Polaris 500 sportsman give it gas stalls

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Question I fired it back up with everything back together but figured I would test the alternator first fired it up 17-18v ac let it idle for a while now 22.7vac and 7.6dc what is going on

Also if I rev it up even a little its 50v ac just putting a little bit higher idle to it that's phase to phase btw

[Frank Angerano]

Test your stator out put. That’s extremely high! 

[colin james]

Voltage regulator maybe bad

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

That was straight off the stator from wire to wire the ohms dont match manual thru exciter coils either whoever had it b4 me bought stator and voltage regulator new well when I test exciter coils there 513-521 ohms manual says 446 so makes me think something is wrong I honestly think they bought a 96-97 stator colors dont match even close to what there supposed to.

That is off the stator output

[Frank Angerano]

Hmmm possibly the wrong stator. But was it running ok before all this happened ? The wires don’t match ? The plugs fit up or spliced wires?

 

[BuggyMasters]

No way. Barking up the wrong tree. What’s your DC voltage at the battery when idle? Ultimately, your spark runs off of DC voltage. HOWEVER...there used to be a problem where the magnets were flying off the flywheel and there are two types of flywheels. The one that had the problem had four magnets and the newer ones (the good ones) had 6 (if I remember right). I could see a problem if they replaced an old style flywheel with a new style flywheel throwing off the pickup. But tell me your DC voltage at the battery at idle.

Another thing to check: do you have a timing light? Use that to see if it’s actually losing spark when you give it gas. And what happened with the shot of carb cleaner test when you gave it gas?

Edited September 7, 2019 by BuggyMasters

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

When I first started it up it was perfect 18v ac from stator  12.7v dc output then I left it run a little bit longer at idle then it jumped up to 22.5v ac and 7.6v dc so I kept checking it revved it up a little and jumped up to50v ac I didn't want to hook voltage regulator up to that high of voltage 

[Frank Angerano]

That still would not make sense for the voltage to jump all over the place like that. Even if some of the magnets are gone OR the newer flywheel with the additional magnets was in place the voltage  should be stable if the engine is spinning at a constant rpm like it was explained? It jumped from 18v to 22v at idle ? How could the voltage change if the rpms did not ? My money would be on a bad stator. I do however find your information on the flywheel a very interesting point. 

[BuggyMasters]

The job of the regulator is to smooth and stabilize / along with handling you AC/DC conversion. So you had 12.7 DC at the battery with everything hooked up correctly or are you saying 12.7 without the regulator hooked up? The more important measurement on the stator is each of the 3 primaries to ground in which there should be no continuity. Usually when people change the stator it’s because the battery is not charging. I want to know battery voltage with everything hooked up at idle. The flywheel magnets being correct is relevant for the sake of the pickup. I just can’t remember the specifics but seems that it’s ok to have the newer flywheel so long as you have the matching newer stator. New flywheel and old stator/pickup coul is not going to work if I remember properly.

Edited September 7, 2019 by BuggyMasters

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Theres only 2 primaries and 2 exciters it was 18v ac measured phase to phase then 22v ac phase to phase then idled it up was 40v phase to phase

[BuggyMasters]

So with everything hooked up, what’s your DC voltage at the battery and where I am going with that is if at idle it’s 12.7 and when you give it gas it goes down to 7, I could see that causing it to cut off as that may not be enough juice for the coil to function. And obviously if you only have 12.7 at idle with everything hooked up you clearly have a stator/regulator issue. I’d probably go with a Ricky Stator replacement ignition system.

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Ok heres how I tested it I fired up the quad it was idling the voltage regulator up front tested 2 primary stator wires right there 18.7 so plugged those back in switch meter to dc tested that 12.6 well that was working right so I took stator wires back off now its 22.2 ac so I revved it up a little it went to 40v ac that's phase to phase

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

None of the wires on the stator match the manual 

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

That's what it looks like 

[BuggyMasters]

But the only thing that cares about the AC voltage is the regulator. The entire rest of the machine is only concerned with the DC. So the entire rest of the machine, including the ignition circuit, only cares about DC. The two components before you have DC are that stator and rectifier/regulator and those would be considered either good or no good and as a general rule their status will be based on the DC voltage. If you don’t have 13.6 (or so) while running at the battery you replace either or both of those components. In my experience, the stator is pretty typical. You usually find one of the coils going to ground and its bad. Period. I have absolutely seen stators ohm from lead to lead out of spec and it ran fine. Maybe it would charge a little stronger or weaker than one in spec but it would not keep the machine from running. So for that reason and also the fact that the solid state rectifier’s job is to manage the AC voltage, I have never cared about the AC voltage. If you replace the stator with a known good setup (with verified correct flywheel) and you still have either nothing over 12.6v or you have something high like 15vdc+ then you replace the rectifier. I personally feel you will drive yourself nuts chasing variances in AC voltage. (Been there done that and ultimately the solution was always to replace the stator or regulator). Also there is one other variable and that is the Polaris machines used to use this stupid box called a SureFire box. I just can’t remember if the 500’s used them. For sure on the 325’s and 330’s. If you have one of those sure fire boxes, they are notorious problem devices.

Yeah that’s the old style flywheel and what I would expect on a 99. That stator almost looks aftermarket. Any brand on it?

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Top one dc bottom ac

Directly off voltage regulator 

I unhooked the battery its down to 4.6 off regulator dc

[BuggyMasters]

That 12.6 is at idle with everything hooked up?

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Everything but red wire hooked up on voltage regulator that's where I have the tester 

[BuggyMasters]

If it was me I’d be ordering a new Ricky Stator just to take it out of the loop. Just make sure the stator is specific to your year. That one that is in there absolutely looks aftermarket. I just looked on eBay and as I expected the factory ones do t look like that. Looks like China brand. I mean I think you are having to fix someone else’s cheap as* approach.

Edited September 7, 2019 by BuggyMasters

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Ok will do that's at battery terminals everything is hooked up but battery I started it by jumper cables to the solenoid so why does it stay running if only 5.4 at battery 

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Does the stator create a ground when there is none on the quad with out a battery 

[BuggyMasters]

That may be enough (obviously) to keep it running at idle but under load it might not fly.

ground is through the mount to the engine. Doesn’t matter if you have battery or not.

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Yea but has to be created somewhere ground just dont come out of thin air especially for dc current now I'm a master electrician of ac and dc I no a ground just cant appear pole wires are connected to ground by earth ground which is just the neutral but ac is coming from generator in the bike then has a wire going to ground inside the stator that has to ground the one leg of the stator to create a ground to the quad 

[BuggyMasters]

That’s what I mean is it’s gotta come from somewhere in order for the path to exist. I am assuming the stator or rectifier provides it or something, I mean all four wheelers will run without a battery so they are getting it from something. Never really researched the details of from where.

[Frank Angerano]

Wow just got in from working on my project bike you guys covered a lot. Great topic discussion. So I’m assuming your going to order a new stator as discussed earlier and I think that’s going to solve this erratic voltage problem. We see a lot of people asking about wiring in an aftermarket stator that does not match up like an oem part. 

Hopefully this will solve your problem. 

Nice work so far and @BuggyMasters great input!!!!

Keep us posted! 

 

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

Theres a wire that bolts to the bike from the stator almost is cut through from the flywheel I'm buying a new stator no matter what but has to get a ground from some where in look. Fly wheel almost cut it through but when I first fire it up with a new voltage regulator today perfect 14.8v on dc side soon as I revved it up just a little stalled now I cant even get 7v on dc side so I'm getting a new stator screw all this and voltage regulator and going from there with American parts this is bs

[JacobSlabach]

Yo that's the first time I've seen that color in the sportsman 500s.  Looks good!!!

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

What are you talking about. What looks good I don't understand.

[BuggyMasters]

Yeah man sounds like that stator may be wreaking havoc. Will be watching the progress. You’ll be happy when this thing is done!!

[Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones]

I'll be relieved actually I swear I'm really good at working on bikes but I have to admit this is one that's gonna get the best of me or it will work right one of the 2 I will keep you guys informed 

Everytime I look online there all under $50 except for Ricky stator why