ATVmechanic

Like they said, try changing the oil in the machine. But the main thing you need to do if you feel you are loosing oil is, a compression test. "Testing the compression of an engine allows you to check the condition of the top end without a costly tear-down. For this reason, a compression test should be performed as one of the first steps in any tune-up. There is little point in adjusting your jetting when you have a bent valve or worn rings." Instructions: You will need a compression gauge with a 12 mm adaptor to test your engines compression. 1.Remove the sparkplug. 2.Install the sparkplug adaptor paying particular attention not to cross-thread it. 3.Attach the compression gauge to the 12 mm adaptor. 4.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, hold the throttle wide open and crank the electric starter until the needle on the compression gauge stops rising. Compare your reading with specification. (Specification for compression is 686 - 883 kPa or 100 - 128 psi) A low reading is a possible indication of tight valves, damaged piston and piston rings, poor valve seating, leaking cylinder head gasket or a worn-out cylinder. Check that your compression tester connections are not leaking and are properly tightened. Pour a few drops of fresh engine oil into the sparkplug hole and recheck the compression. If the compression increases that is a good indication that the cylinder and/or the piston rings are worn. If the compression remains the same you will want to inspect your valve clearances. See the Valve Adjustment topic for more information. If your compression test reveals a high reading it is not necessarily cause for alarm. Is the engine stock? If you are running a high-compression piston or the head has been milled you will get higher readings than specification. If the engine is stock, a high compression reading could indicate excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and/or combustion chamber.

Is there a ratchet gear in there? See if the attached diagram helps you out. It's not exactly your year, but I believe the kick start mechanism should be the same.

I'm not sure on your quad but on most of the little quads they have a collar or restrictor in the carb throat and some have them in the exhaust. What model year is that? Take a look at these parts diagrams: suzuki partsmanual fiche lt50 2000 y partslist

Hmm.. Maybe you broke the return spring. For shifting in gear, I wonder if that Neutral switch is bad. I attached some parts diagrams for you.

Did you solve your problem? Off topic, are you affected by the steering recall on that machine: Twin Peaks Recall Info

I haven't heard any common issues. Have you taken off the shift lever and checked the spline? Check to see if it is stripped out. I'm not aware of any hardened aftermarket shift shafts. I attached a parts diagram for you..

Sounds to me like you have a bad "NEW" battery or connection somewhere at the battery if it starts when connecting the charger. Return that battery and get a new one, it could be defective.

You should be able to disconnect the carb and rotate it enough to take off the plate with screws 20 and 26. #13 you should check, but just check the overall movement of the float. It should be 100% free floating up and down.

Sounds like you lucked out! Need to have a good ground. Good job.

I have done business with JC Whiteny on numerous occassions. Mostly automotive stuff. They do have more ATV stuff these days. Great delivery, catalog, and cheap.

Your battery was probably shorted out. You shouldn't cross terminals. What's happening is that your battery is no longer holding a charge but is completing the curcuit after started with your charger, to keep it running. I believe you have a Yuasa YTX9-BS battery in there. Just a tip, instead of going to the delaer for a new battery, try going to a Sears Auto to pick one up: Shop for PowerSport Batteries in the Automotive department of Sears.com I've attached the starting and charging systems wiring diagrams for you.