Frank Angerano

Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse. What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point then turn the screw back Just a hair. If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs.

@JacobSlabach if the coolant is pure and clean you will clearly see the green or whatever color coolant blobs in the oil. If it’s mostly water then you will see the standard grayish color with some of the coolant streaks in it. There is also a pressure tester cap that has a pump connection on it to pump air into the system to pressure test it.

Looks great. Was that just a standard ball and hitch connection ? 1-7/8” I like the stone henge rocks along the opposite side of that roadway.

Where did you find that number it looks like it’s short a few numbers and letters. There should be a number on the lower left front frame rail. Try to take a look and see if you missed numbers.

Wow thats great. What did you wind up doing on that. You have to be super careful with that situation to not bark the corner off. If you can’t get a screw that fits then carefully drill it out and use a small screw with a nut and lock washer.

That is the same side as the water pump correct ? If so then yes you would see coolant leaking into the engine if bolts are removed from that cover or if there is a gasket failure.

Have you checked timing ?

Did you check the gap on the pick up coil ? Your going to feel like your spinning your wheels and it gets frustrating. Keep calm and it will get sorted out. Some problems are more in-depth then others. Process of elimination.

It’s a blue type light.

My ranchers. It’s a high tensity bike light. Very bright and very cool. Lift kit and tires/rims are on the way. Posting some pics as we go.

Nice work. I swapped out my headlights today with the led super bright. Amazon $15.00. Love them. Talk a look.

Have you been to the download section and successfully downloaded a manual before ?

Good thread @JacobSlabach Compression readings all vary on the size of the engine. (CC = cubic centimeters) which is a metric unit to measure the engine's capacity or its volume. So a 90 CC engine would generally have lower compression based on the size of the piston (volume) inside the cylinder head. A larger CC would produce more volume which creates a larger reading. Every engine has a CC size and a compression value in the manual that states what the acceptable range is for peak performance. Low compression stems from a few things. Bad valve seals. Oil in the head leaks down through the valve stem into the cylinder head and burns up upon the compression stroke leaving a blue smoke. bad piston/rings. Oil seeps up past the rings from pressure built up by the compression leaking into the engine past the rings and causes the same smoke condition but less smoke is seen because the vertical climb the oil has to make up into the cylinder head. Blown head gasket. This allows compression to be lost by escaping the cylinder. Easy way to find it is a soapy spray all around the top end. You will see bubbles during the cranking if the engine and you can also hear it if you crank the engine by hand slowly. Warped or cracked head/cylinder from excessive heat. The head and cylinder cannot meet flush and therefore a void allows air to escape. Same type of test with the soapy water.

Possibly, just keep in mind it could be just the valve seal. I always like to proceed with caution on my work. If the valves can be exposed and you can see the seals then you can crank the engine and take a Q tip, make up a good soapy solution with dish soap. Dab it around the valve seals. You will see bubbles around the rubber seal as you crank it. You don’t need a lot of soapy water. Just enough to coat the rubber. Any bubbles then it’s a bad set of seals. Change them all and change the oil after ward.

What is it exactly your looking for on that bike? I used to own one and had the carburetor off a few times. I don’t remember any vacuum lines etc only fuel and vent lines.

Also what size is that trailer?

Good idea by rebuilding. Nothing like the real deal. If you need any help let us know. Take a compression reading and see how that goes. Maybe just valve seals might be in order.

I see that. I will definitely keep that in mind. How’s that trailer working out ? I watched the promo video again on there site. What’s the price range for the trailer you have ?

The cheaper carbs look, fit, and will work to get the bike running. The minute you take off and ride the bike starts to sputter and break down. You will spend hours trying to dial it in with very frustrating results. Not worth the aggravation. What’s wrong with the OEM carb? It looks like it’s all there. Take it apart and rebuild it.

Definitely going to need a carb cleaning. Bike looks clean! Make sure you put an in line gas filter in just to make sure nothing in the tank or gas valve gets into the carburetor.

Ok so your timing is there. Get after it. Tensioner is there as well.

Not sure if this is your bike.

What year is that bike and the size ? Vin# Should be on the front frame cross bar in between the wheels

Upper right side of page drop menu. Manuals etc.

Once you install a carb kit (rebuild) things change within the performance of the carburetor. Going back to the original setting means noting other then getting a starting point for adjusting. Do this and see if it helps: Start the bike up and let it warm up. Take the choke off and let the bike idle. Start to turn the fuel air mixture screw in either direction (My guess would be out). Your looking for the engine to start to rev higher. That’s a good thing! Keep going and as the engine reaches it’s sweet spot you will know because it will start to decrease revving if you go to far. So once the engine stops revving higher and starts to break up a little stop! Turn the screw back maybe 1/4 turn. Then you can lower the IDLE screw and get the engine to level off to a healthy idle. See how the bike runs after that. My guess would be somewhere around the 2 to 2-1/4 turns out would be where it needs to be.