JacobSlabach

check connection- sometimes corrosion can cause loose connections- I go through the whole harness and coat all connections with connecting grease to rule that out for any electrical issues.

hopefully i can get my warrior to look and work that good! working on the honda first tho

first pic is a bad connection running to the crankcase on the right side of the bike as you sit on it. second is the unknown hook-up right next to the pod headlight third it the bad connection coming from the stater (I think). this group of wires runs to the crankcase on the left side of the bike as you sit on it.

gas tank will be later, but thanks, will do! I dont know how to test a stater- never needed to up till now.. there was one wire coming from the stater that was electrical-taped together so that definitely wasnt helping- dont know if thats the case or not. I havnt checked my kill switch, dont know how to do that either- I have to admit that im not handy with electrical so please bear with me! If the cdi is the issue, wont 225 melt it? I'm not sure which is the cdi on this bike- there are many little boxes with wires going into them lol. I took the harness out so I could lube all the connections to rule them out. The kill swich is tuck in the 'on' position so I dont think thats an issue, but still want to check it. And of course everything is rusted/corroded/dry-rotted on this 80s bike from sitting out so litterally everything is a pain to work with.. but hopefully it'll pay off in the end! heres a pic of the bad connections i found and a hook up on the pod that I cant identify:

yea looking back at the pics, that one looks exactly like mine! I bet its the same model and year

so this bike is my next project. I stripped her down and removed the gas tank. the carb was in the box and i cleaned that up. I was soaking the rubber boot in gas that hooks the carb to the manifold because it was shrunk like they do. The oil looked fresh in this atv and the engine spins freely with the kick start. I will still drain it because the washer on the drain plug was over-compressed and the bottom of the motor was wet from a leak- hopefully the drain plug is the cause. The issue keeping the bike form running right now is no spark. spark plug looks un-used, the ig coil isnt picking up any voltage as far as I can tell so I dont know if this is a staor issue..? When I kick it, the neutral and oil temp lights flicker so it is sending voltage to the battery... (I threw the bad battery on it from the warrior) Also I jumped ot with the polaris and the starter acted sluggish at first like it wasnt getting much voltage, then it quit turning the motor over even when I jumped the solenoid. also this bike has the old metal gas tank and I see peeling paint on the inside of it. How should I clean this out so the crap doesnt get into the carb? I didnt see any rust, just peeled paint. So the issues that I see so far: No spark- I think the coil is good leak on the bottom of the motor gas tank has peeling paint starter sluggish/inactive

comment on what you guys think i should do with this bike... my biggest concern rn is how big can I go with my wheels? I was thinking of a square setup (front tires are as wide as the rear) with 1in wheel spacers. I have a 2in lift on the bike, but I concerned that 28in are gonna scrub the fenders...?

so I'm trying to figure out if I want to keep this bike or sell it. So I want an 850 or 1000cc for playing around and work and trail riding and stuff... but I kinda want to keep this bike and make it into a mud bike...like put bigger wheels on it, snorkel and relocate the radiator...that way if I sink it and kill it, its 2k gone rather than 8k (for a newer efi model) Yoiu guys think its worth it? Is this a good bike for modding it into a mud machine? If so, what necessary and whats not for the mud? the other option is to sell it... I know I can get at least 2500 out of it right now.. I have 2k in it currently.

@06kfx440 ok, didnt know if this was the same ride.. @Frank Angerano looks like a lot of fun! that creek is pretty deep- I cut the stock snorkel off my polaris to let more air in so I currently cant get in water up past the seat.. well looking at it again, it looks like it was just splashing up around the front of the atv making it look deeper..

great topic! Was about to ask this question for my warrior as the plastics are a little faded (they are white so its harder to tell, but they definitely aged...)

if its the same with jumping it then its not the battery. What @Frank Angerano said makes sense testing to see if its hard to push in gear (like if you were trying to push-start it.

never saw a date on here... but hay you guys have fun and post some pics!

what was it doing? i think its hard when a company (any company) starts making a new model of atvs to get all the parts bulletproof on the first try...every model is different and polaris has to make new parts for each.. I think before long the 450, 570, 850, and 1000cc will be just as reliable as the old 400 and 500cc that were ruled the first class atvs in the world in their day.... just remember, if a product is totally garbage, no one would buy it and the manufacturer would go out of business. the exception is with the chinese atvs that are just so dirt cheap that folks cant resist.

that honda looks a little like mine: I think mines older tho.... its a 4-trx and its the model that has the backup kick-start rather than recoil

oh shoot. I didnt take any because I knew what I was doing this time. apologies to the forum! Will take pics of the warrior as I get to it.

haha ok. It could be too much voltage going into your stater that is slowly burning it out or just cheap aftermarket staters? If you continue having issues, I would ask on the forum and see if its something else other than the stater thats causing your issue... And again, every atv will have some sort of issue at some point.. Polaris just doesnt have internal (motor/tranny) issues near as much as other brands.

update: Rebuilt the bike with: New piston New rings New top end gasket kit New valves Honed cylinder. Compression rose from 60psi to 120psi Runs great and a lot stronger. Owner pleased. I guess this is my first successful rebuild lol- I think I was losing compression again with the last one because I didnt replace the valves or hone the cylinder.

polaris is also reliable, but is known for having electrical issues here and there (mainly starter and relay I believe)

put very well. I dont have a wife and kids yet but they come first! Suzuki makes good work/farm quads! very tough and built like a tank doesnt beat polaris though

polaris sportsman coming through once again........ I was 15 (16 now) when I got a 97 kawasaki bayou 300. lets just say it taught me a lot and I sold it before it taught me more.... bsought it for $1000 (dumb move), sunk $1800 into it, and sold it for $800

not bad for efi

Yes the crankshaft spins freely right now and always did. ok. should I flush and then split the case or just split it now and see what kinda crap is going on in there? Also I noticed that the sprocket will turn about 1/8 turn if I switch the directional lever (from reverse to drive and vise versa)

haha thanks- yes I almost lost one on the bayou...

haha ok. Can I do the clutch work now since I already have it exposed? and should I put the top end together before or after I flush the crank case? btw, I checked the rod for play and its tighter(like it should be- its not locked up or hard to turn or anything) than the rod on the big bear haha And the timing chain is a little rusted on a couple links, but none of them are locked up. My only concern is that the drive sprocket still wont move even though the motor is in neutral

sweet bike brother!! how much you pay for it? Thats probably what my next bike would look like after I fix up my current ones