Frank Angerano

It should hold fine. Ride safe.

It may have been correctly timed in the first place. Did you check the manual ? Maybe reset it to where it was. But check the manual about the alignment before yo do all this. It’s important.

I read that you gave the cranking voltages on the first post. NOT cranking voltages.Ohms reading on the coils like a said in my last post. This will at least put the coils in spec. This should also be done on the rectifier/regulator. I remember a similar topic on this and it turned out to be a pick up coil that was the problem. Is was a hair to far from the flywheel and on higher rpms is started to act up causing this problem. It was in the Polaris forum. I would not be surprised if it’s the same thing. It was a while ago but should still be in the topics section of that forum. Maybe @Ajmboy or @Admin can help us dig it up? I believe it was the gap between the pick up coil and flywheel. There is a spec limit on that.

Yes my truck fits, no issues with room to spare. I’m also looking for a new trailer. 6x12 would work perfect. As long as performance is not an issue I can live with the projection of the tires out 2 more inches.

Wow I see that!! It looks more then 2 inches. Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. You’ve come to the right place for what you need. Good luck with the project. Post some pics!!!!

Welcome to Quadcrazy brother. Quite a collection you are working on. I can only imagine what a gsxr engine would do on a quad frame. Im sure you will find this forum entertaining as well as have plenty of input. Ride safe !

Here’s a diagram I think is for your bike. Double check the colors on the wires to verify. It’s best to print it out and highlight the wires in different colors to separate.

What’s up Jordan welcome to Quadcrazy. Were the wires cut and removed or cut and spliced or just cut and In need of splicing? Everything is color coated so if it’s splicing then it’s not to bad. Get yourself a good splice kit in the mean time. One that seals when heated like the one I posted below. It’s a big help. All you need to do is put the wires in and heat it up.

It all depends. If you change tires etc. I don’t think there’s much if a difference on a bike that size plus the weight of your kid. Should be fine. Stand back and look at the from end see how the wheels look. Also have him sit on it and see how the wheels look. Then have him lean down a bit to push the front end down to see if they change. But over all I think it’s set up fine and let it be.

Welcome to Quadcrazy The rear shock is normal to release slowly. So no worries there. The two sets of holes are for height and wheel adjustment. If you go to the top hole the front end sites a hair lower and the wheel base will may lean a little inward at the top. When you go to the lower hole it helps the front end sit higher and the wheels may lean outward at the top but level off when you sit on the bike.

Have you tried to adjust the valves ?

You found the marks on the sprocket and head ?

There should be a tensioner bolt ? Loosen and reset. But if it’s tight I don’t honk it would jump. Are you 100% sure it jumped ?

Yes but you have to check the tensioner or maybe the chain is stretched. If it jumps again and any further the valves will collide with the piston and it’s over.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

I’ve done it in 2 hours not by choice and it worked great. Honestly... I would wait 24. Also remember to clean the area with a little carb cleaner to make sure all the oil away from the area. Just a little shot will do. Dry it with a rag.

Not sure on the spec but I would just make it tight and go a hair more for now. You won’t strip or break anything. It would take a good amount to do that.

Have you tried to tighten the bolt down? Maybe loosen it up and put some high heat silicone on it and re tighten. Do the other bolts have the same washer ? Might as well check all of them while your at it.

Could be the cdi but not my first choice. I would do some testing first. Maybe test some devices like the pick up coil for starters. Also the stator coil maybe do an ohms test as well look at the secondary ignition coil. Sometimes the spark breaks down after the engine is hot or in your case maybe it’s happening right away. There is a tool to see if the spark is breaking down while the bikes running. Its a useful tool. I know we are talking about electrical items are you sure it’s not a foiled plug or a fuel rich condition happening ? Or timing ? Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STSC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ebj1CbF42SW39

Welcome to Quadcrazy. What bolt is it you are referring to ? Only bolt that should have that type washer is the oil drain plug. Maybe post a picture of the bolt and area on the bike.

Double check that its not a separate set of wires in the handle bar. As well as trace them to be sure they are disconnected. Or do what I did. Reconnect everything and then open the top cover on the throttle and run the bike. While is backfiring etc separate the contacts on the throttle control and see if it clears. Only reason I’m pushing this theory is it happened to my bike and solved the problem.

Handlebars. The throttle have wires going into it? If so open it up and you will find the rev limiter. Try to separate the wires and see if that clears things up. Sometimes on the polaris bikes the rev limiter starts acting up.

Nice work!

Can you post a few pics of the stator side of the engine.