Frank Angerano

Hahaha verbal lubrication lmao. @davefrombc that was great stuff right there! A carburetor is a carburetor is a carburetor! One thing I'm going to add to this topic is, I've loosened the carburetor clamps up and rotated it to remove the bowl and float while the carburetor was still on the machine. I have also dropped the pin that holds the float and the fill valve needle which took me forever to locate! So if your going down that road then be sure to add a rag or something bright and that if something should fall its got a bright and contained landing area. My personal opinion is to remove the carb since its not to difficult to do after you get the hang of it and getting that needle back up in there is not so easy to do while its on the engine.

Your doing great brother. Its not rocket science just old rusted stuff that needs to be freed up again. Keep up the good work

Nice work brother. So spray the cam lobe with penetration oil as well and let them sit. The cam should rotate with the brake lever and expand the cam in between the brake shoes thus expanding them. There is a brake grease you can and should put on the lobe when your all free and moving and ready to close it all up. The area I circled should move. Spray the sh** out of everything except the surface of the brake pads and hit everything with a wire brush. You can out blue painters tape on the brake pad surface before spraying it all down.

Yep just as i figured lol. Oh well, its got a Suzuki engine and ton of decent parts. Maybe get it running and sell it cheap.

Baja and Suzuki I'm assuming did a joint venture ??

Im not sure sure this was a deal lol. Its in rough shape.

Def good to do as @spock58 mentioned. Reason I'm asking about damp conditions is my old fourtrax used to lose spark when it was damp. Turned out my cdi outer casing was separating from the epoxy fill and letting moisture in. If it dried out it had spark again.

Anything damp ?

Your going to need a wheel puller with long arms. Check out amazon they have a few different types. You may have to get the type that has hooks to go into the holes on the drum or take a few large hose clamps and put them around the drum, tighten good and use a standard type long arm puller.

$30 a gal ???? Yep thank god for peak or prestone!! Fuel injectors yes def a good point, it all depends on how long it soaked and if it was fresh or salt water.

Your very welcome, a lot of the cooling systems work that way. If you get stuck let me know we will go deeper.

Soooooooo believe it or not the guy who bought my Mojave reached out to me and said that his son loves the bike and now he wants to ride! Asked me if I had a bike for him to learn an easy rider type atv. You guys know I love that bear tracker but i let it go only because it went to the right person. So he shows up and has a quad in the back of the truck. He said its a Baja and has no need for it to make him an offer. Said it didn't run and it was small for him and it had a clutch. I had no need for it but wound up giving him $50 off the price of the bear tracker and threw it in the garage. I've heard of Baja but never seen one. Turns out it has a Suzuki engine on it and its a 330cc. Im not familiar with it at all. It had no spark but does now due to a wiring fault i found, compression is good and it cranks, carb and gas stink to high heaven of varnish but i have no time to go any deeper right now. Just curious on any background on the Baja's from anyone? Im sure il have it fired up right after the new year but its a strange looking thing.

Any luck @YamahaBB350?

Hey brian which shaft are you referring to??? Post a pic or two.

Spray it good with penetration oil and use a rubber mallet and tap it a few times all around. That drum looks cracked or is it the pics? If you plan on using any heat here you have to be super careful here not to melt a seal.

Whats up @Kawiherder what year make and model? Im assuming Kawasaki by your name. That light comes on from a sensor in the top of the cylinder head that acts independently from the fan. If its water cooled then there is a sensor on the right side of the lower portion of the radiator. Take the two wires off that sensor and jump them together. If the fan comes on then the sensor is bad. If the fan does not come on then the power going to that sensor needs to be checked. Thats done by using a simple test light or tester. One of the wires on the sensor should have 12V power on it. If not then start tracing that wire back to its source, maybe fuse or there are inline circuit breakers on the wire to the fan on some models. Now if you have power at the sensor and when you jump the two wires on the sensor and the fan does not come on then it could be a bad ground on the sensor or a bad fan so you have to start looking at the fan itself and the wires coming off of it. All of the above testing needs to be done with the key on.

I used all methods, flame, heat, buffing etc. None of which held up very well. I did however water send and send to a auto body shop where they added a flex agent into the paint and sprayed them and the finished product was insane.

I cant see it because i only use my phone but im going to start using my laptop when I'm home.

I agree. It does look good but mine did not hold up that long as well as being a magnet for dust which results in washing the atv and that washes off the oil. its great when ur selling an atv !

Hey Az! Hope all is well pal. I thought it was you that had this problem. Lets see maybe @YamahaBB350 will get lucky.

Is it a very light smoke and blueish ? If so thats oil. Its an air cooled machine so we know its not coolant so it would have to be oil which mens either bad valve seals, rings etc. What i would do at this point is make sure you put everything back correctly and make sure the choke assembly is also correct. Then let it run for a little bit and see how it settles down after its warmed up. The smoke should somewhat clear. Make the adjustment on the air/fuel screw and get the engine tuned. Once this is done if it still smokes a lot then you will have to make a decision on how far you want to go with fixing it.

Well lets hope its still good and you get lucky.

Yes absolutely and then check the brake cable. I believe you have to pull the brake for reverse? Check that as well.

I can honestly say I've tried it all! Linseed oil, water sanding with 2000 grit paper and trying to buff it out, heating with a heat gun (worked the best) but nothing will bring them back! I use armor all to give them a decent look but nothing is going to ever bring them back to the way they were.

Wow great point @Ajmboy i remember this topic! Could very well be just that ! I think it was the brake cable adjustment or the linkage. One or the other, we had another member that made adjustments and was no longer to get in reverse and he put it back where it was and it was fine. Maybe @Arizona?