Frank Angerano

Ohh boy. All back together and running ?

Take a look at this pic, I added a red arrow pointing to the tab but would only apply if you have the metal tab on your float as some floats are only plastic. It gets bent in any one direction two things will happen the float will push up to soon or not push up far enough resulting in a flooding of the carburetor. Good luck.

I’m wondering if you have the float set at the proper level. Is it possible that you bent the tab that holds the fill needle in the bowl and maybe prematurely cutting the fuel filling up the bowl to the proper level? Maybe take a look at that it happens.

It may not be a fuel issue. Could be a pick up coil getting hot or an electrical break down where something is getting hot. Or high rpm throwing off the timing of the spark at the pick up coil maybe but that would only happen if something was loose (flywheel) keyway.

Have you checked the fuel valve (petcock) ? Make sure fuel is flowing from the tank. If that does not work then I would think your fuel is not entering the the carb where the float needle is. I know it sound repetitive but you missed something. Go back blow everything out and double check. Main and pilot jets all clear ?

It sounds like something is back feeding power into the ignition circuit somehow. Maybe an accessory? Plow lights of some sort ? I would get a tester and see what wire gets power at the ignition plug when you turn the ignition off and trace that back. Also check the entire harness for damage. Wires get hit all the time or areas where the harness is rubbing against the frame of the bike wear away the tape and insulation. After that i would start checking the stator coil, regulator, and secondary coil with a tester for proper ohms that’s shown in the repair manual. If you are not sure how do do that we can kinda walk you through it or check on YouTube as well it’s very helpful

Welcome to Quadcrazy, is the ignition switch new? Replacement? Maybe damaged? I would take it out and inspect the switch as well as any crossed wires. See if someone removed the plug and maybe hardwired it ?

Pic of the vin #?

Nice work!

I’m glad you got it out. All back together ?

Quick question. The float in your carb is sticking the main fill needle connected to the float that’s allowing fuel to enter the bowl? Reason I’m asking I recently picked up a carb cleaning brush kit from amazon. It will have a brush in the set that runs up and down the port cleaning and brushing it. And that needle can be scrubbed with a scratch pad along the side rails where it’s probably getting hung up. It’s a tedious job but it works if that’s the only thing going on with the carb. Just a thought. I tried to upload a pic for you to see but there is something going on with the site I think so I can’t upload anything ??? $8 bucks on amazon Anyone reading this post that works on bikes I recommend having this set. Carb Carburetor Cleaner Cleaning Brushes Kit, Small Wire Brush - 20 Needles + 10 Brushes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075J7M7B4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5JSIAbGDQ3EQY

I put that carb on my Polaris 200 Phoenix. And also my 90cc Polaris predator. It worked great! Could not believe it. I figured how could a carb for that price work. Especially on my predator because it’s a two stroke oil injected carb. So far so good. I sold the 200 and still see the bike out there riding good.

Nice job Rez! Glad to hear it’s fixed. Happy riding brother.

Hey hoghead what’s your question ? Aftermarket as in a generic or an upgrade ?

Click reply and below that you willl see an icon that says click to choose files. Select pics and they will upload. If you can’t figure it out then add the vin # in your post.

Nothing like a project bike !!! Welcome to Quadcrazy @Repair, think about how deep you are into this project. Would you really feel 100% comfortable knowing that the case is “doctored” up? Between the constant heat and cooling process which = expansion and contraction, I don’t think it will perform very well. Maybe in the beginning but not for long. I’m sure you can find a casing somewhere. My personal feeling is..... Im wrapping up my 6th project and I asked the questions to a few friends on this site in particular about what to do and where to save and where not to try and save. Even if it meant holding up my project for a few weeks to find a few bucks. The end result was so much better. And the answer I think here is brother “doctor up” something that’s not that deep! Not the heart of the engine. Good luck. Post some pics if you can we love to see progress photos.

You are welcome. Does the throttle have two wires going onto it ?

Why don’t you warm the bike up really good (hot) and the take the readings on the stator, and pick up coil again to see that they aren’t breaking down when hot. Also include the regulator. Hopefully the readings are the same and within spec when hot.

I would look into the rev limiter. Open up the top cap of the throttle and take a pic and post it. There most likely are two wires going into the throttle or someplace on the bike I would start there. If not then check the wire harness like @quadmaniac for shorted or crossed wires. But since it idles when you hook the battery up and only gives you a problem when you start to rev it makes me suspicious about the rev limiter.

@davefrombc has a good point. Someone could have tapped a wire thinking it’s a 12v for some accessory and it’s backfeeding. Look for anything out of the norm that does not belong to the original wire harness. Good point Dave.

Gm module ?? I would go back to basics for a minute. Was the new cdi an oem or aftermarket ? I’ve put two aftermarket cdi boxes on bikes that did not work. An oem box worked so I’m leary about aftermarket cdi’s if that’s what you used. Was the stator installed correctly ? And pick up coil? And the gap between the pickup coil and stator? Should be a non adjustable and only go in one way but double check. I would also get a tester and take an ohms reading on the new stator and pick up just to be safe that they are working and within the range as per the manual. As far as the regulator goes I’ve used aftermarket and they have worked for me but nothing like oem parts! This is going to sound stupid but it worked for me and a few other people I know to determine if my cdi was bad. I baked it in my oven for 10 min @ 250 deg and let it cool off and put it in and I had spark. Most cdi boxes go bad because of moisture inside. Warming it does in fact get the moisture out and will work for a while but not a permanent fix. I would put the orignal rectifier back and try that with the old cdi if it’s not an original (oem) part you used. Aside from that you should take the tester and go through wiring and relays starting from the battery up to the controls and looking at the neutral safety switch, look for any broken or hit wires along the frame. What year is the bike ?

Hey Jason, welcome to Quadcrazy. So I’m assuming by the way you explained this, is that you have the spark plug out of the engine and you turn the key on and off and back on and you see a spark at the plug? What started all the parts/replacement work ? Can you give a little background with the bike was it a running bike? Something happen out of the blue ? And the year of the bike?

It can and will “piss you off” if you look at a lot of my posts I always say take your time and a step back and breathe!!! Hopefully you nailed it brother. Keep us posted. Im always interested with this kind of thing and the next guy will use the info.

Very nice job! So I’m assuming that the spark was firing at the wrong time? I’m surprised you didn’t at least get a backfire but either way great job keep us posted! What did you do to narrow it down ? Did you ohms test it ?