Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Wonderwoman

2000 Arctic Cat 300 4X4 - Won't Start

Recommended Posts

I am hoping that someone here can give me some more ideas. Our poor old red 300 won't start. We rode it, running fine, shut it off and now it won't start. Have gas to the carb and spark at the plug. Valves are adjusted. Still won't start. Tried a little starting fluid in the air chamber and still won't start. This poor old machine has 7000 miles on it. That has to be an Arctic Cat record! And I have never touched the engine besides setting the valves. Unfortunatly it looks like it only has 60 psi of compression. Don't understand how it could be running fine and then nothing. Someone give me a clue as to what I am missing or what to check. I was going to rebuild the top end this next spring but didn't want to do that this winter in a non-heated garage. Any help?:confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Those old Suzuki motors are famous for wearing the intake valve. Check the lash (.001-.003). If that valve is too tight, you'll loose compression. Also did you hold the throttle open when you did your compression check? They will read low if you don't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Change the spark plug anyways, sometimes it will spark outside but not under compression. Also try starting the quad in netural. Also make sure the battery is 100% charged.

Valve lash would be another thing to look into as stated above.

Don't worry 7k for an arctic cat is nothing.

I would also try heating the motor to see if it is just the cold weather do you have it in a garage? If not put a tarp over it with a large lightbulb under the tarp for a while and that should help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Valves are adjusted to spec. .005 intake, .010 exhaust. Will try the new spark plug and recheck the compression tomorrow and do have it in neutral. Is the timing adjustable on these? I thought I read in the manual that it is factory set and no adjustment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the newer ones timing is adjustable with a key but if it was running fine before I would stay away from major mods until you get it running again.

Keep the jetting and the timing as well as any other changes for later when you have it running and can see what each change does.

Does the motor crank over fine?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Redid compression and could get it up to 80 psi if you dump a little oil down the spark plug hole. Ok took the top end off this weekend. Found out the intake valve was almost loose. Could compress the springs with my thumbs to get the valve free and out of the head. Looks like the valve face has worn and is sitting low in the head. Any advice here since I have never done valve work on any small engine. If this is the issue then I will take it to a professional to have it redone. While I am this far I think I will put new rings on the piston as well. Piston looks great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Since squirting oil in the cylinder didn't raise the compression much, it's your call on the rings. If it wasn't smoking, don't know as I'd mess with them. (I realize compression rings and oil rings do different things.) But it sounds like the valve is the culprit. Having the head re-done professionally sounds like a good plan, IMHO.

If you do the head and put it back together and still have low compression, pulling the head a 2nd time will go faster because it's all fresh in your mind and you probably still have the tools right there. To do the cylinder right you would need to mic it and will probaly end up with new piston,

rings, and maybe even cylinder. Again, just MHO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The piston is low enough in the jug that I felt the cylinder wall. Smooth as a baby's behind. I would almost bet the machine on a valve issue. So for now it will be the valve job professionally done and see what happens. As much as I have read about these Arctic Cats and the valve issues I am hoping this takes care of it. Will let you know when I get the head back and put back together. Thanks for all the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry not a record, my 2007 400 hit 11,000 miles this past November.

Hopefully when the valve is fixed you will be back up & running.

Mike

I am hoping that someone here can give me some more ideas. Our poor old red 300 won't start. We rode it, running fine, shut it off and now it won't start. Have gas to the carb and spark at the plug. Valves are adjusted. Still won't start. Tried a little starting fluid in the air chamber and still won't start. This poor old machine has 7000 miles on it. That has to be an Arctic Cat record! And I have never touched the engine besides setting the valves. Unfortunatly it looks like it only has 60 psi of compression. Don't understand how it could be running fine and then nothing. Someone give me a clue as to what I am missing or what to check. I was going to rebuild the top end this next spring but didn't want to do that this winter in a non-heated garage. Any help?:confused:

PTDC0021 (Small).JPG

57d7734497dd1_PTDC0021(Small).JPG.0478b695a335b618c9e48c37f59cc19d.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, the head is in the shop. Got a new intake valve and two new valve oil seals. Machinist says everything else looks great. Will have it done in a week. Can't wait, hubby will be so happy to have his machine back and running again. As long as I am at it my 250 is acting the same so after we get the red one back together I am going to pull the head off my 250 and get it done right away. For less than $200 each to get these back up and running right it is well worth it. Maybe another 10 years will go by then with no issues. Still love the Arctic Cats even with the valve issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good price for the work being done. You should be in good shape after that. Should have many trouble free miles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Alright, the head is back on and it is running. Have a slight problem with idle and it wants to backfire if you have it reved up and let off the throttle. I am thinking these are all carb issues. Reset the valve clearance twice now since reinstalling the head. So looks like time to look at the carb to get the final issues worked out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man these Arctic Cats run no mater what is wrong with them. Found out the Pilot screw had vibrated out of the carb. In other words running with no Pilot screw. Have one ordered should be here Friday. This old machine won't know how to act. Glad that it has just been little things. Will let you know how it runs with a pilot screw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey everyone thanks for all the advice. The machine is running great now. Even took it up to the mountains and put 28 miles on it ridding double through mud and snow. Just can't keep a good Cat down. Now it is the 250's turn for a valve job. Got the head back on Wednesday and will go in tomorrow. Man I can't believe that they put such crappy intake valves in these motors. Well at least we should be good for another 5000 miles on these two.

Happy ridding to everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


OK the 250 is back together and running. I still have a carb issue on this one. It will run fine for a while then it acts like the choke is on. I have cleaned the carb twice now. Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, it was the choke inside the carb. Was gummy and sticking. So both the 250 and the 300 are up and running great. Can't wait to get to the mountains with them. It is antler hunting season. Thanks again for all the help.:biggrin:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Mike Johnson
      Does anyone know what the 3rd item is behind the battery on this ATV ? I know 1 is the,  solenoid1 is the CDI box, what is the 3rd.
    • By Daniel Gibson
      Working on a bayou 220 that has been ran extremely hard it's whole life. Literally had almost an inch thick dirt/oil covering the motor. Yeah that bad. Surprisingly it runs though. I cleaned the carb and tank multiple times. They're clean enough to eat off of. Readjusted valve lash and set timing. Was about 3 teeth off. It cranks good and runs good only problem is I have to cover the carb intake basically choking the hell out of it for it to start. The com choke works fine. It does this each time I start it regardless of temperature both ambient or motor. Wth? Compression is at 115psi I get 130s if I put a little oil in the piston chamber. Please help. Thanks 
    • By JC4x4
      My Honda Fourtrax won't start. The starter is kicking the engine over, but it won't start. It sat for about a year while I was living away, so I thought it might have been bad gas. I completely drained the fuel, flushed the fuel lines and filled it with fresh gas. However, still nothing. It started and ran fine the last time I used it. Any suggestions on how to diagnose this? It could be fuel or electrical at this point. Is there an easy way to rule one or the other out? Thanks
    • By Daniel Gibson
      Have a 08 raptor brought to me a couple months ago. Got it on a trade for house remodel. Bike has around 30 hours. No that's not a typo thirty verifiable hours. The main Yamaha tech has put hands on this bike. Always Been reallyhard to start. If it does it runs really good. That's the kicker...IF! It started out intermittent now it's no spark at all. Everything ignition related is brand new. It all checks out good but still won't do it. Please help
       
    • By Quadrunner44
      I have an older 1980s Suzuki quadrunner red lt 4wd (250)
      so just finished putting it all back together and was running fine just needed to adjust the rebuilt carb
      bf decides to hook up an air chuck to the gas tank because it got a shot of air in the gas line well 120psi didn’t agree with any of the parts including the new carb 
      end result : new battery new carb now it just clicks (one single click) won’t turn over 
      hard to pull start gets hung up (unless I remove the spark plug ) gas flooded out the first time but now does nothing purchases a new starter waiting the arrival 
      could there be damage to the crank shaft or pistons etc? Or install the new starter and try to fire it up ? What caused the starter to die after he flooded everything with gas was working fine. 
      Thank you 
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By JPEDRO
      So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
    • By Christian Brindle
      I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
      Old Cam: 
      New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
      Old Forum: 
       
       
      Thank You.
    • By johnwayne
      i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
      wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off. 
      facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
      so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
      is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
    • By skymankila69
      I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where  i can get a wiring diagram.
    • By quinnkaeb
      i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...