Frank Angerano

Ok so what’s bad most likely is the reverse cam, not the neutral safety switch. Ive attached pics of the reverse cam. On that revers cam there is a small pin that’s spring loaded. That spring loaded pin is what touches the electrical tab on the neutral safety switch. Over time the spring collapses and does not make contact. Good news: it’s cheap to fix parts wise bad news: the bevel gear housing that covers that switch can only be removed with the engine raised up off of the frame or the engine pulled.

No prob !

If so take the light green wire coming from the harness not from the wires coming out of the switch and add a ground to it and see if the bike cracks and the light comes on. If so there’s a problem within the neutral safety switch or contact point on the reverse cam.

If it runs well your good to go. Some people just don’t change oil and it gets black. I would change it a few more times using a cheaper oil at first and then go to a better oil on the last change that’s going to be your running oil. And from there just stay on top of it over time.

Yes it should. There are two wires coming up out of the engine by the shifter? Light green and red ?

Sounds like the fuseable link is bad. I would try to run a thick wire from the battery to the starter and see if it cranks but only bump it for a second. If it does then the line going to the starter is bad or the in line fuseable link. I would start there. If not then maybe the motor is seized or the starter is bad.

No sir, that about covers it, nice work. That will add a lot of extra years to a bike. Ride safe !

Yes for sure. Always a good idea to do a secondary oil change after a job like that. Plus I like to add grease to the lobes of the cam and valve rockers etc and run my finger around the cylinder with a little grease as well. This will relieve some initial start up friction.

Electrical will prob be fine. My guess is they ran it out of oil.

Wow 😮 wtf! Thats insane, great work so far brother.

I really don’t think there is anything else to change!! Nice work. Let’s just hope this is the problem.

Nice work. Ride safe brother.

Only shortcut is to be a paid member. You will get to 10 posts. Just don’t do what other dummy’s do and start to post dumb stuff looking to get to 10.

They both should fit. I just looked on amazon and there are a few. SPM Dual Stage Air Filter for Yamaha Timberwolf 250 Big Bear 350 Moto-4 350 250 Kodiak 400 Replace 1YW-14451-00-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GNYEVYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l-T.CbBP44W4B

Haha I love it. Not sure where your from but pouring here also in NY. Make sure the valve cover bolts come off and go back there respective holes. There should be a few different lengths. Post some pics as you go.

What the heck might as well do a little custom work. That’s one of the best things about working on these older bikes. You can modify, customize etc and not worry if it gets screwed up. eBay has a ton of stuff which is great. Now the wait starts for shipping!!! Hate that part! Good luck with the work.

That’s great news. Ride safe.

The readings seem low. Did you review the manual to see the acceptable range ? And the pick up coil readings ?

Could have been a conversation kit added or a change over year where the manufacturer added disc brakes. But yes the premise is the same with regard to bleeding.

Should be just a breather hose for the head assembly. Some of them ran to the air box but I don’t know if you still have that in place due to the type of set up on that kart.

Ultrasonic cleaners are great but they don’t always get the heavy stuff out. You still need to get in there to clean the jets/small ports out.

Nice work so far. That vent line coming off the carb is just that, a vent line. It usually wraps right up by the gas tank under the plastics. There should be another one coming off the bottom of the carburetor bowl and that one is routed down the frame to the bottom of the bike. The vent hose on the gas cap is usually stuck in a hole on the dash board and does not connect to anything other then the cap. The air duct your referring to is probably an aftermarket snorkel that should have extended up in front of the handle bars. It’s for riding in deep water that allows air to continually flow into the air box. That’s my guess anyway. Post some pics and we will let you know for sure. That plug your adding back to the dash I see you figured out, nice work. Hopefully the new plug will wires right up and your good to go. Do you have the wire diagram for that bike ?

I’m confused. What are you looking for exactly?

I hope it’s something along those lines and not deeper like a main Bering. I would start to look at a few different parts on eBay just to get the ball rolling and see what’s out there. Taking the valve cover off is not a big job. Plastics and gas tank go first and then you can pull the cover. Good luck and keep us posted.