Frank Angerano

I paid $300 if I remember correctly. I picked it up back in November. Put it in a garage I rent a mile away from my house and it sat. I wanted to wait until it got warmer out. So I picked it up yesterday and brought it to my house and it’s ready to be torn down a bit this week. But it needs a good wash down first.

The white is just a carbon build up. No worries.

Thanks @06kfx440 she’s all in tact! Just need to get her fired up. I thought I would be able to work on it this week but temps are dropping. Going to leave it be for a few days in my garage and take a few parts off for now. Can’t wash it down just yet.

Welcome to Quadcrazy! I would think your going to have to trace each of the 8 wires on the outgoing side to its destination and inspect for damage. If no luck finding damage or a shorted wire then try to disconnect each of the wires one at a time and see if the fuse holds. Process of elimination here I think. Get some extra fuses!

Looks great. So do the sausages!!

Have you checked the main fuse located next to the starting solonid. Look at that solinoid and see if there’s a fuse right next to it under a rubber cap. Make sure you’ve gone through every fuse and connection. Try to wiggle the key while it’s in the ignition and see if anything happens. Sometimes it’s a bad ignition switch. Checking the power to the switch is a good idea like @David Peterson mentions. If you don’t have power after all of that the you have to start looking at safety switches like the neutral safety switch and the kill switch etc.

So here she is. Finally dug it out and about to go into tear down. The last owner was a little sticker crazy 😝 aside form the NY GIants sticker! The bike is in perfect condition mechanically and ascetically. No cracks in the plastics etc. just dirty and sat for quite some tome. Going to wash her down and take it to pieces, clean it up and fire it up! More pics to follow.

The best of and seals are not to bad cost wise. Getting the bearing out of the diff is a pain in the as*. Juts be patient you will find a good one. I sent an email if my guy has one I will put you in touch.

Ok great so you have options! Something will turn up.

Nope. I just kept playing with it until I found the happiest place. I got it to 95% and left it at that. Ran good the only issue was at full throttle for a good run she couldn’t stay there that long with out bogging down. After I let up off the throttle a little bit she cane right back.

Ok well I have a guy in PA he has a ton of sh**. I am going to shoot him an email see what he has He ships everywhere.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232887280184 Nott sure if this fits your bike but worth a shot to compare.

The axle itself is not bad as far as cost. The diff is a pricier part however.

It will fire right up most likely but the as you try to ride you may come across a point in the throttle that the bike bogs (flat spot)or slows down. It’s just a mixture set up on the carburetor that takes time and testing to get right.

Ok great. Worst case you can send it back but I think it will fit. Just keep in mind what I said about the adjustment issues. Good luck

That would most likely be the wires going to your stator coil. I’m only guessing without looking at your diagram but there are very few wires that come form inside the engine. The stator coil, the pick up coil and maybe a neutral safety switch. If your moving the wires around and they kill the engine my guess would be they’re shorting out right at the entry fitting where the wires enter the engine. It’s a plastic collar that’s fitted for the engine case cover. Post a picture of where the wires are coming from.

Welcome to Quadcrazy!

A men Honda!

You have to check the part number for your year and look up the part number for that year and see if they match.

I would think yes. But!! Whenever a decade passes into the next there may be a change. You have to look up part numbers unfortunately to be sure.

No way. Are the splines in the diff shot as well?

Holy sh**!

That’s great. Put up some pics when you can I’m curious to see what everything looks like and the condition it’s all in.

That is the right carb for the bike I also found the extra vent line. I was not sure what it was for since the old one on the bike didn’t have that line. So I bought it anyway and plugged that line. Just a small piece of hose with a screw in the end. The oil injection lobe was perfect and the everything else matched up. The only issue I had was it took me a long time to tune it and dial it in. But it worked. Here is one on e bay

In order to test the start button you have to unplug the clip at the handle bar. The two wires in the start button yellow and red stripe and black with the yellow stripe are the start button. Put a tester on those two wires and press the button. You should get a continuity reading.