in a shed and leave them there. My son advertise he'll buy any of the three biggest models of either make, going or not, or any parts. Then he tells them he'll be at some place convenient and give them a fair price for whatever they have. Guys turn up with fish bins full of chainsaws, like three plus spares. He just has a quick look and offers them $100 or so and they are happy. He can get four sellers at a time and drops off saws while he's on the road. He goes home and sits up late(in his kitchen with the fire going), and builds one at least the very first night, then sorts parts needed for another.. These saws sell for $600 or a grand and he has no problem selling them.

That's the one Kp. I did it thirty odd years ago and had a family. The boys grew and roamed the land like hucklberry, then they left, got jobs, set up a beekeeping partnership for a sideline to their jobs, then both one after another decided they wanted families, so the two of them chipped in and bought a huge caravan and dragged it onsite over the ridge. Elder and wife lived in it till they built a small home and then they started a family. They dragged the caravan back down off one hill, down the road a way and back up onto the land for younger who set about building a small home. We've got about a third each of sixty acres, separated by a ridge and a small stream/swamp. Because they are financial secure daughter in law has been able to buy a small dairy down the road five minutes away, and son minds the daughters and takes care of all the light beekeeping duties and I go along to entertain the girls. The other one helps in the weekends with the harvest and stuff and we all have a fantastic life. You do it Jim.. Find several income streams because I don't think you will make it just fixing or trading quads, but if you are happy to live simple, without much money, and break a few rules building etc.. it can be done.. Oh, and by the way. I'd been living on a small rough old yacht till friends invited mt to build a cabin on their place inland where I'd been mechanicing, and I owned a scrambler, my wife had a car and about four grand.. that was thirty five years ago. We sold the yacht, scrambler and car and borrowed a few grand off family. It was about four years between wife findng me and saying she wanted kids, till we had them once we'd repaid the money and built our small core of a home.

I traded two quads and 100 dollars for a old 1976 ford school bus I'm fixing it up on side for a getaway look out there have seen many that you can get cheap and could live in it until you get something lots of property in the woods and mostly if people know you can work on them they will come, install solar on that bad boy and you got something. Good luck

I'm more worried that China and America have just come to an agreement that climate change is real.. After everyone else has been saying it for years, and now they decide it's bad, and they need to do something.. I'm worried what the two of them will decide is needed to protect them from this "new" threat, and who's going to pay for their sudden concern..

Nothing in those petulant and irrational arguments change the fact that self mutilation does not change your gender. On a chemical level, your using suppresive drugs to . . change nothing. just prevent NATURAL biological processes from occuring. On a neurological level transgenderism fails as well. Been pretty well substantiated for quite awhile that men and women respond differently neurologically as well. Physically, just on the basis of skeletal structure alone no MALE body is capable of giving Natural Childbirth. STOP ranting insanity about promoting child abuse, self mutilation and scarification (on several levels) and empowering self destructive mental illnesses with all your talk about inclusivity and love. Love isnt rife with lies and Delusion. and for christ's sake quit trying to rationalize your twisted agenda before jesus whips off a Flip Flop and goes full temple trashing.

Spoken like a true rebel.. Onya Ulf.. couldn't agree more.

Hello everyone, it's been a while since I was here last. I finally found the correct used CDI on eBay for $315. After plugging it in, the 4-wheeler runs good again. Success! The only thing I don't understand is why the original CDI got burnt by connecting the battery terminal back 3 times while it was on. You would think it would blow a fuse first!

Newbi, if you’re going to ride atv’s sooner or later you’ll have to learn to work them. I’m no expert but will share what I know with you. Just ask and if I know am willing to help out. Welcome to the forum

I'm jobles09, or Jay for short. New to the forum. I'm here cause I'm looking for wiring diagrams for my 1988 suzuki quadrunner 250 4x4. Got it from a friend. Didn't run when I got it. Has been flawless for over a year. Took it on the trail fist time, and it developed a short in the neutral / staring system. That's why I'm here. 4 wheeler is told to just got buy this info. Would like to find a service manual if it was still possible. Anyhow 👋. Cant wait to see the responses.

Morning. I'd missed that earlier post with the diagram. That washer and the one next to it work together to stop that gear 21 and 23 from moving length-ways. They are all cross cut gears though and there really isn't much end thrust; the washers are not doing much. I'm a bit dubious about them alone being the cause.. Once the gear is engaged, the roller should only be being touched if the gear had slid along the shaft a little, but it won't be pressing hard against it, or causing any chattering that could fatigue it.. I don't think anyway.. I'm presuming that the fork goes on part 20 ? I'd check that (20) fit on it's hub, part 21. I'd be checking it can't rock and allow that wear in the arch of the fork. I'd also check the fit of gear 22 on it's hub 23 looking for the same wear that would allow it to rock on it's bush 23. I think that either of those, if they could and were leaning slightly, as they would be to touch the fork, could and would chatter because of the three engaging dogs on part 20. If 20 was leaning over slightly, or gear 22 was leaning over slightly, then as the shaft and gears rotated the three dogs would force it, with some force, to keep trying to lean the other way once every 180 degrees of rotation. That force could chatter and break a roller..

Tried . . . failed. got a heck of a shiner from it. I'm good at ducking and rolling into the unexpected but oops, ya git hit once in awhile anyway. That last large blow down top was the one that got me. If ya look close as Im walking back after picking up my helmet and cam, you can see stick poking up from the front of my bike. It (one in a million?) slid up in the adjustment slot on my gun (moose) fork and that whipped the tree top down under the visor. I thought I was going off until my lid went flying. Still a good ride and a good day. If Id been on the throttle it would have been bad. Ill take a chainsaw next time . . . once was enough.

my name is CRW i am from Olivehurst, CA. I ride anything i can get my hands on. I find old quads and fix them up and sell them. I ride at a place called Gray;s beach! alot off soft sand and hills to jump over right now I'm trying to fix a Yamaha Timberwolf 250 and she is giving me hell she will not fire. what i do know matter what i do