Frank Angerano

That’s a big concern to me. You may need to split that engine if you can free it up. Put a little pressure on spinning it in both directions to see if she moves as well as the gear shifter. Also does the crank turn freely as if the piston was stroking ? Don't put the head on until after you flush the motor because you can flip motor over to get the oil out and any big stuff will com out. Just use a big enough pan to turn the motor over so no big spillage happens.

Double check it’s installed properly and the pick up coils are properly in place. Go through all the plugs and make sure they are tight. Test the regulator and secondary coil. If all tests well then you have to think about swapping the cdi box.

Wow nice bike. Good luck with it.

Definitely flush the crank case out with cheap oil like we spoke about and open the clutch up and clean it good slap it back together with an adjustment. Reassemble it and see what it does. What do you have to loose other then gaskets and time.

Sounds great just don’t go crazy on the cylinder. A few passes is all it takes. On another note the valve springs, when you put the retainer clip in to hold the valve make sure it’s in right. They fly off and it’s gone!

I would drain the oil, pull the cover and inspect everything. Maybe an adjustment or new plates and springs might be in order. Who knows what the previous did. He may have beat it up a bit. But I would definitely take a look inside.

That’s just my opinion though, honestly I like both bikes but I get why you like the trx.

Reliable would be the factory oem trx in my opinion just based on the not having to tear into the motor. Second is the suspension changes as well. The TRX has a different suspension set up so you would have to make adjustments to your existing set up not just the engine. When a bike takes off the as* drops and the bike launches. The less the drop the quicker the bike takes off having very little delay. The trx is built to have less travel on rear end during the acceleration. I think you would get used to the trx real quick and maybe add an aftermarket set of bars and set it up with a wider tire.

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment and Test Tool, Powered (4 Adapters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QD2BG86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zr4TCbPSQEB0X maybe this will help.

I believe you asked this a while back ?????

Great. Let us know how it goes. Good luck.

Good point about getting wheel off of the ground and double checking. I good sign is while riding make a slow U turn in both directions and you should hear a clicking sound if it’s the front end. As far as bank you usually have to get the wheels off the ground and see what kind of play you have. Sometimes you hear a click when you take off but it’s hard to notice with engine noise. Youtube it and you will find plenty of videos on this work.

I’ve always had luck with Caltric. I know a few ppl have said they weren’t happy. To date on starors only I’ve been happy. They always matched up and held up. That’s the only aftermarket part that i would purchase. I only buy oem otherwise for all other parts. They make it well but then again it's only a stator coil. It’s not rocket science building stators.

If your hearing the click when you press the shift button then rule out the electrical end of things. It’s working! Most likely a broken gear or the shifter solenoid armature that’s not working.

Here are some diagrams to the bike. Get through these tests and if the stator fails I guess we have to see how one would wire the after market stator in.

The stator should have three wires. The pick up usually has two. Post some pics of the areas and plugs. It helps a lot.

Def check the stator coil resistance reading and see what you have. My feeling is the stator is bad. Should be NO continuity from each wire to ground. Then wire to wire should read close in numbers and within range of the spec.

You checked the stator coil resistance? If so what was the reading? Have you checked the usual suspects like the kill switch, bad fuses and the secondary coil going to the spark plug ? Also have you looked at the regulator.

Wow that’s a tough problem to help out with since there are a lot of the screws you described in that engine. If they are all the same size that’s the only good thing as maybe they all belong to one part or one location like a clutch or engine cover of some sort. I would go back through it all and see where you left it out. ESP after doing all that work.

Buy a dog collar tracking device and strap it to the bike!

That sucks about the gasket kit. I thought it had everything in it. As far as the break drum goes it’s common for the moving parts to seize up after sitting. Take the wheels off and the drum if you can. Spray some penetration oil or WD 40 spray the parts down. Try not to get anything on the brake shoes. Pick up some lithium grease or graphite grease. Graphite grease does not collect dust and use it on the reassembly putting it on all the moving parts. Just a bit though. You don’t want globs of this all over in the brake drums. Double check all the springs are good and not broken or on the verge of breaking. If the pads are good sand them down a little bit with a 150 grit piece of sand paper just to rough them up a little bit.

What’s the heck happened to the rear that it has a hole ?

It looks like a prairie. Not 100% sure though. Is that a patch on the rear differential? That white spot?

I have. It’s an auction for motorcycles, dirt bikes and ATVs. It was a Police auction. Pretty cool but you can’t touch, only look so you have no clue about the engine. I picked up a kx 250 one time that was in excellent condition for $400 bucks. As soon as I got my hands on it I found out the engine was completely destroyed Inside. 😢never the less I managed to get the new engine for another $600 and it worked great but I have to say it was fun to be at the auction.

That’s a bummer about the part. Hopefully you get the right one and get er done!