Gwbarm

Great compression! I dont give up! I will stick with you and hopefully we can figure it out. You need spark, gas, compression all at the right time to run. You have all of those so it should run if gas supply is good. Of course there are all these electronic dohickies that get in the way of the basics for safety regulations.

The spark timing is controlled to some degree by the CDI, but i wouldnt go there yet, i would look further into the sensors you mentioned earlier. Getting lots of pressure or just some pressure, might check the pressure on a gauge, you should be getting lots of pressure.

Good job! I like that you can remove it easily.

The big bear bumper series ran from 87-91 then they changed it. Im not sure how much of a change they made, of corse anything will fit with enough cutting and welding but probably wont bolt right on.

I unplugged the coil , pickup coil , stator, fan controller, still blowing fuse with new keyswitch. The one thing iforgot to unplug is the fan i will try that next , after that all thats left is the CDI and the starter circuit interrupt relay, but usually when that goes out you get nothing, no click no humm nothing when you turn the key. Not sure about either starter should still turn even with bad CDI. Got to be a direct short somewhere in the harness.

If the valves are loose when there and cam lobes pointing down timing is good. I was suspecting it might be thats why i didnt want you to tear the engine down to find out timing is good. Check for spark, also put your finger over the plug hole while turning over the engine and see if you feel anything weird, it should blow on your finger.

Yes there will be oil in there but nothing you can measure check your oil with the dip stick.

The hole next to the pull cord is an inspection hole for timing you can look there to set it to top dead center. The dipstick hole is where you add oil. There is a large nut underneath to drain the oil there is a spring under it so dont loose it. The oil filter is under a cover with 2 large lines going from oil cooler held on by 3 allen bolts

Well, this one has me scratching my head and questioning myself, nothing is acting right. Having the main fuse on the solonoid blowing when i press the start button. Replaced soloenoid and doing the same, unpluged the coil and it stopped blowing fuses but just buzzing at the soloenoid, so i replaced the starter still doing the same, replaced keyswitch, no difference. I decided to start checking voltages, battery voltage 13.2 voltage to soloenid when i turn the key on have voltage to second terminal no clicking just voltage on both terminals, neutral light is on i push the start button, lots of noise at soloenoid neutral light goes off and oil light comes on everytime i press the button. Reinstalled new coil now blowing fuses again. The engine is not locked i can pull it with pull start i take the spark plug out no difference in electric start but easier to pull over with pull start as it should be. I unplugged the pickup coil and i have no resistance there so i have to go in and replace that, but im not sure that is all my problems when they go out it just doesnt spark not keep the starter from working. Never seen anything acting quite like this. Some of you professional mechanics out there with electronic expierence,any advise would be greatly appreciated, it went from running great to idling thats when it quit.

Turn the engine slightly, if the allen wrench goes down turn it the opposite way until its at its highest point and check the marks to make sure its at top deaad center if it is timing is correct if not the only way to fix it is get to the timing gear. With the valves loose thats a good sign it is in time.

I have mounted a few of these and what i generally do is get these padding squares that stick on they are made to mont on each corner where it touches the rack im surprised they didnt come with it, like the cargo boxes for cars, if not that get some heavy rubber that wont break down from moisture a lot of padding is not weather resistant, but i like the stick on stuff better it stays in place as you tighten it down. Padding is really not necessary i just like for it to be protected at the contact points.

Havent really worked on a 500 but this is what i found, no timing chain inspection cover. Don't have to mess with the top end on a 500. Get it to TDC by taking out the sight plug on the right side on the rear engine cover Stand it on it's butt and remove front engine cover (I found it easiest to remove fan to create space to work) Remove clutches, and timing chain is right there. Thats crazy! I would take out the sight plug get it to top dead center and stick something in the spark plug hole to make sure its at top dead center you can also check where the valves are at top dead center with their inspection caps off.

Thanks for sharing!

The belt reset switch is under the belt cover just push it back if it has tripped. This video might help there are many things that need servicing including adding or removing shims for belt adjustment.

If it is not broken off flush with the case iwould wet it good with PB Blaster let it sit for a while and either grab the stud with a small pipe wrench or vice grips, dont try to gorilla it out when it starts to move go back and forth gently a little at aa time and it will eventually come out. If it is broken off flush with the case you have to drill a hole and use an ease out but again gently you dont want that to brake off then you really have problems.I dont like ease outs much but sometimes necessary. Another way i sometimes get them out is drill a small hole close to the edge so you can get a punch in there and then hit the punch with a hammer towards the counterclockwise rotation also keeping it wet with PB Blaster.

Roll the engine over to the timing mark on flywheel and then remove the cam gear inspection cover and make sure the timing mark there is in the correct position.

Yes they are tight, you may have to apply heat, i always try to remove with flywheel still in place, but since its out you will need to use an impact PB BLaster for lubricant and heat.

I would clean the carb good with ultrasonic cleaner take the emulsion tube out also, hard to start hot sounds like low compression or flooding it might be just stuck rings that may come free after running a bit, i would check the compression with throttle open if low put in a little oil and check again if it goes up its rings.

It sounds like the clutch is not grabbing what does it do when you give it more throttle make noise or just sit there or go slowly. Its also possible it jumping out of gear, try shifting again and see if it wants to move.

Thats typical running problem of an aftermarket carb. If you put the jets from an aftermarket carb into the original Kei- Hin carb they are not the same as OEM and is probably your problem. Thats good you put a regular petcock on, i did the same to mine, it was bad and i could only run it on prime no gas getting through in the run position. It finally got so bad no gas was getting through in either position. Mine came with aftermarket on it and ran terrible flooding badly, previous owner said he drilled out the jets because it ran too lean, but he went too far, so i finally found a used OEM and rebuilt it with an ALL BALLS kit supposedly a good kit, but after thinking about it i wish i would have gotten the OEM jets and needle but i needed the gaskets also and went with the kit. A lot of people i know have not had any problems with aftermarket carbs, but i did. Maybe im a perfectionist when it comes to idling and running, expect more than they can supply. The aftermarket carbs fit numerous models spanning numerous years, and the original Kei-Hin for your model was only on it for 2 years 04 and 05 and then Suzuki changed it. There is another issue with the Eiger that could cause running problems, they were bad for the magnets coming unglued from the flywheel and moving around they dont relly go anywhere but are constantly moving which will also affect running, the new flywheel replacement has internal magnets, i had to replace my flywheel because of this. All that being said the Eiger is a great machine i have 2 of them, it is a Beast will pull more weight than the Big Bear or the Foreman but the King Quad was the flagship and got all the publicity, the Eiger fell into its shadow and was only produced 4 years. I have often heard it referred to as the King Quads ugly sister, i like it because it looked different.

That sounds like a timing issue, have you checked to see if its jumped time.

No voltage applied checked it out of the ATV with no voltage im not trying to figure output just trrying to see if all the coils are intact with nothing broken internally. service manual gives a value for that if it doesnt fall within their numbers posted replace coil.

Not sure what you are asking. No coil is not melted i figure when it grounded out something shorted internally aftermarket does not use the same quality of wire as OEM. No Fluke meter here, Milwauke Tool, the resistance on the primary was 1 spec is .18 to.28 spec on secondary was 6.2-8.2 i got 3.8 which is low but it was like that when i bought it just figured some descrepency in plug cap on the aftermarket unit, but it worked, thats why i am getting OEM this time. Want it to be right i have never been a stickler for name branded parts but i am now some of these parts i have been getting are bad, even for car, i drive a Lincoln Navigator and only install motorcraft parts and now when i get the part box in i have to inspect it carefully to make sure its not a fake motorcraft part, sorry off subject but i am having trouble getting genuine motorcraft parts for my navigator i have stopped trying with Amazon and now go with Rock Auto, no problems with them so far, spark plugs coil packs and brakes i had the same problem with mopar parts never know what you are getting these days its hard enough working on them without having to second guess parts.

The weird thing about the coil is the resistances were correct, primary and secondary, if i hadnt checked for continuity between power input and ground i would have missed it and still be checking for shorted wires, but i knew something was fishy about it. I was beginning to think it might be the fan control module because it is grounded under the coil bolt.

Pulled the coil out to test it getting continuity between power input and ground thats why im blowing fuses, i will get an OEM, not downing aftermarket coils, it could have been my fault not catching the plug wire so close to the exhaust. Get the new coil and go from there hope it didnt damage the CDI. New soloenoid arriving today will get that installed havent decided if i am going to replace the starter yet although i also have one coming today, not OEM, but i can slap it in there until i rebuild the OEM one .