Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

All I have been through everything. Bought brand new.

Throttle safety switch 

Cam and rockers

ECM

Carborator

Stator

Fuel safety switch 

battery

Everything every forum has spoken of I've bought sealed airbox completely tight unplugged black wire on trans. I have literally done everything in the book.Checked oil today full of gas anyone no anything what might b wrong. Next I'm taking head off and making sure valves seat any ideas.

Posted

A leaking valve isn't going to fill the oil with gas. Plus you can check valve leakage with a leak down test with the head on.

I would be looking at the carb. The needle and seat is not working right and I bet the seat of the needle is leaking. I posted about this problem recently on here in the Polaris forum. Booth units I had that problem with were Polaris 500's.

Be sure to pull the oil drain plug on the bottom side of the crankcase to drain the oil from the crank case. Just draining the oil from the bottom plug of the oil tank will not empty the crank case that is full of fuel.

Posted

No it starts and idles perfect but when you give it gas it starts backfiring through the card horribly bad and it takes it forever to start keep turning it over it will pop a few times then it will eventually start and idle smooth as rain until you hit the gas replaced everything you can think of still same thing and its perfectly in time I don't understand it how can you do bleed off to check the valves with a compression tester

Posted

No that's the only test I haven't done yet been reading all the forums so figured that stuff was what was wrong its doing same exact thing so didn't put much thought I have checked time and its smack dab on so I'm stuck besides compression check and make sure valves are seated. I have a top end gasket kit just blows my mind cause any other 44-wheeler main jet or sec jet is clogged I went over this one with a tooth brush so not sure where I went wrong 

Posted

If that compression is what your showing the the only way at this point for fuel to get into your crank case is from a carburetor leaking fuel into the cylinder head and it’s making its way down the cylinder walls.  It has to be. Maybe separate the carburetor from the engine leaving it completely hooked up but pulled away from the manifold connecting it to the cylinder. As if it were in place but pulled a bit away from the engine.  See if you  notice any gas dripping out of the carb where it connects.  I would put a small piece of cardboard under it since cardboard shows moisture right away when it’s wet with the dark brown spots.   

 

 

Posted (edited)

Not too sure about your make of quad but the Yamahas have a mikuni carb.  The brass plug which contains the seat has an o-ring around it which breaks down eventually.  This causes fuel to bypass the needle and seat and can flood the carb.  Notice any fuel in your air box?  Also the high compression readings make me wonder if you are partially hydro-locked.  If possible pull the seat out and check for that o-ring.  It happened on my 03 Kodiak.

Edited by Laval
spelling errors
Posted (edited)

Had a similar issue with a Kawasaki once.  Crankcase is full of gas as a symptom of hard starting, so that's easily resolved once it starts correctly.  That compression is also a bit high so that's odd.  It's either a carb issue or bad plug. If you haven't replaced the spark plug yet, do that.  That ended up being the issue with my Kawasaki.  The plug wasn't firing hot enough under compression. 

You said new carb, I assume chinese carb?  Those are ok but hard to tune.  Sounds like wrong jets.  i've used 4 chinese carbs this month and jets were way wrong in all of them.  I had one stamped 95 that was NOT a 95, it was more like a 115.  Could also be the idle air screw wrong, float wrong.  Try checking the float level and using the OEM jets if they will fit.

Edited by MarkinAR
grammar
Posted

I don't care if the carb is brand new. You have a leaking needle seat like I and the previous poster mentioned. Your compression tests are extremely high because the motor is flooded with fuel and almost to the point of liquid lock, further cranking of a liquid locked motor can also cause rod bearing damage and failure.

The needle and seat will be where it's supposed to be yet it is not stopping fuel from flowing from the back side of the seat where the o-ring that is suppose to seal and hold the seat in place. If you take the needle and float off and the seat is easily pulled from the carbs body it is leaking. 

Even a good sparking spark plug will not spark when the carb is delivering too much fuel.

 

  

  • Like 1
Posted

So I was checking it out today and watching videos while I had flywheel off well in the video the key for flywheel is straight up and down with top end end the flywheel theres three notches and back behind them theres a t I didn't know that I ligned it up with the middle of the 3 notches so do I line timing up with t instead I lined it up with the t but I'm curious so I'm asking b4 I try to start it cause if I do it was like 40-45° out of time

Posted

Well put it 100% in time got the compression down to 138-140 but that's all it did still doing the same exact thing. Question though will it still give gas to the carb if your not turning the bike over like if I take gas line off to the carb gas still comes out. I checked the carb it is not leaking gas any where pulled the spark plug and nothing blew out of it it's not getting liquid locked at all. So I'm tearing the head off of it today to take s look at it. I lashed all the valves at .006 just figured I would ask you guys if it sounds right that's what my book says.

Posted

Sounds right to me.  If your pulling the carb off try something please to kill my curiosity.  

Put a clean hose on the fuel line of the carb and then turn the carburetor upside down and blow into the hose as hard as you can.  See if there is an air leak. Even if it’s minor it’s not good.   

Posted

Yup undid the little screw and pulled the seat out looks great. I got the head off right now taking a look at it. I'm damn good at fixing quads I do it almost every day but this one has me horribly baffled I no why gas is getting in the oil I have to turn it over about 50 times for it to start but when it does idles perfect when it doesn't start I pull spark plug nothing is coming out of spark plug whole its just kind of a little damp like you start it. Got the cam out now I didn't by rockers just the cam now the spigot and not sure what it is is it supposed to snap back really fast or just put in just for it to work when I put it in I spun the spring around once so it was a little stiffer but not sure if that's right

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By LMI
      Hi all.  New to the forum & quads.  Seems like a great place full of info.
      I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700.  I need a battery.  I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types.  I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire.  RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140.  Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
      from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS.  How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
      And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
    • By buriedpast
      As the title says, I've got a crankcase full of fuel / oil to deal with and figure I'll just start from the top and move through the system.  Going to start with a rebuild of the petcock and then the carb if the problem isn't fixed with the petcock rebuild.  I figure I'll go with a Moose kit unless others with experience recommend another brand (All Balls, etc.)
      Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance.
    • By DrtyGrlKristin
      Just thought I'd start a new thread for newbies to the site!
      If you're new here, tell us who you are, where you're from and what you ride!!!
      Lets get to know each other a little better shall we?
      I'm not new to the site, obviously, but...
      I'm Kristin from Denver!!! I ride a 2008 Yamaha Rhino. She's my muddy baby!!!!!! Several aftermarket parts on her. She's good to me! We try and ride every weekend. This weekend we're off to MOAB! :woot:
    • By rjsummer
      Just some friendly advice on new tires. Check with your ATV dealer. 
      There are so many aftermarket sites, Revco, Royal Distributing, Partzilla, and on and on. Even with their “ big sales”, my local Canam dealer’s REGULAR price beat the tire prices of the 3rd party sellers! People often assume the Dealership will cost them more, but I found this not to be true!
    • By MikeDB
      Greetings to all.  New to the forum, but not to ATVing.  I started when they only had 3 wheels!  Getting back into riding.  Polaris 850.  Too many bells and whistles, but what do you do.  Scouting out places to ride legally now. 
×
×
  • Create New...