Gwbarm

Looks like a nice project, it depends on wheather it was seized from lack of oil or just sitting, a lot of times these things will just sit from something minor like a carb problem, hopefully its the latter, but check the oil and make sure it has some in it. Next i would quirt PB Blaster in the spark plug hole let it sit for a couple of days take the stator side cover off so you can get to the crank nut i would not put a tremendous amount of pressure there you dont want the nut to break or strip. If no luck there get a big piece of rubber wrap around the flywheel use a pipe wrench and move it back and forth and when you get movement go left when it gets tight go back to the right working it back and forth until you get a full engine revolution. If still no movement i have at a last resort take an old spark plug break it off drill and tap to install a grease fitting fill it up with grease the pressure will break it free i very rarely do that its really messy. You can also take the head off so you can get to the piston use a 2x4 and hammer while putting pressure on the crank nut with wrench. So there are many ways to unstick an engine just depends on how stuck it is.

Cable or electronic shift This may help. 6ee486.pdf

Lot of good people with much knowledge to share.

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From your usage description i would go with the Kenda Bear Claw EX, not really aggressive tread design but bites good on hard surface. The K299 has more of an aggresive tread better for mud than hard surface, so that may depend on the kids summer riding .

If it wont hit on starting fluid i would check compression and timing.

This is the repair manual hopefully it attached correctly. LT-F400F_99500-43052-01E.pdf

It looks similar to an Arctic Cat neutral switch but its hard to tell from the photo see if there is a wire missing from the left side cover it should go inside the engine case.

It does sound like kill switch no making good contact even though its sparking may not be a strong spark, i would take the kill switch apart and clean the contacts, it could also be some trash broke loose and stopped up carb to check, try starting fluid to check and see if it will try to start to check that.

In my state it doesnt have to be in a case but unloaded, no loaded guns allowed while operating ATV, you can hunt from ATV if you have a handicapped license but not while operating it.

I usually carry a plug kit and a Colby valve stem which can be installed without removing tire, and usually a amall air pump about the size of an i phone, it works well enough for the low pressure tires. That will usually be enough to get you home.

Welcome! Head bolt torque is 18 to 20 ft pds . If the carb on it is OEM i would not change it unless you are having issues.

In those years the air filter had a cage to support the filter it would slide on the cage to keep it from collapsing. Now most of the air filters bought are self supporting, no cage needed, just be sure you buy a self supporting filter, or you can get the cage and go back with the OEM filter.

The light has to be on to complete the circuit even if its in neutral, you sure its the bulb, the switch is fairly easy to change on the 350 and fairly cheap, to answer your question the starter cutout relay is close to the soloenoid in the wiring harness as i recall its not easy to find on the 97 but its a small black box that plugs into the wiring harness.

Pulling the brake lever usually has something to do with the neutral light circuit, is the neutral light on and still wont start until you use the brake lever.

If the needle and seat is not closing completely and quad is stopped with valves open gas can get into the cylinder or sump if gas is left on.

Very impressive no issues in 3 years not many can say that, and with 100 hrs on it, you have used it, just goes to show you proper maintenance is the key to longevity. Thanks for the update!

There is a small switch on the left brake lever when you pull the brake the switch makes contact and you can start in gear, switch may be bad. I have never bypassed it i like to keep all safety switches in place.

Stator shouldnt have anything to do with the reverse light, but removing the side cover would, check to make sure reverse neutral light wires did not get pinched when putting the cover back on.

If its really small and not completely cracked all the way to the edge glue might work oK i have even glued a larger washer on to help support and seal the crack and give it more support.

Glue will work for a while but will eventually break back loose from all the flexing of the plastic.

Use it underneath the crack push the crack together and use tape to hold it in place while doing the repair use the tool until it melts into the plastic dont go too far or it will burn through use several of the patches along the crack then cut off the extra metal hanging down now remove the tape not perfect but will hold it in place and keep it from getting worse. II have also used epoxy to fill in the top side where the crack is still visible use paint to color the epoxy to close to the finish color never matches perfectly but you can get it very close with trial and error.

Mike, that sounds like a good diagnostic theory i would go along with that.

Good selection, all very nice machines.

Welcome! Good place to gain and share information.