Frank Angerano

Hopefully you get lucky with the cluster. Where did you wind up finding doors?

Boy i will tell you the smallest things make me happy! Finally got the Yamaha emblem for the front and it makes the whole front end look right!

Yep i figured as much with electrical, the cluster as much as you tell me its good i believe it's intermittent at best and needs replacing. Regulator/rectifier I would just change it. Diode tests will tell you what's going on but i still would not trust it. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but this is going to be an ongoing problem until you change all the electrical components. If your lucky you might be able to save the ECU but I'm even on the fence about that. I wish you luck my friend and i hope I'm wrong but I've seen a lot and water is deadly when it comes to current.

@Gunny what's up buddy! Hows the machine, tracks still holding up well ?

Another satisfied customer!!! Very happy you like the bike, its too late now since you put sheetrock screws in the tires but they sell straps and or chains that go on the tires relatively cheap that would get you through the winter. Also pay attention to that driveway should you lose any screws !!!! You will wind up with them in your car or truck tires.

87 from any gas station should be fine. Get the old stuff and that chemical out and start fresh. Double check the tank is clean and the hoses are not deteriorating inside.

You would hear the head gasket leaking. Spray the sides of the head where the gaskets are with windex and crank the engine you will see bubbles. I would drain the tank of all the gas and that chemical and change the oil as well. Put the proper spark plug and some 87 octane gas and see what happens. If the carburetor is adjusted properly the rest of the carbon will burn off.

Are you sure its coming from the top end and not the clutch ? Only thing that comes to mind is the valve and cams up top if thats where your sure its coming from. Pull the valve cover off and inspect everything, cam decompression device and the timing chain slack, valve clearance etc. What octane gasoline are you running in the bike?

They are a little tough to spin, as you turn that adjuster press the throttle a little bit. The pressure of the spring/throttle pushing on that adjuster makes it tougher to turn.

They last a long time theses machines. Only thing that can truly destroy them aside from fire is salt water. Other then that they can literally be brought back from the dead.

No brake light. I looked and double checked. Even took the rear brake light apart and the bulb only has one element within the bulb. Also looked at the breaks and no switches are present.

Any idea where the black stuff is coming from? Tank or possibly the gas lines are breaking down inside? This does happen and you can usually tell by squeezing the hose and feel how weak it is. If so swap the hose as well and put the filter in. Hows the inside of the tank look?

Love it !

Not sure about the rear brake light, i will find out about that tomorrow for you and get back. As far as the sliding goes definitely related to the tires. Shifting seems a little rough on mine also. Im going make some adjustment tom and report back.

😂

Who's big old red tractor is that. I always wanted to drive on of them.

Auto body paint just a gloss black mixed with a little lacquer thinner so its sprayable. I forgot to mention the front bumper/guard same process and a metallic grey that was laying around. That gray was from a Mazda 3 car he repaired. I go to a body shop up the block from my house and grab whatever colors he has left over from a car. He gives them to me for free! Maybe half a quart or a full quart of a color mistake. He throws them out anyway so i stop in once in a while with a dozen doughnuts and a box of joe the boys. He lets me look through the colors and take what i want.

Its sweet, prob a blast in the snow.

Thank you @Ajmboy Plastics were from a can. I will post a pic of the can later. Product is Minwax, i asked my local place that specializes in paint and she took about a week and got back to me with it. I was a little shocked at first because Minwax makes wood finishes. So i asked how was this possible and her answer was the rep said use this because it's flexible due to the nature of wood expanding and contracting round year with heat and humidity so a flexible chemical is added. Makes sense i guess. She went on to say that it also sticks to any surface. So i bent the crap out of it and put gas on it 24 hours later to try and remove it but it held up very well. The water sanding was key as it took the layers of oxidation/fading off. I bought a Wagner spray gun for $65 on Amazon and sprayed the racks which i I'm happy with because #1 the amount of paint on the racks #2 the hard shell feeling of them. Its almost like its factory sprayed.

A few pics in the daylight and obviously the night time photos did it no justice! Im super impressed with this one. The way she shines! This front rack was bent pretty bad. I heated it up and beat it back to good, cane out pretty straight. I shot the racks with a spray gun for the first time and love it.

Man that utv is nice. Especially with trax on it.

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Did you install the starter clutch the right way? Spinning the engine backwards a bit like you said should not do any damage. Pull the oil dipstick and check oil level to see if its really high and smell the oil. Curious if it smells like gas, drain and change it if need be. lastly If none of this works i would take the valve cover off and take a look at the valves and decompression release. Look at the cam on the side and see if there is a small spring on the cam.

Thank you very much. Its for a good man!

Wow looks good! Nice work, now that plow!