Frank Angerano

It’s no problem brother really.

Did you test the starter ?

Yes the relay should have clicked. That completes the starting circuit. The bevel gear cover when unbolted will not slide off because the shifter shaft prevents it from sliding off due to the close proximity to the frame. So two ways to do this. One way is to pull the engine out of the bike and make the repair. This may be the best way to go for you since the problem may be deeper inside the engine. Second way: The oil does get drained, the engine mount bolts all need to be taken out including the bolt/brackets on the top and front of the engine. These are triangular shaped brackets that are bolted to the frame and the engine. They both have to come out for clearance. The left foot rest needs to come off as well. The exhaust silencer gets taken off so when you raise the engine it does not twist the exhaust or put pressure on the pipe coming from the engine. There are four nuts 12mm holding the rear axle shaft to the engine they come off as well but not until the last minute and see if the engine moves up without taking them out. If not then take them off. Once thats all done the engine should be pried up gently, have some wood wedges ready to stick in between the engine and frame to keep it up. Just don’t force it. The engine should move up freely and only need to go up about two inches max. After thats done you should be able to take that cover off. Make sure all the bolts are off the bevel gear cover and tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Lastly I want to mention one important thing. Take a big piece of cardboard, as you remove bolts put a hole in the cardboard, stick the bolt in and write on the cardboard with a marker where it came from. Good luck. I will be checking in to see how your doing. Take pics.

The starter motor will crank if the switch is in the off position. It just won’t fire up. I would look toward doing some testing on the stator coil. Maybe a new cdi box as well.

No worries. Decide which way you want to go and take it from there.

The picture here is the reverse cam. The neutral safety switch sits right over it. It’s held in by two Philips screws circled in yellow. The red circle is the spring loaded contact on the reverse cam. The back side of neutral safety switch has two copper circles under it. That tab on the reverse cam touches the copper circles turning the neutral light on (green wire) and the reverse light (red wire) that’s all done by shifting which happens when you shift gears that shaft rotates and turns the cam into position. So I’m thinking that that shaft is not rotating.

My guess is that shaft on the reverse cam is broken leaving the neutral light on. If I’m correct that means the engine gets split. I would start by locating that light green wire over that bevel gear cover and unplug it. If the neutral light goes off then the problem is under that cover. When your ready to pull that cover let me know I will walk you through it.

@Freezeman that’s some good info. Some of the needles have a rubber tip on them as well. Sure you will save someone a lot of float adjustment time after reading this. 👍🏻

No worries brother. The 95 should be exactly as the pics I sent.

Here are some pics of what you may be looking for. Fist pic is the cover, second is the cover off and the neutral safety switch covering the cam and shaft. Third pic is the actual cam and the lock out lever.

Hey Richard, welcome to Quadcrazy. What year is the bike? That lock out knob, when you turn it, is there spring loaded pressure that returns it back? On the left side of the engine where the shifter is there is the reverse cam lock out that the cable leads to. Follow that down and see if anything is jamming it up the cable. If not the problem may be under that cover where the actual reverse cam is. But I don’t know the year and some vary. The cover that houses that part is called the bevel gear cover. It’s a bi*** to get off but doable. Unfortunately the engine bolts all need to come off and the left foot rest as well. Its possible the spring is bad or worse the shaft inside is broke. But before you get into all that do some simple testing first and go through all the gears etc and see if anything else is not right.

Well that would be fun to watch so if you do that please video it!!! 🔥 lol. Yes you can bench test. Just take a pair of jumper cables or some wire and attach a ground to the body of the starter and to the negative terminal on the battery. Then take the positive terminal on the battery red wire and touch it on the starter connection bolt. The starter should spin. But strap or hold it down. They jump.

The spark plug should be dry. If it’s covered in oil then that’s bad. Are you sure it’s oil and not gas? Do this. Take the plug out and clean it good with some sand paper or a wire brush. Plug it into the ignition coil where it belongs and rest the plug against the head and test for spark.

Ugh that sucks brother. Probably so if it made a grinding noise. The starter relay didn’t get jammed did it ?

That’s the thing with Quadcrazy! When I first found this site I was borderline loosing my mind about a problem I was having on one of my bikes. I consider myself a good mechanic and figuring problems out is not a big deal for the most part. Over the years I’ve gotten so much better but continue to learn every day. But sh** like this comes up and really makes me reset and go back to basics. Actually it was @davefrombc that pointed me in the direction of my problem I was having on that one particular bike and wound up being exactly that! So big shout out to Quadcrazy and the member base including @Ajmboy and @Admin and let’s keep paying it forward!

Stick with what’s recommended. You can’t go wrong.

I have to say this was a good post today @Brad Leeson. I’ve over looked this jet from day one! I’ve never knew about this jet. I thought that the jet you were looking for was that small one next to the main jet.

Maybe a good idea to change fluids.Have you tried to rock the bike back and forth and shift at the same time to see if it’s any easier?

Well I would just double check that all the fluids are up to par first and see how the oil looks and feels. Have you looked at the shifter to see if anything is obstructing it ? Does it look like it was removed and reinstalled?

See if this helps.

Hey Kevin. Welcome to Quadcrazy! That’s a great pic in your profile! Is that a 68 or a 69? Either way it’s sweet. Shifting should not be difficult. Have you checked and or changed all the fluids?

Take a look at this. Curious about everyone’s input.it looks pretty good. We all have this common problem of accessing the air fuel mixture screws. The reviews look pretty good. I may order one just to see how it works out. https://www.motosport.com/rd-flex-jet-fuel-mixture-screw They also have other types that will work on this site.

I see it’s listed as that. Some carburetors show it as a starter jet. It should be the one that’s pointed out in the pic. It’s that small alcove off of the plastic rim.

There is no pilot air jet. The only jets are the main jet, pilot jet and a choke jet on some carburetors. Do you mean air fuel mixture screw ?

You can double check the wiring all the way back to see if there is a bust in the wires. Have you tested the spark for any breakdown. I purchased an in line spark tester after another member pointed me in the direction of the rev limiter and found my spark was breaking down due to the rev limiter having a fault but my problem was in the handlebars at the throttle. I separated the wires and it ran fine.