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Trump has done more good for America than all the previous presidents since Ronald Regan. The Democratic party is a complete disgrace and embarrassment to America....

I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

I mostly use my quad for work, carrying myself and equipment to places on the land, and it's steep hilly land so a lot of it turns into a bit of an adventure, but when my sons were young we made a mud hole with a skid pan next to it and we had so much fun and so many laughs over there. Mud is good !

I just rebuilt a 96 Kodiak carb for a customer which is almost identical. Did you remove the plastic center block the slide glides on? There is an O-ring in there that gets deteriorated and won't allow the venturi pull the correct amount of fuel up from the jets. The All Balls Racing kit I used came with that O-ring. Also did you adjust the linkage arm so when the buttery starts to open it's lifting the slide at the same time?

You've got the slide needle "lifted to the top slot" ? I hope you mean you have the needle lifted, which would be with the clip in the lowest groove on the needle. You want the needle raised, not lowered.. Have you completely stripped and checked the carb right over, checked every jet and O ring is in there, and that they seem to be about the right sizes/in the right proportions between the fuel jet and it's corresponding air jet, that the float level is right, and that plenty of fuel is getting in through the float needle ? It will be either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much air.. If you put your hand across the back of the carb and only let a bit of air in between your fingers, will it rev up then ? The genuine carbs nearly always run better than any after=market one. I'd try fixing the old one. I've got the idle mixture screws out before by drilling them. First though, most of the screws are in a sort of aluminium tube, and it's often just a thin walled tube in part. Often at the front side of the screw's tube there is a thin walled bit. If you gently tap that bit, as much as is possible, with a punch and tiny hammer, before you drill the screw out, you can spread the metal and expand the hole slightly. Because the screw is only fat where the threads are, you can expand most of the metal that's around the threads. If you look at a mixture screw you'll see the threads only go down a certain way before the needle starts, and the spring is. That's the part that's seized and we can tap the tube around quite a bit of that. When/if you do drill, don't drill so deep that the drill hits the spring. Drill it first with a very tiny drill and stop if it's not exactly in the center. If it's off center, drill that shallow drilling out with a slightly larger drill so that you can then go back to the smaller drill again and drill at an angle with it to correct the centering. Once the tiny drill is getting across to the center position you enlarge the holes and then go back to the tiny one again. Keep doing that. By putting the tiny drill down a slightly larger hole you can realign things. Once you have a hole going down to the right depth and in the center then you drill it out to a size that will just leave a thin wall of threads and then use an easy-out or a screwdriver driven gently in to wind the weakened screw out. The screws are soft and drill easy. Once the center is out of them they loose their grip in the hole. Oh.. It normally only effects them at revs, but a blocked exhaust won't let it suck air in, and will give a lot of back pressure and so make it spit out the carb. There's a difference though between spitting back out the carb, and backfiring back out the carb. Spitting is back pressure, and backfiring is mainly caused by lean mixture.

Hey all, from SW Virginia here. I just picked up a '01 Bombardier Quest 650 on the cheap (seller couldn't get it to start). After correctly plumbing the fuel pump (new pump the prior owner installed but had the hoses going backwards lol) and cleaning the carb and fuel tank, repaired all the batt - and batt+ connections she lives!! I had swore to the wife unit I wouldn't be dragging another "project" home but I couldn't pass it up, it had new tires, new starter, new fuel pump and low hrs. All's good after she took it for a ride! 😆 It rides like a tank, very stable and tons of power.

Mine told me one day I dont know why a grown A## man needs 3 four wheelers, i thought about it for a couple of seconds and said you are right. Thats all they want is to be right.

"Just one more..." is the little white lie that keeps on giving.

GEORGIA!!

I sent you both a message. I think everyone’s point of view and suggestions are valuable. What’s not valuable is the extra banter that goes on from opposing views. All the banter does is increase the post count and discourage people from participating. The topic starter gets to pick the solution from posts made within the topic. That really should be it.

No that would be the Democratic supports who thinks crazy Joe is doing a wonderful job while running this country into the ground....

We ride the dunes in Oregon, including Florence, Winchester Bay, Coos Bay, Sand Lake, and the Christmas valley Sand dunes, as part of the Spartan Racing team. We travel frequently and record all of our riding adventures. You may find our films on YouTube at SpartanRacing43's Channel polaris rzr accessories. Check them out and let us know what you think. Please be honest if you don't like them and let us know. We also welcome any suggestions on how to make them better. Almost every weekend, we arrange outings and are constantly seeking for more individuals to ride with. You may visit the website at Localheroesnw.com to learn more about us and Local Heroes North West.

Nothing beats a cigarette, Wish I still smoked The 02 sensor was bad (threads were stripped and it fit loosely in the housing but wasn't the real problem. Can disconnect both 02 sensors and no change. Throttle cable not really adjustable and IAC is integral to the throttle body and not serviceable.

It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

I had an old Yamaha 250 dirt bike that had the stator crap out. Dealer wanted $300 for it. I couldn't afford that, so I rewound it myself for about $20. I just bought a spool of the same diameter wire, made a jig to attach the part to my wife's sewing machine flywheel, began winding on wire to get the same fill. Worked fine. tom (cheap bastard)

I'd wriggle all the wires as a first step. If it is a chafed insulation and you disturb it and move it so it's not touching anymore it can be the real mongrel thing trying to find it after that and you end up with an ongoing and intermittent problem. If it's a faulty component it will always be faulty.. plenty of time to find that.

Some models the nuts holding the sprocket on are on captive bolts, not studs. They look similar to what cars have for the wheel nuts. Are you sure they are studs ? If they are the captive bolts they might just knock out with a hammer and the new ones get drawn back in with a nut and some improvised spacer.

That filter looks like mine and just fine to me.. but I'd oil those pliers !!

I use mostly for work also, dont care for the mud or see how much mud i can get on myself or the quad, i guess as iv gotten older i think, if i go through that mud it will be fun, but then i will be wet and muddy the rest of the day and when i get home i will have to clean all that mud off the quad. I do like riding through the woods, it so relaxing, and i do like riding to the creek getting off, fish for a while, generally on my own land i like the solitude of being the only one in the woods.

I think it will be flooding. Some carbs that drain screw drains the water from the bottom of the bowl and out that nipple, but the nipple is actually attached to a brass tube in the bowl that goes up high and drains fuel if it gets too high.. Or to explain it differently, the nipple goes to a tall overflow tube, and the drain screw just lets fuel bypass the top of the overflow and go straight into the tube from the bottom. Hope that makes sense. And yeah, the fluctuating speed and all could definitely be caused by changing float level.. Once you have it off then you can give it a good clean and know it's good. I'd do it. And.. I take heaps of carbs apart, clean them and put them together again without changing a single part, and they are all good. The only problem is if the rubber gasket between the bowl and body is old and shrunk or swollen and doesn't want to stay in it's groove when it's time to put it back together.. Then I fit it all carefully all the way around holding it down with a 25 thou feeler gauge to hold it flat and in the groove till I've pressed the bowl into place, then I slip the feeler out. Everything else goes back together easy. Take every brass bit out and clean them. Clean the tiny holes in the sides of the emulsion tube the main jet screws into and that the slide needle drops down into. Take the float needle seat out and check the O ring or gasket that seals between it and the body. People seem to assume it's only the seat and needle that play up and leave the seat in.. Bad plan.

You might check to make sure the throttle plate is going all the way back and not binding open slightly. Other than that good reasearch i have never tried using OEM parts in a chinese carb, really didnt think they would work.

The idle fuel jet has to have the right size air jet to go with it, and they both have to be suitable for the mixture adjusting screw, which can have different diameter and taper needles, and, the main and it's air jet have to be matched and suit the slide, slide needle and discharge/emulsion tube, and both those different fuel ranges, idle and main, both have to be suitable/matched for one other. The low speed air and fuel jets have to suit the air and fuel main jets. And whole carbs, even when everything is set up and mixes well with no flat spots or wasted fuel, needs to matched to the type of engine it's fitted to. Road bike carbs are set up different to work bikes or scramblers. Even twin cam cam engines are different set up to the same engine with a single cam, not because of the cam specifically, but because of the different power band they've used the twin cam or single cam to achieve. It is best to stick with what the manufacturer has gone to so much trouble sorting out for us. Oh yeah. I don't think the ignition timing will be out either.. I was just saying it does make the plugs burn whiter.

I very rarely find one of these out of time, those engines are very resiliant and the valves rarely need adjusting, but this one is older and more than likely been rode hard and put up wet many times. Wrong plug will definately do it, i usually just put in the factory recommended plug. Then there is the carb most of the after market carbs that i have seen have 25 jets, which may be right since the aftermarket ones are slightly different, but the OEM one is 22.5 and the kits i have bought also have the 22.5, but it may not be correct in the aftermarket carb. I think i would keep working on the OEM carb, see if you can get it to factory specs. Aftermarket carbs seem to run lean right out of the box even with the 25 jet, so that might be some of your problem. I have noticed the same spitting and sputtering and not smoothe acceleration with them, that is why i have been working to get all of mine back on OEM carbs.

That sounds like a good plan definately the best way. I dont like using easyouts either and i think the smallest one would still be too big.

I would try everything possible to get it out, before drilling, that is a tiny screw and would be easy to get into the threads and then the carburetor is ruined. I would soak it completely in a combo mixture of carb cleaner and penetrating oil, and use heat if there is no head left on the screw at all and it down in the hole, then you have to drill a small hole and use the smallest ease out and it still may be too big, i dont like using easeouts but are sometimes necessary.

T for top and F for firing.

Too funny, someone is misguiding you or you are just extreme left leaning for whatever reason. Keep believing that BS. If you base in simple economics, it was extremely better under Trump. Not a little, but a lot. Just ask any American to tally up what they pay for expenditures, like food, rent, cars, household necessities, taxes, gas… there’s no argument there unless you like paying more for things. Ask a business person which environment was more favorable. Ask my 401K, see what she says….I’m talking average Americans who work and don’t sit on the “system”.. Canada may have a bigger geography, but without the U.S. it would probably be target for Russia, and other countries as a land grab. Let’s be realistic, a strong U.S. is beneficial for Canadians. The best thing the dems can do is replace Biden and Harris asap. They’re going crazy because they can’t, so the talking points are supposed to fool everyone into believing we don’t have an issue going on here with old man Joe.

There’s a war starting right now in the Middle East and it’s on Biden’s watch. Ukraine has been going on for two years and we are fighting Russia with our military support. There were no wars like this during Trumps first term. Funny how Putin invaded Crimea during Obama and Kiev/Ukraine during Biden…

I don’t like bullies either but you need strength at the helm of the US presidency. Biden is very weak looking, to everyone. He’s frail, forgetful, and sad to watch. It’s just too hard to present him as competent. Everyone sees it, even his own party. No matter how you slice it, there is no arguing that Trump’s policies were better for the country, border, business (small and large) and most American wallets. I think a good portion of the country will vote on the border and economy. The border is a huge issue. The price of groceries is a huge issue. Price of living has gone up year over year. The Biden presidency has only raised the cost to live, allowed for more conflict in the world, and allowed for millions to come into the country undocumented. These are lasting effects on generations to come. It’s really a shame. They just focus on the wrong things. Biden needs to do something fast around the border and the cost of living, if he hopes to get re-elected.

Yup. Gw's a treasure..

Ahh! Annoying safety feature.

It's been a long time since I have used a forum, I was the admin of one for quite a few years, had thousands of daily active members, with lots of crazy posts and spammers, so I salute the admins. Anyway, just waving my greasy hands, Hopefully I can help others out.

It wasn't ATV related, it was related to a long running local television show here in Ohio (movie host) and I owned and operated the website/forum, eventually I stepped down and handed the keys away. It was quite a time consuming thing. lol...I used to get calls in the middle of the night from moderators because spammers were posting hundreds of threads. I had enough of that, was fun though.

We always used ATVs - 90s Polaris Sportsmans - to get to our camp in the bush. Growing up those were my favorite memories. Now I'm a mechanical engineer and I've been rebuilding a lot of the machines we used when I was younger. It's been great to address all the issues. I have no interest in mud bogging and crazy new machines, I really see ATVs as work machines to achieve a greater goal.

On the slightly newer 250 models(88 one) it earths through the reverse switch then the neutral switch.. They are in series..

Welcome and good wrenching, sounds like a fun project. Its always interesting picking up where others left off.

It is a drum brake but it has a twin piston caliper, it sounds like the caliper is hanging up, i would pull it off lube it up a bit and see if that helps, the pistons may be sticking also, go ahead and check that out while you have it off, or you could replace it, thats what i did , they are fairly cheap, actually cheaper than the OEM kit, and i really didnt want to mess around rebuilding it.

Thanks guys, I do like this site. A lot of good information.

Rod knock is usually, but not always, a duller sound than detonation ping. It is easier to tell in a multi-cylinder vehicle like car than in single or twin cylinder ones in ATVs. A loose rod or wrist pin can knock either under load, when backing off or if fairly bad even when idling but normally detonation only occurs under load. When it is happening in car, it is often described as "marbles" rattling around in the cylinders . Detonation is hard on everything and if not taken care of by backing off the timing advance a bit or by going to higher grade fuel can result in holes hammered or burnt into the pistons.

Jim.. Another good sideline if you move to the country, and if they have forestry over there, is buying and fixing chainsaws. One of my sons buys husky or stihl chainsaws, but only the big ones the forestry guys use. The big ones are more repairable and sell easy. And, forestry guys throw their old chainsaws in a shed and leave them there. My son advertise he'll buy any of the three biggest models of either make, going or not, or any parts. Then he tells them he'll be at some place convenient and give them a fair price for whatever they have. Guys turn up with fish bins full of chainsaws, like three plus spares. He just has a quick look and offers them $100 or so and they are happy. He can get four sellers at a time and drops off saws while he's on the road. He goes home and sits up late(in his kitchen with the fire going), and builds one at least the very first night, then sorts parts needed for another.. These saws sell for $600 or a grand and he has no problem selling them.

It's how lots of us got started huh. and I suggest a big block because you can buy a 1/4 acre near a town, or the most popular ten acres, or eighty remote for the same price..

I traded two quads and 100 dollars for a old 1976 ford school bus I'm fixing it up on side for a getaway look out there have seen many that you can get cheap and could live in it until you get something lots of property in the woods and mostly if people know you can work on them they will come, install solar on that bad boy and you got something. Good luck

I'm more worried that China and America have just come to an agreement that climate change is real.. After everyone else has been saying it for years, and now they decide it's bad, and they need to do something.. I'm worried what the two of them will decide is needed to protect them from this "new" threat, and who's going to pay for their sudden concern..

Welcome all! Mehim, what is your budget? Newbie, I'd go get a battery tender from harbor freight or some place like that. It's not really meant to be a battery charger but it will slowly charge the battery. That will tell you if it's a parasitic draw or a different problem.

I'm jobles09, or Jay for short. New to the forum. I'm here cause I'm looking for wiring diagrams for my 1988 suzuki quadrunner 250 4x4. Got it from a friend. Didn't run when I got it. Has been flawless for over a year. Took it on the trail fist time, and it developed a short in the neutral / staring system. That's why I'm here. 4 wheeler is told to just got buy this info. Would like to find a service manual if it was still possible. Anyhow 👋. Cant wait to see the responses.

Hello im From Poland i have Kawasaki ATV greetings

From Canadia eh

I'm from Casper Wy and my neighbor gave me an abandoned 1995 Polaris magnum 425 4X4 that's been sitting outside for at least 5 years. It's been Bubba'd quite a bit and I'm just trying to get it going again. Would be a great utility quad for my property.

Contrary to what so many conservative Americans think, the Chinese and Asians are just as capable of making quality parts as anyone, and North Americans are just as capable of making junk as the Chinese and other Asians. You want to try to bring some of the manufacturing back to the US? Bring back the tax regime of the'50's where companies and individuals were encouraged to invest and re-invest in the US rather than take their profits and run offshore to invest them while demanding more subsidies from the American taxpayers. Don't blame Asians for the tax and business decisions made at home.