JacobSlabach

thanks@Frank Angerano! My motor has the dual valves (4 valves altogether) as well, dont know if that makes any difference...

how do you check for coolant in oil?

bro that is a sweet unit!

@Frank Angerano one what bike?

heres a link to the a arms i was looking at- wish they had more of a description... cant really tell if they would fit or what the specs are lol https://www.walmart.com/ip/HIGH-LIFTER-Max-Clearance-A-Arm-Kit-Red-309039/613754664?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=6281&adid=22222222227164521103&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=277941892770&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-462033282706&wl5=9008704&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=114441983&wl11=online&wl12=613754664&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw5dnmBRACEiwAmMYGORrT-LoKHJUNA5EpLFsy9SyPaDr1uR_r4S9yV6s6rhEOCQuoIc4XYBoC-eAQAvD_BwE

and i really really like these but they are 200 each just for the tire- the above pics were off CL for 400 (the blue rimmed set) and 900 (black rimmed set)

so i guess the main things I'm going to be working on Need a-arms that relocate the front wheels forward need a snorkel need a radiator relocate...??? not sure about the radiator relocate- I think the main thing would be how low down the coolant reservoir is and it has a breath hole in the top... was looking at some tires like these:

so yea i decided to keep it for a mud machine. Looking to snorkel it eventually- maybe something like this? Not looking to get the snorkels really high, just want them higher than they are now. eh sorry those are tiny pics and the wheels something like this

haha yea havnt had that happen- just usually torque them with a breaker bar down till they wont go anymore (the head bolts anyway)

yes was checking that. looks like the closest fender-to-wheel distance is from the the foot rest to the wheel. plenty of room above the front wheels, just not behind them. I was wondering about front a-arms that relocate the wheels forward?

oh ok. I'm heard of a torque wrench, but never have used one. I guess I've just been lucky enough not to have broken anything off yet lol

5x10 is my guess lol those quads have to be more than 4 foot wide.

oh ok. so it should give compression specs in the service manual? Also have heard talk on 'torquing to spec' I assume you find the spec in the manual as well but how do you measure the torque applied to a bolt?

eh sorry- computer issues up there meant to say yes that looks like the head on my bike so thats literally exactly how i checked timing- t mark on the flywheel and marks on the cam sprocket. I'm thinking the tensioner is shot letting it jump time or the valves are incorrectly adjusted. btw, I was wondering how you find certain info in the service manuals? I find it hard to find the info I'm looking for and get lost lol

So I have rebuilt two top end's now and going through the process of a third. I'm confused about how high the compression should be on these atv engines, and if low compression, what should be replaced or checked and how? And as far as smoking, how to tell what is the issue there as well. The first rebuild i did was on a kawasaki 300 and it turned out ok... I realize that I adjusted the valve clearance on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke which caused a tick. nut the thing that got me was one both rebuilds, the compession reading didnt really change that much. I've heard that engines should have over 100psi compression, yet have never seen 100psi reached on my tester by any engine. this thread is open to any top end questions btw.

I would check compression, oil, spark plug, and connections. when bikes sit, they tend to rust/corrode/dry rot and the electrical connections usually suffer. I had an old bike that didnt have spark and just going through the wiring and putting connection grease on the connection brought back spark.

if you replace the valve seals, I would recommend new valves as well as the old ones sometimes have a hard time re-setting into the head. Also, I have had two bikes with aftermarket carbs and am satisfied with how they perform. I say they are worth a shot at least, but @Frank Angerano and@06kfx440 have much more experience than i do.

yea those little Polaris bikes dont have fuel pumps i dont think.

another thing to remember is if you take a bolt out, especially those long ones that hold the head and cylinder to the crank case, never put the bolt back in if any liquid gets in the hole- let is sit overnight and air dry out. Have a relative that does automotive repair and she has cracked crankcases before because she torqued down a bolt that had water (or some other liquid) under it. That water is very powerful under pressure like that, hence it cracked the case and ruined the engine.

yes thats what my head looks like yes thats what my head looks like

ok. which manual should i get? I'm really not sure about the year or size of this atv

got it back together and started it up and it ticks worse now than it did before, thinking I dont have the timing right

the tires i run on my sportsman are kenda executioner 25in, great tires in/out of mud and dont ride rough on pavement either!

sounds to me like a badly adjusted carb. does it get better or worse as the motor gets warmer?

there were too marks on the sprocket that lined up with the head, no marks on the head. I took the cam sprocket bolts off and got enough slack to adjust the chain and put everything back together, still ticks, but worse now.