Frank Angerano

If the starter spins freely with power applied to it then it may be good. But be aware that sometimes it will spin without the load of the engine on it. So just because it spins in a bench test does not mean for sure it’s good. Also try to turn the motor if there is a pull start. If not take the spark plug out and one of the side covers off and try to spin the motor by turning the flywheel or clutch.

Your getting the sparks most likely due to only a couple of things. 1. Bad starter or brushes inside the starter. 2. The engine is locked up. 3. The starter gear is jammed up or broken. I would pull the starter and bench test it with a battery.

Yep!!!

I cleaned it up a little bit for you as well as did some studying. It’s a little different from my model but still pretty straight foreword. Hope this helps. If you have any questions let me know. If it’s not clear then private message me and I will email it to you.

I love his avatar! Welcome back.

@Jcolgin can you post a few pics of the spark arrester ? I want to see how it broke off. This way we can give you some help/suggestions.

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Edcl54 !!!!

Your all very welcome. Big thanks to Quadcrazy by putting us all in one big room (the forum) so we can show our toys off and meet great people and help out and get help when needed. #Quadcrazy #Topnotchforum #happyeaster

Are you positive of the year and size of the bike ? I’m looking at a few diagrams and I’m not seeing this wire configuration for some reason.

You guys keep up the hard work lol the videos are great. As much as I love riding the trails and through the woods and go as hard as I can I feel like @Yamaha Grizzly @mikeexplorer @Gunny Really push the limits with exceptional videos. Aka off road dan with the YouTube specials !! It all makes for for great fun and enjoying the outdoors. Sometimes expensive but enjoyable. Keep it up. 👊🏻

Either or. My guess is the rings and if so then might as well throw a new piston in. But do your research before you start tearing into it and ordering parts. Test and process of elimination. Head gaskets etc. a compression test will tell you a lot. Also keep in mind that you can shut the gas off, take the wire off of the spark plug. Spray the top half of the engine down with a soapy soliton and crank the engine. You would see bubbles if something is pushing air out of the engine like a head gasket.

Can you post a few pics of the existing stator coil and pick up coils including the plugs and color of the wires.

The intermittent spark thing really sounds like a bad connection. I would open the stator cover and check that there is no rust or corrosion on or around the stator/magneto. Check all plugs and before you plug them back in add dielectric grease to the plugs. If the bike is cranking when you hit the starter then the starter safety relay circuit is working. Easy way to test it to put the bike in gear and try to crank it. It should not crank. The stator coil should should read from wire to wire about the same ohms. And should NOT read anything from each wire to ground. I have to go back and look at the pick up coil and stator coil numbers to see where your at as far as readings. This should be your working diagram. Let me know if you need any clarification on the map.

The black plug could be two things. One is a need to adjust the carb maybe two rich. Second is its fouled up from oil blow by if the rings are on the way out. Possibly from over reving. I would try a couple of things. First and foremost I would take a compression reading and see what you have. Should be well over 90 possibly to 110. If not then there is a problem like rings or a seal. Secondly is a slight carb adjustment on the air fuel screw. The last thing I would also do is ride the bike and wait until it gets that hard to start condition and have a new spark plug ready to go. Pop it in (don’t get burnt changing it ) and see if the bike fires right up. If so then it’s most likely an oil foiled condition. As far as the smoking on the head when oil burns off if it’s leaking from the head it’s hard to spot because it burns right up. But the over reving is not good at all and could have blew a seal or wore the hell out of the rings.

Ok great. Post some pics when the bike is all together and running good. Ride safe.

i am not home now I will send one later on today. I’m sure you can look up images on line. I think the part number is G119 but I’m not 100 percent sure. Look it up on YouTube also there should be a video showing an image of what it looks like.

It may be something caught in between the gears jamming it but that piece jamming and it most likely is a broken gear tooth! 😢 If you can’t get it to spin then you might have to split it but be prepared with the gears and seals it’s not a simple task.

That’s a big concern to me. You may need to split that engine if you can free it up. Put a little pressure on spinning it in both directions to see if she moves as well as the gear shifter. Also does the crank turn freely as if the piston was stroking ? Don't put the head on until after you flush the motor because you can flip motor over to get the oil out and any big stuff will com out. Just use a big enough pan to turn the motor over so no big spillage happens.

Double check it’s installed properly and the pick up coils are properly in place. Go through all the plugs and make sure they are tight. Test the regulator and secondary coil. If all tests well then you have to think about swapping the cdi box.

Wow nice bike. Good luck with it.

Definitely flush the crank case out with cheap oil like we spoke about and open the clutch up and clean it good slap it back together with an adjustment. Reassemble it and see what it does. What do you have to loose other then gaskets and time.

Sounds great just don’t go crazy on the cylinder. A few passes is all it takes. On another note the valve springs, when you put the retainer clip in to hold the valve make sure it’s in right. They fly off and it’s gone!

I would drain the oil, pull the cover and inspect everything. Maybe an adjustment or new plates and springs might be in order. Who knows what the previous did. He may have beat it up a bit. But I would definitely take a look inside.

That’s just my opinion though, honestly I like both bikes but I get why you like the trx.

Reliable would be the factory oem trx in my opinion just based on the not having to tear into the motor. Second is the suspension changes as well. The TRX has a different suspension set up so you would have to make adjustments to your existing set up not just the engine. When a bike takes off the as* drops and the bike launches. The less the drop the quicker the bike takes off having very little delay. The trx is built to have less travel on rear end during the acceleration. I think you would get used to the trx real quick and maybe add an aftermarket set of bars and set it up with a wider tire.