MarkinAR

Loudest I have ever heard was a power bomb header with a DMC alien exhaust. It was ear splitting. But don't be an as*****. No reason to be other than childish douche behavior.

So the video shows just the axle bearings being replaced. If that's all that's shot I'd say use a blind bearing puller and call it good.

General rule on Japanese motors is if it has a paper gasket no sealant is needed. Usually the cases have a specific tolerance expected due to the thickness of the gasket.

Going with almost spot on 1985 Honda gold wheels for the project.

I just fixed one that the one way clutch bearing was fine by hand but slipped with the kick start. If you have to replace it go OEM even though they're high. I've seen cheap ones shred the primary clutch nose.

This one has been a bit of a basket case but it ran for the first time tonight. Not bad for a complete turd and a carb that had been sitting dry forever. Idled and revved like a champ. One more seal to fix and it'll be time to heat cycle it.

Is the relay built into the solenoid like a honda 300 or is there a separate relay like a yamaha big bear?

Keep in mind a thorough cleaning means removal and disassembly. Pretty sure a properly cleaned carb will solve your issue. Its fortunate the float isn't adjustable so it can't get out of spec. Honda 300 is the same way and it's great.

Sounds more like carb is dirty or float level is off a bit not allowing quite enough fuel in the bowl. I'd give the carb a good clean and adjust the float to spec before buying any more parts. My dad has a Mule and it tends to be a bit cranky with similar symptoms...and his is just a dirty carb.

single spark like Jason above mentioned is normally due to residual charge in the electrical system exiting the plug, meaning it's not an actual spark, it's just a couple volts provided by the battery. Most commonly caused by a faulty CDI. @William White Start a new topic and give as much information as you can. Pretty good chance someone in this forum can help, several of us have owned quite a few Bayou's over the years.

Won't start, or won't turn over? Sizzling sounds like a bad relay but that would normally only come into play when hitting the start button, meaning it wouldn't turn over....far different than won't start.

That's a good pair of quads to be working on together. Same motor, mostly same electrical. Both good little bikes. Have fun!

Without having a schematic of the pin outs I'm not sure i'd trust changing part numbers. That is unless you have seen a list of superseded numbers or something where they all replace each other. I do know that 4012678 has a completely different plug and wire arrangement than the other two. Best bet is usually 2nd hand or new OEM if available in the proper part number. Any aftermarket electrical parts are hit and miss....mostly miss.

None on Ebay, so that sucks. Can get OEM from Partzilla but they're $300. That's a tough one if you can't find a parts bike anywhere. Even if you made the seat pan from fiberglass you'll still need hardware. Good luck on that one, wish I could help more. There weren't a ton of the mini quads made so the aftermarket isn't that huge.

Lot of variables to work through here. Make sure fuel is clean and water free, carb is clean, air filter not stopped up, carb jets clean, spark plug clean, then on to transmission slip, brakes partially engaged. Happy to help, just need a bit more info to start with.

I can't tell from the glare what the full VIN is but if you'll clean it up and bit and check it on https://www.faxvin.com/vin-decoder?error you should be able to work it out.

Agreed. I do like the Honda 300 club on FB though, i have picked up a ton of resources there. It's an active and helpful group. But the forum here is the best I've found for an ATV flipper like me because it may be a Honda today or a Kawasaki tomorrow and there's plenty of good folks here to help.

Was plugging around the site and I see that @Admin and @Ajmboy both date back to 2006. So who is the longest standing active member in the forum? nearly 14 years is a long time! and BTW, where is @Frank Angerano? Haven't seen him share any wisdom lately!

Those have been out of production for a while so 2nd hand is going to be the only option. And yes, folks think they are made of gold.

The Honda 300 guys always run Bronco because they are usually adjustable.

Theres probably a service manual in the downloads section of this forum. Usually they just pop out and pop new ones in.

You can't find them because they are not serviceable. You are supposed to replace the whole lower A arm. The issue there being that I'd bet you can't get OEM A arms anymore. Best bet is what the 400ex guys do and take some measurements and find something close. Then you have to struggle the OEM ball joints out and press in something close.

Then the problem is likely in the shift drum. There is a spring and shaft in there and likely the spring broke. Here is a better explanation from a Kawasaki forum I found a while back. "If you take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki's web site, look for the gear change mechanism picture to get an idea of how the reverse system relies on the gear change drum assembly to lock in neutral before shifting into reverse. Then take a look at the picture for the gear change drum and shift forks. Look for the total assembly that is named drum-assembly-change. On the inside end of that unit is the neutral lock named "holder-neutral switch." Between the holder-neutral switch, and the drum itself is a roller, a spring and a pin. One or all of those have failed, or the holder-neutral switch has broken. The fix is relatively straightforward, and I would recommend you pick up the repair manual from http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/beartooth-kawasaki/, open the unit and identify what is broken, then make the repair. There is a downside to running with the holder-neutral switch not functioning other that it is dangerous, and that is if the broken roller, spring, or pin drop out they can lodge in the gears and that generally brings the machine to a screeching halt and snaps the transmission case that holds the mainshaft - kind of expensive."

Have you unhooked the reverse cable and see if it still drops to reverse? I'm pretty sure the most likely culprit of your situation is a cable that is too tight, cable is bound, or reverse switch is sticky and not releasing fully. I'd disconnect the cable and if that resolves it work through the cable and then the switch. Is the reverse switch a twist knob on the left side like the later KLF220?

Pretty much. I usually start at the battery though and work forwards.