Frank Angerano

Welcome to Quadcrazy, you will find everything you need here to help you get that bike back to good. Good luck on the rebuild.

Great update and great work on the carb. The wires you are referring to are the stator coil. The three yellow that are bundled up are coming from the stator coil. The blue and green are from the pick up coil. Simple test, fluke meter on ohms. Test each one of the yellow wires to ground. Should get no reading on any of them. If so it’s a dead short and coil is bad. Second test is going from one yellow wire to the other. You should get an equal ohms reading from wire to wire. And that reading should be with range of what’s listed in the manual. The pick up coil is the same test. There is an ohm range in the manual. Start there and see how that goes.

That is the secondary that you ordered. Hopefully that’s the problem. I think it is but I’ve been wrong before. I’m surprised that 1200 rpm is the norm. I would have figured 1000 max.

I would change the secondary coil and spark plug wire. You can test the coil first but it’s cheap enough to replace. Don’t forget the wire also.

I see that. Did the new wire up work ?

Yes I do. I think the bike is picking up stray voltage. Most of the lights have a diode built into the lights. It’s a check valve if you will for electrical. Allows the flow of electricity to go only one way.

I was going to say to go over it all again and bench test it before you wrap it up again. Maybe give it a direct feed from the battery with a fuse. The wires on the switch are only interrupting the red wire without the really and with the relay your sending 12 volts to the relay to bring the relay in correct ?

Did the light come with a diagram? If so screen shot it and post it please. The only reason I’m thinking your getting an indicator light is it’s picking up an external draw on the system. This code does not come up with the winch in use ?

Ok well it’s most likely something to do with the wiring then. I don’t think it’s mechanical and more so electronic. Best bet is to start looking at and studying the electrical diagram and highlight all wires related to the 4x4 change over. I can give you a hand with that once you know for sure the year. Check the vin# and run it. See what comes back. Then we find the right manual and start to dissect the electrical diagram and you can do some testing if your familiar with using a tester. Maybe start with the push button changeover and make sure it’s working and go from there.

It looks great and the price is right per day. Trying to figure out some dates to get out again soon. As far as the jumping jack I have spoken to a rep and info is coming in the mail so hopefully I will make a decision soon. Ride safe brother.

Gotcha. Well good luck and ride safe.

That’s good and bad news! Glad to hear it’s in and sad to hear you snapped a bolt. How the heck did you drop the key way in the engine and what’s your plan for dealing with the bolt that snapped? It never fails something always has to happen! I just sold my bayou unfortunately but I got a good price for it so I could not say no. I’m going to pick up a newer bike for my little guy.

Wow that’s a lot of miles on the bike #workhorse. What year is the bike and what’s the 4x4 shifter look like? Is it electrically or mechanically switched?

Welcome to Quadcrazy. Just to clarify, you wired the light bar to what switch, existing light switch or a new independent light switch? Secondly did you ground the black wire from the light bar to the battery or attached to the frame of the bike or is it connected to the wiring system?

First off welcome to Quadcrazy. That’s a lot of money for what you need done. If your mechanically inclined you can work on the bike yourself and save a ton. It’s also an old bike so I’m sure you paid very little for it so you don’t want to put too much into it. YouTube has tons of videos to help you along as well as the members her at Quadcrazy. Parts are available from eBay or aftermarket. But again this all depends on how much you can do yourself.

If they are drum brakes I would check the weep holes on the bottom of the drum assembly. If they get clogged up then the water or mud gets stuck inside the drum.

Looking good @mikeexplorer really diggin the jumping jack trailer. Seriously looking into one. Spoke to a rep last week. They deliver them! I’ve been looking at all the videos and features available. That looks like a great place to ride. I checked out there web page and it’s about 3.5 hours from me. Maybe a long weekend trip for me and my boys.

Welcome to Quadcrazy, sounds like one of two things. Starter relay or the starter. If you can, locate the starter relay. I attached a pic of what it should look like. It should be near the battery. The red wire + positive is coming off the battery and going to the relay. From the relay the wire goes to the starter. The relay has two big nuts on top holding the wires on it. You can take a piece of wire and jump the two wires. Make sure it’s a good size piece of wire and only do it for a few seconds. See if the starter cranks. If so then the relay is most likely bad. If not then you can take a tester and put one lead (red) on the wire at the starter. Take the second lead (black) and put it on the negative terminal (black) on the battery. Hit the start button. If you see 12v at the tester that means you have voltage at the starter and need a new starter. Hope this helps.

Welcome to Quadcrazy, have you checked the clutch? There are plates and springs that over time or over abuse wear out. May need an adjustment or replacement parts As far as the hard shift goes I would ask if the rpms are up? Maybe lower the idle and see if that changes anything Check out the repair manual and you will find exactly what’s involved inside the manual in order to repair.

Makin work of that. Nice stuff, now the wait for the pets starts. Hate that part. Well it looks like your doing great. Keep us posted. Good luck.

Better off with the puller. Im surprised that the spec is that low. I would have expected 110 to 150 psi.

You would have to research that and see how many complaints or problems came up. $50 bucks is a great price. Just take your time and be patient. Maybe do some YouTube searches and see what comes up.

Wow that sucks. But yes overall a new side case will be in order. Not a bad deal other then the labor sore of it. New gasket kit complete kit. Might as well bc you never know what you will need going down the road. I like to take a big piece of cardboard and stick the bolts in the cardboard and mark down where it came from with a sharpie, keeps it easy to keep track. Pressure wash the sh** out of everything before you tear into it so it’s somewhat clean. Keep us posted and take lots of pics as you go.

I would definitely pull the carburetor again and do a proper rebuild. You can look on YouTube if your not sure. There are a ton of videos there. You need to really make sure all jets and passage ways are clear. Pick up a small can of the compressed air with the small red hose on the tip to blow out the ports on the carb. Adjustments on two screws. 1. Air/fuel screw should be about 1-3/4 turns out from a snug position and you would adjust from there as the bike is running. Also a video on you tube for that as well. 2. Idle screw and that’s only adjusted after your air/fuel screw is set. There is one more adjustment on the carburetor and that’s the main needle jet. It’s the slide inside the carburetor that’s connected to the throttle. There is a needle inside and it has a clip on it you have to make sure it’s not in a lean position. Find out what notch the clip is on. Both of the screw adjustments need to be done with the air box on and closed up as of it were ready to ride. Pop a new plug in as well.

Nice work on the bike. Is that gas filter going on the right direction ? There is an arrow on it indicating the direction of flow, If yes then to relocate it so it’s in a vertical position.