Frank Angerano

Perfectly normal. Just be patient you will get it right and learn a lot while doing it to help the next guy.

Play around with it or post it for parts on letgo or cl.

Why a full rebuild ? If it was flooded with water you can drain it all out and soak it in fresh oil for a little bit. Espically if your pulling the head anyway. As long as there aren’t any holes in the engine it may have just been under water. Did you notice if the exhaust was full of water?

This should clear things up.

It’s going to take a little time but it will get dialed in. Just keep at it. It’s a pain in the as*!

Did you adjust the float enough? In my last post I said set it was set to low, I meant high. Is it possable that it still needs a slight adjustment ? It might need a hair more. Also be careful with the back fires and that fuel in the air box. A back fire can easily lead to the leftover gas in the air box to ignite and catch fire. Have you messed around with main jet needle at all? If anything maybe you can lower the needle one notch but if it was in that position prior to working on it then I would leave it. lastly have you pulled the spark plug to see what the color looks like ? It’s a good indicator on how the bike is running.

Prob best thing you did was move that bike along to a new owner @JacobSlabach. That clutch housing on this bike is in bad shape. When that clutch looks like that It’s basically the same thing as letting your brake pads on a car run down to the metal. It destroys the rotor and metal shavings get everywhere. That primary housing should have some meat on the inside for the clutch to grab. The secondary is prob ok but the metallic shavings need to be cleaned out.

Honestly you or anyone else with any bit of basic knowledge can build a new wire harness from scratch. All it takes is the wiring diagram, a few different color highlighters and some basic #14 or #16 gauge stranded wire in various colors. About 8 feet of each color. A connector kit from amazon and electrical tape. You can bring a smaller copy if your diagram to staples or any other office supply place and ask them for a large copy, 11x17 or larger. It’s about $3 bucks for that and really makes it easier to see in large format. Highlight all the colors on the diagram to make is easier to identify. This also applies when it comes to sorting out someone else’s mess on an existing wiring harness. The key is to highlight each run of wire with individual colors. This was you know what and where things go and if something’s missing or added that does not belong.

I run a half pound less of what the rating is just for comfort. Takes a little bit of the rough ride out. I also use nitrogen in instead of air. Nitrogen has no pressure change through the seasons cold or hot so my tire psi always stays the same.

It’s possible that the float is set to low but that would also result in the overflow also leaking. The small hose that’s attached to the bottom on the carburetor would have gas coming out. If you made any adjustments to the needle my guess would be you need to lower it. When you put the slide back in the carburetor did it go in properly? And is it sitting all the way down when the throttle is not pressed ? Latlsy did you reassemble the carb properly? I’ve made mistakes. The main jet I didn’t tighten it when I rebuilt one of my carbs. Sh** happens. Double back and re check everything.

The ridges should be flat. Yours look pointed? If they are new and there’s no metal shavings inside then it should be fine.

That primary is gone! The ruts wil prob show that its within spec maybe because the high points in the ruts. It’s not supposed to look like that. It has to be replaced.

Go look on any boat marina equipment web site. They have a ton of radio enclosures clear type and mounting hardware. Dual Electronics MH200 Transparent Marine Waterproof Radio Housing Unit Single DIN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SQXQCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wM1OCb1GXC5N7

Ok here’s the spec on the regulator. I really don’t think it’s going to be the cause but just check it out. Read the page carefully and check it out. Side note. What color wire had power at the ignition? I attached the wire colors going to the ignition. ( Last pic attached)

Regulator is on the left side of the frame next to the battery. Take a look and I will shoot you the spec on it. It’s a shot in the dark but worth a look. Since everything else seems to be checking out ok.

I would think that the harness is right against the frame or wires are bundled to tightly in the front end possibly pulling apart. But my guess would be that there is a portion of the wire harness presssed against frame and a wire may be bare and shorting out against the frame when stressed on a turn.

The key off =bike off! So that’s not normal. This is something simple. I think your going to have to regroup and go back and recheck everything again. Have you checked your regulator?

We will be here !

You can do it!

The plug I’m referring to is right under the front plastic and it comes from the start button. I believe you had it exposed. Your only testing continuity on the start button from the handle bar wire side plug. Have you taken all the plastics off and inspected the harness ? Have you checked the ignition switch for 12v while the key is on? There should be a power source coming from the battery to the ignition switch. I’m going to check the color wire and get back to you. It should be a brown wire that has 12v if I’m not mistaken.

Not bypassing brother. Like a bike I had and ordered a carburetor for there was an extra port. For what I had no clue. The carb was a perfect match aside from that port. So I plugged it with a piece of hose with a plug on the end.

Spray that cover good with WD 40 and blast it off so you get as much of the metal shavings out as possible. Change the oil and filter when your done changing the primary housing before you run the engine.

Wow. The old clutch was clearly well past it’s life expectations !! The metal shavings are where the old worn clutch was expanding against the primary housing metal on metal since the clutch pads are clearly gone. That is the reason why your new one is slipping. It’s expanding but not gripping bc the housing is so far worn away. Your going to need a new primary.

You will pick it up as you go. It’s not that hard to understand once you have played with a few bikes.

The smaller wires going to the starter relay, have you tried to disconnect them and see if the starter spins with the battery connected? The reasons why this would happen are a few things. The start button is stuck. That can be tested with an electrical tester. The wire that sends 12v to the soliniod to activate the starter has been tapped into by another 12 v feed somewhere along the line. Maybe someone added an accessory of sort and that’s back feeding the wire. Are you at all handy with a tester ?