Frank Angerano

Welcome to Quadcrazy! Nice machine you got there. You will find everything you need here from maintenance as well as good chatter and pictures, videos etc! Your going to enjoy this forum!

I think your fine waiting until the 50 hours. Check the oil level and thats about it. After the 50 hour mark service the machine and you should be good to go.

Ok no worries get it out and we will help you along.

Ok well its not rocket science and I'm sure your more then capable to do this based on what i've seen from the pics and the way you are posting so you got this! But def going to need some undisturbed time so do what you have to do and when your ready to tackle it have a clean work area, piece of cardboard and a sharpie to write on as well as a separate piece to be able to stick bolts and screws in to properly label and keep track of where they came from. U joints all though i haven't seen a pic yet but im assuming the welds will be hard to grind so if thats the case get familiar with a pencil grinder! Best tool on the planet for getting rid of welds in tight places.

Welded the U joints?? Ugh some people!! Post a few pics i have to see this. As far as the choke goes; locate the choke at the carburetor and get familiar with how it works, then after the bike is warmed up and running you have to verify that it's releasing and turning off allowing the proper amount of air flow into the engine. There are a few different types of chokes so I'm not sure what is on yours. Don't be shy and never be afraid to ask questions. Post a ton of pics and we will help you along wherever you need it. Looks like you have a nice little place to work on the bike there too! The cable will not come with the spring. The sprig actuation happens atv the carburetor so it could be as simple as that for the throttle and choke.

Nice project bike to start off with. If she starts up straight away then half the battle is over ! But before you start to tear the carburetor off double check its not something as simple as the choke being stuck. If its a black plug and a little black smoke coming from the exhaust then it could be a stuck or broken choke cable or at the carburetor where the choke device is. If not then yes you have to go deeper into the carburetor. As far as U joints go its not a crazy big deal on most atvs.

Take a look on the bottom of the carburetor you will probably see a small cap that sits flush. Under that cap is the air/fuel screw. In some states the manufacturers are required to cap that screw for emissions reasons. Anyway that cap is easily and commonly drilled out to access the screw. Post a picture of the bottom of the carb and we will point it out.

Ok good. Just keep one thing in mind, if your swapping carburetors and it runs with one and not the other then its most likely a fuel problem. I bet it's something minor on the new carburetor. Also on a side note make sure you don't discard the old carb. You can get a rebuild kit and the new screws for about $40. The old carburetors are like gold.

Hope so! Fighting the clock on this one. God forbid we get a snow storm! 😳 Thanks' @Dra O

So i got it up in the air and pulled the wheels off. Pressure washed the entire bike and I'm pleased with what's underneath. Everything looks in tact and untouched. Brake pads are worn halfway down, all the bushings are in great condition. Not pulling the plastics off because im happy with everything so far. Going to paint the underside, new brakes, grease, oil lube and filter. Add a few cool cosmetic details and sending it out. Stay tuned!

People suck sometimes. Shady sh** deals are the worst. Looks like an 86 to 88 to me. However based on what i see there is a market for the plastics and other parts so I would say you could make back $500 minimum in parting it out worst case scenario. Take a look on eBay i bet you find the plastics and racks for that make and model starting at $300. The throttle cable with the zip tie is a classic. The carburetor looks like a Chinese carb. Might as well see what you can do with it and see if it's worth the effort but if its to far gone then you part it out!

No it should not change anything. Thats a decent carburetor though. Have you checked that fuel flow to make sure its getting to and through the carb ? Maybe something is inside the bowl holding the float up. Put a clean piece of hose on the carb and blow into it. There should be air flow. If not then there's a problem. There could be a minor defect in the carb as well and you may have to open it up and have a look. Maybe it was not assembled properly.

Hey Chad welcome to Quadcrazy. Is the new carburetor an OEM or a Chinese carburetor? If the old carburetor was leaking it was most likely a bad float seal, or float adjustment. Maybe you can use all the screws from the new carburetor, make the adjustment on the float or use the float and needle from the new carburetor as well and see how it goes.

Good work brother, glad it worked out. Be sure to stay in touch. ride safe.

Yep, story of my life. It will clear up. be sure to take lots of pics

Listen its a wire harness. Its not rocket science. Its dirty at worst. Plus the seller has a 100% positive reviews page. A spray can of contact cleaner on the plugs, fresh tape and dialectric grease on all plugs after its all re wrapped in tape and its a new harness. As long as its not burnt up its fine and by the pics and the sellers history he knows what a burnt harness looks like. Even if you were to build your own and i have on many which worked great and felt great to actually build one but, the time spent (2 days minimum), effort and roughly about $50 bucks in material it would be cheaper to put the oem harness on. Not trying to push this on you just trying to let you know I've been down the path before and what worked out the best.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F402002537146

Its a 88 not 98 correct? Sorry to ask again but I was half asleep this am when i read this. I agree with putting all new wiring in but if you cant find one then you have to make due. There were other kawasaki atvs that the harnesses were the same. Maybe the lakota.

Well that's kinda good that at least you found the problem. Is it localized to one area that you can just cut out the bad stuff and splice in new ? In addition to that you have to also fond out why it happened in the first place. I have a few diagrams for that atv but there are a few different models. What area of tye harness is burnt up ? Maybe post a few pics.

Good stuff and nice work! Ride safe!

Maybe do a little simple testing on the kill switch, ignition switch and stator coil. Could be something simple. First start at the kill switch by opening it up to make sure there is no water inside. Second wiggle the ignition key and see if that works, sometimes the contacts inside wear away a bit so wiggling may show spark hence a new ignition may be needed. If not lastly you have to do a test on the stator coil and ignition coils. All of the above testing needs to be done with a tester so of your somewhat familiar a tester it should be no problem.

Cant put a price on quality. Oem way to go and the price was good. Smart man! let us know how the bike runs.

Wow big time tear down. Harness fried from maybe hooking a battery up backwards? Did you get any history on the bike?

Merry Christmas everyone!

Thats great news. A few bugs are more then expected but its good to know it can be trusted now. Merry Christmas and ride safe.