Frank Angerano

Have you checked the fuel flow from the tank ? Petcock valve and screen assembly?

That white wire on the positive should send voltage to the harness. Have you checked that it’s going through the ignition and feeding the brown ?

Check each wire from the stator to the ground on continuity and see if you get a reading. One lead of the tester on one of the yellow wires and the the other lead of the tester to a good ground. If you get any kind of a reading on continuity or ohms then there is a problem with the stator. As far as the 0.7 I would have to see what the specifications for that atv call for. But do that test first and see what happens.

Absolutely The new stator will or should come with the pick up coil as well. Stators go bad from a few different things but mainly from trying to jump the bike with a car or welding on the frame without disconnecting the stator and installing the battery wires backwards.

This is a true story !!! Didn’t think about that.

Have you spun the engine to see if it’s spinning free without the spark plug? You should also bench test the starter by strapping it down to the work bench and putting 12 v to it to see if it spins.

Sick! All I could think about is how cool that would be as a hunting atv to quietly ride to your tree stand. I always will love my compression fuel fired engines I have to wonder what it would be like to take this think out for a spin.

When you pulled the carburetor off the atv did you inspect it to see that all it’s parts were there? Could anything have blown into the cylinder head from the carburetor that’s causing this. Have you checked the oil level and lower half of the engine to see it’s not completely flooded with fuel and oil ? And I almost forgot welcome to Quadcrazy @Quadrunner44 !

Parts come in ?

Any luck ?? Have you tested the two wires feeding the cdi while cranking for voltage ? I see your point about the wires feeding the cdi. There is a red/yellow wire coming from the kill switch going to the cdi as well as the ignition? Have you tested this wire for voltage as it comes out of the ignition with the key on ?

Welcome to Quadcrazy @marek porowski Your going to love this forum.

That is outstanding !! Get em started young! Soon enough it will be a 80cc then a 125 and so on. Great stuff.

I was looking around and found some chatter on this code. Here’s a page of some possible solutions from I think a Polaris dealer.

The rust is no big deal I was saying it looked new. Color looks great and seems very fresh. Grease is a must when reassembling.

No alternator ??

That drive shaft looks new. The u joints need grease. Also keep in mind the drive shaft could be slipping due to something on the back end. Where the rear differential and the shaft meet? So if that new seal is the same size as the old one the problem may be down low. Might as well take a looK while it’s open.

The cdi needs voltage to work. Take a look at this pic. If this is your diagram for a US made 1995 I circled and arrowed the area. The brown wire coming into the switch should be 12v +. It should send voltage to the Y/R wire which goes to the cdi. That Y/R wire should have 12 v at the cdi. The cdi gets its pick up coil signal from the Bk/W wire coming from the pick up coil and gets amplified and sent out of the cdi via G/W to the secondary ignition coil that supplies spark to the plug. Make sure your grounds are good including the main frame ground and on the secondary coil at the spark plug. The cdi has diodes inside them that can go bad and create stray voltage. Not sure if you tested the cdi on another bike but I have. A feeling it’s the cdi.

Nothing worse then waiting for parts! Here is a topic on differential fluids. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-equipment/atv-and-utv/sport/synthetic-atv-utv-transmission-and-differential-fluid/?zo=34396

It could have been the way the boot just sits in there that makes is looked cocked. Before you tighten up the new boot just be sure to take a look and see how the shaft and U joints line up. As far as the O rings in the bevel gear housing if they aren’t leaking you can let them be but that’s up to you. The rear seal I have a feeling is just worn so when you get the new one measure or compare them. See how they match up this way you have an answer. If they are the same size then you have to start looking elsewhere for why that seal is slipping out.

Man that’s a tough gremlin you got going on. So the only few things that could be doing this then is a short within the wiring maybe along the frame ? Could be a bad connection on one of the plugs even the single pin and sleeve plugs that are all over the harness. Maybe take them apart, clean up and add some dialectic grease and reconnect. Check to see that your ignition switch is ok, I’ve seen some people find that wiggling the switch allowed the bike to fire up due to poor contacts within the switch that sends voltage to the cdi. Some only have two wires, a brown and white, if so then it’s good if your getting dash lights but check thats your model. You tested continuity on the kill switch that it’s opening and closing yes ? You checked continuity from each phase of the stator to ground yes ? (Should get no continuity) Main fuse on the starter relay? Im just throwing random sh** out there and trying to jog my memory from my bayou.

I was just looking at the manual and that does seem weird that it just slides off. Are there any bolts/brackets missing on the swing arm or any bushingS that seem not right ? There should be a constant pressure holding all that together. The bayou is a little different and locks in with all four of the bolt you see on the bevel gear housing case. I would definitely inspect every bushing and bolt back there and make sure everything is tight. How do the universal joints look and feel ? You could spray it good with a cleaner and add a drop of silicone then slide it back in and let it dry. Maybe that will stop if from sliding out. My last guess is that the seal itself has worn down from rotation and has gotten shorter which means replacement.

I’m sorry I thought you took it apart and screwed the nuts on for safe keeping. So that drive shaft pops on and what holds it in place? It looks different from the previous pic you posted. A lot dirtier lol. So you unbolted the swing arm and backed it off ? I have only taken the bayous apart and they are very similar so forgive me for being a little confused. Post a few more pics if you can.

I wouldn’t focus on the irregularities of the spinning readings. The coil is supposed to be tested while it’s not spinning and away from the magnet. It has to be on ohms and you should get pretty much the same number every time you test it. If it’s within spec it’s good. Then the same tests should be done on each phase of the stator coil wires. Between phases (wires) and then from each phase to ground for continuity. If all that comes back good then it’s something else.

Maybe onto something, reach out to Gatorade maybe pitch it to them ! 😂 I can see all the athletes jumping in Gatorade sausage lmao. Going to have a lot of pissed off Italians lol.

So it could be a bad pick up coil if the numbers aren’t good. But without the flywheel spinning and the magnet not near the pick up coil do you get an ohms reading on the two wires ?