Frank Angerano

Agreed not to keep messing with it but just have to hope that its not allowing any fuel or vacuum issues if that alignment issue now created a gap of any kind.

The pic attached shows why you also might be stuck, its not going to come out if if its wedged. Was it like that before you touched it ?

There are small brushes that get inside that port to clean it. If you crack that carburetor body its over! It looks like you rotated the brass sleeve a little already. AUTOLA Carburetors Carbon Dirt Jet Remove Cleaner, 13 Cleaning Wires Set + 10 Cleaning Needles + 5 Nylon Brushes Tool Kit for Welder Carb Chainsaw Spray Guns Torch Tips Firing Hole Stove Burner Holes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8LZ2PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9O89DbEV5TQ90

Why are you pulling that part out ? Ive never needed to touch that unless someone cross threaded the main jet.

Could be a bad injector or relay.

I once bought a fourtrax for a few hundred bucks because i needed the plastics and one rack. The pictures of the bike looked mint. So i asked the guy is there anything wrong with it? He said all I'm going to say is everything is usable but the frame!! Anyway i went to see it and the frame was rotted so bad that the bike snapped in half! Turns out it was an old police atv for beach patrol. Amazing what salt water can do! I use a light gauge wire wheel on my drill and have at it on all rusted areas down to bare metal and hit it with rustolium black spray paint, a few coats.

Nice looking bike from what i can see. Going to have some fun with that. What size engine??

Def want to see some pics. I have to say i always am hustling and buying bikes. I have never found a $40 atv worth while. I grabbed this Baja for $50 but its a baja! 😢

Exactly!

Not really and i don't think i would even try to re use gaskets since they are cheap enough to get. The package for $35 bucks has everything.

Its always easier to work on without the plastics just not easy to take the plastics off! I don't think you need to pull the plastics off based on the problem your having unless you need to pull the fan. Then you may need to take the front one off. Post a few pics of you can so we can help you along and make sire your on the right track.

This is exactly what me and my son do and its a blast. I would not be surprised of you spray them rings down good with starting fluid and clean the ring grooves on the piston, put them back on and take a company reading again and see what you get. My guess is you will be impressed. The cam journals look good, it all looks like it needs one hell of a parts wash.

@Guythis448 any luck ?

Agreed @spock58 but it looks like all the internals are new. That brass looks a little bit too clean to me?

$40 bucks??? And @Ajmboy says I find all the deals lol. listen if the plastics are good and the atv is in tact for the most part then yes $500 would be worthwhile. It would sell for $1000 to $900 in good running condition. The plastics and parts would be worth about $600 plus if you just want to part it out and thats a minimum estimate. If you think you could get that atv back to good for $500 then do it but make sure your not wrong and check all the gears and differentials as well. Be a shame if you did all that just to find out there is a drive train problem.

Lol sounds like my garage. Good luck and post pics!!

Sounds good brother, keep us posted.

Great work! Make sure you add grease to the cam lobes prior to start up and your timing is correct. New valve seals as well I'm assuming?

👍🏻 Good work brother!

Nice work. It looks spotless, I would not cut that gasket. It will tighten up and fit back in. If you cut that rubber it will leak.

What I would do is take a stainless steel corner square and place it down on a flat surface. Then put the ring in the corner of the square and check for the slope against the edges of the square and then flip the ring over and check again.

If the dark spots are just grease from your fingers then yes the cylinder is fine. The ring should be tapered and not noticeable to the eye without really looking at it or putting it up agains a flat surface like a smooth piece of steel or on a metal ruler but its tough to see. Did you look on the flat spot of the rings, the rings are usually marked there?

Very good! That air fuel screw is tapered and fits into an air passage in the carb, so turning the screw out increases the airflow. Some carburetors are different but most work this way. Over time the screws tapered edge wears away and the adjustment gets less sensitive. The optimal position where the engine is at max performance is usually done with the engine running. As you turn the screw in one direction or the other the engine revs higher or lower. Higher is what your looking for the higher it revs the better the air fuel ratio is getting and you keep going in that direction until the engine starts to rev lower. Thats the spot where you stop and come back a hair.

Baby steps ! Nice work.

No worries on the time spent helping out. Thats what Quadcrazy is here for. I honestly feel like the air fuel screw is to far out. I would set it at 2-1/4 out from a snug position. NOW i know you cleaned the carburetor and reassembled it and probably did and amazing job. Problem is sometimes we miss things or something has gotten back inside the carburetor. Are you 100% sure the gas tank is clean and not full of dirt ? If so add a fuel filter. So I would pull the carburetor one more time and open it up to inspect the ports, orafaces and jets. Make sure its clean and blow out all the holes and Jets etc with compressed air. Reset the clip on the main jet needle as per the manual and adjust the float so that the fuel stops flowing at about 3/4 way up. You can verify this by leaving the bowl off of the carburetor and putting a clean hose on the fuel line inlet on the carb. Hold the carb so its in the proper right side up position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming from the fill needle. Slowly raise the float up with your hand while blowing and it should stop at around 3/4 way up. If so your good to go on that, if not make the adjustment. Set the air fuel screw as i mentioned and put it all together. Remember what we discussed, the air fuel screw is the small screw that's underneath the carb and goes into the carburetor the one I circled in the pic a few posts back. Its a pain in the as* to adjust when its back on the atv especially while its running so you have to take a small flat head screwdriver and cut it to about 3 inches or so long and then add a little tape to the end so you can turn it with your hand. Before you make any adjustments when you get the carburetor back on try running the atv at 2-1/4 out and see how it goes. If not make the adjustment while the engine is running. Come out a quarter turn at a time. I'm sure this sounds like a lot but its all doable and takes time but it pays off. I cant tell you how many times I've had to pull a carburetor again. Just keep your patients.