Gwbarm

Good point Mech! I usually run a thicker oil in an engine that has been sitting for years on first start up to get everything oiled and lubed up and turning again, run it for a while to hopefully get the inside cleaned up good, thicker seems a little stickier than thin, probably not, but thats what i do. Then change back to manufacturers grade after running for a month or so.

Dremmell will help, but if its biting into the metal of the shaft it wont make any difference, but will make it look neater and cleaner.

Looking at the axel design it looks like with the snap ring removed it should have come off either way, appears to have the same taper on each end. Where it stops it appears that it may have gotton hot there at some point in its life , looks like baked on oil you might clean thaat good with wire wheel and it might slide right on, but the metal may have expanded from the heat in that area causing the problem. Good job! Makes me want to get out and work on mine, but this time of the year i have so much yard work to do.

Great you got it all apart, its sometimes easier when you get it out and can work on it. Your shaft looks good i think better thaan the ebay one , bearing carrier doessnt look bad, so you just need some bearings and a sprocket hub. Good work!

Yeah! The more i thought about it , thats what i would do also, i did find one on Ebay wasnt that great and he wanted way too much for it. Also found this one wasnt bad for the money. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285414198526?epid=26017014636&itmmeta=01HQSKYC2BCH3QCKVNVYVN78S6&hash=item4274030cfe:g:vXcAAOSw6SJky9cQ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAABAIsz1lU3nJVQNHecZlJx2fs1N3a7rKZm9%2FZ%2BhQo2LjhBNi7JYJOeoY1sncPZfwO6x3EUqJhB3rgzFl0Xmvr0JpQSKwNi11TvUvTArwXyGdFFuitBjd1uDZW%2BzQEjs%2FY3wzVrOUfWH%2FniB7zzF8wHeKy4Cz61AMHG4nOwMiYTvkldvUMZXHCVu2GCspsgSpcmWssFxRSxnc3Vqx0X0b0YwhANcB0Y7yotWjbIxT%2FpLiCEvysSxATm2oOB%2BGpzRDvbaQsmUCLXEdSbGCbMqsF%2B0D3YMEMKfv2%2F9aDyhX%2FwzHXQD1UYQV0RBq5q%2Fd6sKmhBkrtl%2BPJDTr2uQn0qjnw5DwI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7DB-bO-Yw I think once you get it out there will be more options as to how to get it apart.

Thats a good plan! I might have missed something along the way, just a thought, if everything else is good, you are just trying to get the wheel studs to grab in the hub, get the old ones out by splitting the nut, try some new ones and see if they grab after you install them, as an option. If you want to get everything new for piece of mind thats a different story.

You can, you can spread those brackets apart and the whole thing will come out. I couldnt see a lot of your photos and videos not sure why yet. Been trying to figure it out. i could see this one and the last photo you posted. Is your shaft damaged or are you just doing it to replace the bearings, i know your sprocket hub was damaged.

Wow! I have been gone for a few days, no computer, you guys have really been busy. Im trying to catch up.

I understand, most of the ones i have seen have been loose enough that i could get a hold of the backside to hold while i got the nut off, i can see the last photo you posted, but the ones before have looked like this been trying to figure it out, not just your photos but videos also from others, i just thought one of my settings got chaanged. Anyway in that case you need to cut the nut off.

Yeah not sure why but they are always stripped out, remove the wheel , remove the 3 bolts holding on the sprocket protector, 3 more nuts hold the sprocket on the hub, wet them good with PB blaster and hold the back side with vice grips or something similar to get the nut off then you can better evaluate your hub, im sure it can be saved .

I think i would start with the voltage regulator they are fairly cheap.

Some are it depends on what you are looking for, generally the plastics are not available.

I would check the timing to make sure nothing moved while replacing the cylinder.

You dont have to just to check the timing, if you plan on going deeper into the engine to replace the chain or something else you would. To get it at top dead center you will see your T in the inspection hole on your recoil starter cover, it will be at about two O clock, with the crank key pointing toward the cam gear. From what i remember of this engine on the cam chain there are 3 silver links, there are two that line to marks on the cam gear and there is one that line to a mark on the case next to the crankshaft. These are just there for initial installing of the cam chain, to get timing right, they dont stay in that position. So if you pull the cover and they are not where they are supposed to be dont get alarmed.

Sorry i couldnt see your video just got a black screen with a pointer and a line through it, maybe i have a setting wrong, i havent been having this problem. I think my first question would be which carb did you put on. Regardless, you might be able to adjust it out, without seeing the video, im guess it may be running lean, you can try adjusting the mixture with the adjusting screw, first turn it all the way in and see how many turns it is out, and then start adjusting from there, keeping in mind your original setting. If that doesnt work you can check against you old one to see if the jetting is the same, but that might not matter if its an aftermarket carb, the fuel and air jets have to match up, so could be different on aftermarket.

Yes the timing hole is rathar difficult, a bolt comes out so you can see the timing mark down through the bolt hole, a little small, would have been better if it was a larger hole to look down in. I was looking at your photo i see the T, i would have expected to see an F not far from the T but didnt see one on the flywheel, I do know with the flywheel removed you can see a small line next to the crank shaft for timing, but that for people who are going deeper into the engine than you are.

They are fairly specialized bolts 8mm head on 6mm bolt, had to replace some, most i found had a 10mm head on 6mm bolt, ended up getting them from the dealer, good yours arent missing or broken.

I had forgotten that havent polished a shoe in years, but the Kiwi was the best shoe polish growing up and im sure they still sell it just never buy it.

I agree completely and have more than expressed my opinion on OEM carbs, but i also have been very impressed with the quality of the chinese carbs, i dont agree with the application data that they fit numerous bikes for numerous years but they do work. Example: I bought my Mikuni from a mikuni dealer on Ebay the carb i got was only produced for 1 years for my bike, but it was the first year of the run and was changed for the next year slightly, i would not have know this had i not talked to the dealer. I was very impressed with the service provided by this company. I have aa test carb on a bike right now that is running good now, i am running it for a year and see how it holds up compared to Mikuni or Kei Hin. So far it is doing well maybe running a little leaner than it should, but i can adjust that out on this carb. I also have had many that could not be adjusted out.

That sounds reasonable, for every inch of extra tire height you get about 1/2 inch more ground clearance, it will be taller which will make the machine easier to roll, but since you have installed the lift kit and spacers that should give it a wider footprint and be OK.

I have had good luck with Caltric parts as well, but i havent used one of their carbs.

👍

I second the power steering as a must have feature.

The website says they have been in business since 2009 didnt say anything about where the engines come from. I would be careful buying it without knowing more about the company and if parts are readily available.

Thaanks for sharing i very rarely look at new ones. They are very nice, just looking i kind of agree with you on the King Quad styling.