Frank Angerano

Welcome to Quadcrazy, I had a similar problem in my bayou 400. The knock turned out to be a worn out cam journal. If your problem is the same this is what I did. I had to pull the valve cover off exposing the cam. You will see the opposite side of the cam, the end without the sprocket. It will look worn discoloring and scored. Also the valve cover itself will look worn where the cam sits. The knocking is the back end of the cam flopping around. The valves don’t operate right and I lost power. Maybe this is the same problem as yours maybe not. It took me a little while to isolate the knock but either way the engine had to come apart just to start looking in the engine. I wound up finding a used head and cam in excellent condition and installed it with fresh valve seals and I was good to go. I thought the reason this happened was because the oil pump was failing and maybe not pumping oil to the head. I checked it and no problem. But double check yours.

That great. I’ve walked into so many places and no was the answer. Then you walk into the right guy that says yea I can splice that! Thats great news brother. Little by little, keep at it. Keep us posted and the pics coming!!

Forget by hand and rotating the motor. Testing on the stator can be done without rotating the engine. Ohms tests done on a standing stator phase to phase and then each phase to ground. First test Phase to phase (each wire from the stator) should be equal when you test from one phase to another and do all of them. They should be pretty close to each other on an ohms setting. The manual will tell you what the range should be. Second test: Take one phase of the stator (one wire) on the tester and the other tester probe to ground. You should get no reading on the tester. Do that for all three wires. If you do then there is a short within the coils on the stator. No need to test any more, it’s bad! Third test Pick up coil put the tester on ohms and on the two wires of the pick up coil. You should get a reading. Check the manual and it will show you what the acceptable range is.

Stator or starter is bad ? And the stator you tested phase to phase and. Then each leg to ground ? If so what did you get ?

Ok when you get the new stator and its installed let’s recap and go over it all again. Did you find the year ? And if so a wire diagram ?

I’m confused. You did all this work and your not getting a charge? That’s strange, what kind of testing on the charging system are you doing? Have you checked the rectifier/regulator ? First off I would locate the vin# and do a check this way you can find the exact year. Tons of web sites to check for free. Honestly I would put a new stator/pick up coil in. I use a brand called Caltric on eBay or amazon. About $75 bucks. They have always fit and worked well. You should also check that everything is turning inside the engine in order to produce current at the coil. When the cover is off spin the engine and make sure rotation is good.

Have you tried raising the rear wheels off of the ground to see if it revs?

Awesome. Let us know brother. Curious to see how this works out.

Keyword the exact one you have on eBay. See what comes up

I have a feeling your right. So now what? I would buy it and see how it fits up. Maybe a guess but I think it will be good to go.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163598132368 maybe it’s the one?

It’s hard to say but I would guess the last two years before and after would fit that. Just look up the part and compare the plugs. They should be noticeable as far as fit up. But before you replace everything do some testing and check the stator and pick up coils first. If your handy with a tester let us know and we will walk you through it.

Hey brother nice find for $100 bucks. If that timing was out a lot then the valves and piston could have collided. Not likely based on what it looks like in the pics. The timing chain tensioner CAN come out without anything falling inside the engine. Reset the timing and adjust the valves. Then do a compression test and let us know what you have. If your about 90psi or better great. Check the carburetor is adjusted right and the engine runs good. Then see how it runs. If the bike is not moving but the engine is reving then it may be a clutch adjustment or replacement. Start there first and get back.

Yep looks that way. Got it out ok ?

I would start by rebuilding the oem carb. Put that back on. The cheap carbs are sh**. Check the gap at the pick up coil as well as test the pick up coil. How’s the fuel delivery system? Pump or gravity ?

That’s correct !

Well done! Very well done! Looks great, very happy to hear and see the pics. Everyone on Quadcrazy that wants to see what you can do for a few hundred bucks should look here. Nice looking bike. Can’t wait to see the next project.

Awesome stuff. I would recommend changing the water pump while your in there. That bike was fun to work on. The valve cover bolts 8mm there are quite a few different lengths that go on that cover so be sure about the way they go back. Be super careful with the water temp sensor wire, they break off easy. Use a lot of grease on the parts, cam, lobes etc prior to start up and crank the engine without the spark plug in for a few seconds each time so you pump oil up to the head. Other then that I think your right on par. Good luck. Post some dam pics I love pics!!!!

If you contact the manufacturer of that screw set up they have all the info on bikes and carbs you have.

That would apply to the older bikes. The newer bikes are much more intricately designed with regard to electrical safety. So adding anything to the wiring adds an amperage draw to the system which is outside its normal draw and will throw a code out onto the dash. It will also lock out the ecm. This way no wires burn up.

That’s correct. It’s a shaft that goes down and inside the cover and pushed the clutch open. Check the manual for the schematic. I have a feeling somethings missing in there.

Have you moved the clutch arm at the engine and see if there’s any spring action? If you follow the cable down to the engine you will find it leads to a small armature. That is what brings the clutch in and out try to manually move it with your hand or a pair of channel locks. It should move in one direction and release on its own. If not then there’s a problem within the clutch or the armature that pulls the clutch in on the inside of the cover. While the bike is not running try this. You can raise the rear wheels off of the ground and put it in first gear. Try to spin the wheels and you should get resistance from the engine. Then move that armature in and see if the rear wheels spin. They should spin somewhat freely.

Your welcome. That part your pointing to is your cam chain tensioner. If it’s in the way of the statue then you can remove it and put it back. However.... once it’s out do not rotate the engine because that tensioner keeps pressure (tension) on your timing chain. Rotating the engine while the tensioner is out can allow the chain to jump and throw the timing off. So pull the tensioner out do what you have to do and put it back in.

It really seems to me that you have a poor connection someplace. If the battery is fresh then your loosing power within the harness. I would go get some dielectric grease and start taking plugs apart and cleaning. Then add grease to the plug and reconnect. Then go to the starter relay and loosen the main battery cables on both lugs, clean and re tighten. Make sure your battery wires are not broken at the crimped part where the connector is on all ends. Check the main ground wire. Loosen it up clean and tighten. Lastly is it’s possible that one of your relays weather it be the main starting relay or the neutral safety relay may be bad. Both are not expensive and easy to change. But start with your connections first.

I had a feeling. Whenever there a change over period things kinda get crossed over to the newer models at the end of an era if you will. It’s actually a good thing for you. Ok cool. Let us know how you make out.