Frank Angerano

I know the feeling.

I would start to pull the harness away from the frame and start to check for any cuts or broken wires. Then Start checking continuity from one end of a wire in the harness to another. So locate a brown wire and start checking for another brown wires and check continuity at each spot. Do the same for all wires in the harness to make sure they are not broke. Understand or am I not clear?

Yep it’s prob an accessory terminal or charging port. I just looked at the diagram it is an accessory/trailer lights terminal.

That plug is an accessory connector of some sort maybe a battery tender. If you look at a lot of the wiring diagrams it shown an accessory set of wires. Check it for voltage with key on and off. Was it plugged into anything or is it just hanging.

Have you opened up the kill switch to check for water ? Also wiggle the ignition switch, sometimes the contacts are bad inside the switch?

Take a compression reading holding the throttle wide open and then closed. Or rip the carb off and take a reding holding your hand over the intake manifold and one without your hand over it. Im sure you did a great job rebuilding the carb but something is not clear inside one of the small ports within the carb. There is a fuel blockage someplace, a jet that’s not clear or the float is set to high. If you are having a rough time with the air/fuel screw then throw a rebuild kit in the carb. Ex caliber makes a great oem type kit that comes with the air fuel screw as well.

Have you checked the fuel flow from the tank ? Petcock valve and screen assembly?

That white wire on the positive should send voltage to the harness. Have you checked that it’s going through the ignition and feeding the brown ?

Check each wire from the stator to the ground on continuity and see if you get a reading. One lead of the tester on one of the yellow wires and the the other lead of the tester to a good ground. If you get any kind of a reading on continuity or ohms then there is a problem with the stator. As far as the 0.7 I would have to see what the specifications for that atv call for. But do that test first and see what happens.

Absolutely The new stator will or should come with the pick up coil as well. Stators go bad from a few different things but mainly from trying to jump the bike with a car or welding on the frame without disconnecting the stator and installing the battery wires backwards.

This is a true story !!! Didn’t think about that.

Have you spun the engine to see if it’s spinning free without the spark plug? You should also bench test the starter by strapping it down to the work bench and putting 12 v to it to see if it spins.

Sick! All I could think about is how cool that would be as a hunting atv to quietly ride to your tree stand. I always will love my compression fuel fired engines I have to wonder what it would be like to take this think out for a spin.

When you pulled the carburetor off the atv did you inspect it to see that all it’s parts were there? Could anything have blown into the cylinder head from the carburetor that’s causing this. Have you checked the oil level and lower half of the engine to see it’s not completely flooded with fuel and oil ? And I almost forgot welcome to Quadcrazy @Quadrunner44 !

Parts come in ?

Any luck ?? Have you tested the two wires feeding the cdi while cranking for voltage ? I see your point about the wires feeding the cdi. There is a red/yellow wire coming from the kill switch going to the cdi as well as the ignition? Have you tested this wire for voltage as it comes out of the ignition with the key on ?

Welcome to Quadcrazy @marek porowski Your going to love this forum.

That is outstanding !! Get em started young! Soon enough it will be a 80cc then a 125 and so on. Great stuff.

I was looking around and found some chatter on this code. Here’s a page of some possible solutions from I think a Polaris dealer.

The rust is no big deal I was saying it looked new. Color looks great and seems very fresh. Grease is a must when reassembling.

No alternator ??

That drive shaft looks new. The u joints need grease. Also keep in mind the drive shaft could be slipping due to something on the back end. Where the rear differential and the shaft meet? So if that new seal is the same size as the old one the problem may be down low. Might as well take a looK while it’s open.

The cdi needs voltage to work. Take a look at this pic. If this is your diagram for a US made 1995 I circled and arrowed the area. The brown wire coming into the switch should be 12v +. It should send voltage to the Y/R wire which goes to the cdi. That Y/R wire should have 12 v at the cdi. The cdi gets its pick up coil signal from the Bk/W wire coming from the pick up coil and gets amplified and sent out of the cdi via G/W to the secondary ignition coil that supplies spark to the plug. Make sure your grounds are good including the main frame ground and on the secondary coil at the spark plug. The cdi has diodes inside them that can go bad and create stray voltage. Not sure if you tested the cdi on another bike but I have. A feeling it’s the cdi.

Nothing worse then waiting for parts! Here is a topic on differential fluids. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-equipment/atv-and-utv/sport/synthetic-atv-utv-transmission-and-differential-fluid/?zo=34396

It could have been the way the boot just sits in there that makes is looked cocked. Before you tighten up the new boot just be sure to take a look and see how the shaft and U joints line up. As far as the O rings in the bevel gear housing if they aren’t leaking you can let them be but that’s up to you. The rear seal I have a feeling is just worn so when you get the new one measure or compare them. See how they match up this way you have an answer. If they are the same size then you have to start looking elsewhere for why that seal is slipping out.