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Trump has done more good for America than all the previous presidents since Ronald Regan. The Democratic party is a complete disgrace and embarrassment to America....

I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

I mostly use my quad for work, carrying myself and equipment to places on the land, and it's steep hilly land so a lot of it turns into a bit of an adventure, but when my sons were young we made a mud hole with a skid pan next to it and we had so much fun and so many laughs over there. Mud is good !

I just rebuilt a 96 Kodiak carb for a customer which is almost identical. Did you remove the plastic center block the slide glides on? There is an O-ring in there that gets deteriorated and won't allow the venturi pull the correct amount of fuel up from the jets. The All Balls Racing kit I used came with that O-ring. Also did you adjust the linkage arm so when the buttery starts to open it's lifting the slide at the same time?

You've got the slide needle "lifted to the top slot" ? I hope you mean you have the needle lifted, which would be with the clip in the lowest groove on the needle. You want the needle raised, not lowered.. Have you completely stripped and checked the carb right over, checked every jet and O ring is in there, and that they seem to be about the right sizes/in the right proportions between the fuel jet and it's corresponding air jet, that the float level is right, and that plenty of fuel is getting in through the float needle ? It will be either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much air.. If you put your hand across the back of the carb and only let a bit of air in between your fingers, will it rev up then ? The genuine carbs nearly always run better than any after=market one. I'd try fixing the old one. I've got the idle mixture screws out before by drilling them. First though, most of the screws are in a sort of aluminium tube, and it's often just a thin walled tube in part. Often at the front side of the screw's tube there is a thin walled bit. If you gently tap that bit, as much as is possible, with a punch and tiny hammer, before you drill the screw out, you can spread the metal and expand the hole slightly. Because the screw is only fat where the threads are, you can expand most of the metal that's around the threads. If you look at a mixture screw you'll see the threads only go down a certain way before the needle starts, and the spring is. That's the part that's seized and we can tap the tube around quite a bit of that. When/if you do drill, don't drill so deep that the drill hits the spring. Drill it first with a very tiny drill and stop if it's not exactly in the center. If it's off center, drill that shallow drilling out with a slightly larger drill so that you can then go back to the smaller drill again and drill at an angle with it to correct the centering. Once the tiny drill is getting across to the center position you enlarge the holes and then go back to the tiny one again. Keep doing that. By putting the tiny drill down a slightly larger hole you can realign things. Once you have a hole going down to the right depth and in the center then you drill it out to a size that will just leave a thin wall of threads and then use an easy-out or a screwdriver driven gently in to wind the weakened screw out. The screws are soft and drill easy. Once the center is out of them they loose their grip in the hole. Oh.. It normally only effects them at revs, but a blocked exhaust won't let it suck air in, and will give a lot of back pressure and so make it spit out the carb. There's a difference though between spitting back out the carb, and backfiring back out the carb. Spitting is back pressure, and backfiring is mainly caused by lean mixture.

Hey all, from SW Virginia here. I just picked up a '01 Bombardier Quest 650 on the cheap (seller couldn't get it to start). After correctly plumbing the fuel pump (new pump the prior owner installed but had the hoses going backwards lol) and cleaning the carb and fuel tank, repaired all the batt - and batt+ connections she lives!! I had swore to the wife unit I wouldn't be dragging another "project" home but I couldn't pass it up, it had new tires, new starter, new fuel pump and low hrs. All's good after she took it for a ride! 😆 It rides like a tank, very stable and tons of power.

Mine told me one day I dont know why a grown A## man needs 3 four wheelers, i thought about it for a couple of seconds and said you are right. Thats all they want is to be right.

"Just one more..." is the little white lie that keeps on giving.

GEORGIA!!

I sent you both a message. I think everyone’s point of view and suggestions are valuable. What’s not valuable is the extra banter that goes on from opposing views. All the banter does is increase the post count and discourage people from participating. The topic starter gets to pick the solution from posts made within the topic. That really should be it.

No that would be the Democratic supports who thinks crazy Joe is doing a wonderful job while running this country into the ground....

We ride the dunes in Oregon, including Florence, Winchester Bay, Coos Bay, Sand Lake, and the Christmas valley Sand dunes, as part of the Spartan Racing team. We travel frequently and record all of our riding adventures. You may find our films on YouTube at SpartanRacing43's Channel polaris rzr accessories. Check them out and let us know what you think. Please be honest if you don't like them and let us know. We also welcome any suggestions on how to make them better. Almost every weekend, we arrange outings and are constantly seeking for more individuals to ride with. You may visit the website at Localheroesnw.com to learn more about us and Local Heroes North West.

It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.

You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

Hi, I have been around everything with a motor since I was little, and finally purchased more to get my husband, and kids involved. I have 4 quads I will be searching around for information on. I have two 2002 Suzuki LT80K quads, a 1997 Yamaha Timberwolf 250, and a 1996 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I have had different ones throughout the years, and plan on buying another Yamaha Banshee. I plan on trying to learn more about all of them, so I can customize some of them. I know nothing about them besides how to race them, my dad always took care of the rest, but figured it was time for me to learn.

Congratulations, welcome to the group. They have lots of manuals here for free. Get you some shop manuals for each one. The manuals and this group should help you out with just about anything.

I'd wriggle all the wires as a first step. If it is a chafed insulation and you disturb it and move it so it's not touching anymore it can be the real mongrel thing trying to find it after that and you end up with an ongoing and intermittent problem. If it's a faulty component it will always be faulty.. plenty of time to find that.

I have had good luck with Caltric parts as well, but i havent used one of their carbs.

I think it will be flooding. Some carbs that drain screw drains the water from the bottom of the bowl and out that nipple, but the nipple is actually attached to a brass tube in the bowl that goes up high and drains fuel if it gets too high.. Or to explain it differently, the nipple goes to a tall overflow tube, and the drain screw just lets fuel bypass the top of the overflow and go straight into the tube from the bottom. Hope that makes sense. And yeah, the fluctuating speed and all could definitely be caused by changing float level.. Once you have it off then you can give it a good clean and know it's good. I'd do it. And.. I take heaps of carbs apart, clean them and put them together again without changing a single part, and they are all good. The only problem is if the rubber gasket between the bowl and body is old and shrunk or swollen and doesn't want to stay in it's groove when it's time to put it back together.. Then I fit it all carefully all the way around holding it down with a 25 thou feeler gauge to hold it flat and in the groove till I've pressed the bowl into place, then I slip the feeler out. Everything else goes back together easy. Take every brass bit out and clean them. Clean the tiny holes in the sides of the emulsion tube the main jet screws into and that the slide needle drops down into. Take the float needle seat out and check the O ring or gasket that seals between it and the body. People seem to assume it's only the seat and needle that play up and leave the seat in.. Bad plan.

You are trying to get the screws out, the ones that hold the float bowl on ? Get an impact driver bit, it's called a No2, and tap it with a small hammer before you try turning it, that seats the driver and loosens the threads, then use the impact driver if you have one, or use a spanner on the bit while you push the bit down hard. If all else fails use channel lock pliers and get them out or cut a slot and use a conventional screwdriver. The screws are just a common metric thread. I'm pretty sure they will be four mill. An engineering supply or auto supply shop should have a plastic box with a range of metric bolts that will do the job, they sell them individually, or a bike shop will have some laying around probably. Four mill is the outside diameter, and what they get described as..

You might check to make sure the throttle plate is going all the way back and not binding open slightly. Other than that good reasearch i have never tried using OEM parts in a chinese carb, really didnt think they would work.

The idle fuel jet has to have the right size air jet to go with it, and they both have to be suitable for the mixture adjusting screw, which can have different diameter and taper needles, and, the main and it's air jet have to be matched and suit the slide, slide needle and discharge/emulsion tube, and both those different fuel ranges, idle and main, both have to be suitable/matched for one other. The low speed air and fuel jets have to suit the air and fuel main jets. And whole carbs, even when everything is set up and mixes well with no flat spots or wasted fuel, needs to matched to the type of engine it's fitted to. Road bike carbs are set up different to work bikes or scramblers. Even twin cam cam engines are different set up to the same engine with a single cam, not because of the cam specifically, but because of the different power band they've used the twin cam or single cam to achieve. It is best to stick with what the manufacturer has gone to so much trouble sorting out for us. Oh yeah. I don't think the ignition timing will be out either.. I was just saying it does make the plugs burn whiter.

I very rarely find one of these out of time, those engines are very resiliant and the valves rarely need adjusting, but this one is older and more than likely been rode hard and put up wet many times. Wrong plug will definately do it, i usually just put in the factory recommended plug. Then there is the carb most of the after market carbs that i have seen have 25 jets, which may be right since the aftermarket ones are slightly different, but the OEM one is 22.5 and the kits i have bought also have the 22.5, but it may not be correct in the aftermarket carb. I think i would keep working on the OEM carb, see if you can get it to factory specs. Aftermarket carbs seem to run lean right out of the box even with the 25 jet, so that might be some of your problem. I have noticed the same spitting and sputtering and not smoothe acceleration with them, that is why i have been working to get all of mine back on OEM carbs.

Yeah Gw's right about using the easy-out. If you drill it out too much the easy-out will spread the screw if it's tight and make things worse. Drill it a bit and then try the easy-out. Then if it doesn't turn drill it further. As long as you get the hole real well centered you can drill them fairly thin. I prefer to use an old fashioned egg-beater drill because it's slow and delicate drilling. Heat on the aluminium does help as well.. I've found the most effective part of it though is tapping the outside of that aluminium tube, and if you have thin lube down the hole, the tapping helps it work down the threads even if you don't spread the metal to enlarge the hole. Lube and tap it then drill it, then use an easy-out, or drive a small steel jewelers screwdriver into the hole.. The screwdriver won't spread the hole as much as the easy-out.. if you choose the right size drill and screwdriver.

I would try everything possible to get it out, before drilling, that is a tiny screw and would be easy to get into the threads and then the carburetor is ruined. I would soak it completely in a combo mixture of carb cleaner and penetrating oil, and use heat if there is no head left on the screw at all and it down in the hole, then you have to drill a small hole and use the smallest ease out and it still may be too big, i dont like using easeouts but are sometimes necessary.

Fellas fellas, why are we talking about politics? This is a ATV form? Not a controversial post on Facebook…

I’m confused, did we have Ukraine, Israel, Houthis/Iran, and the Mexican border crisis during the Trump presidency? The American president taking a conciliatory approach affects the whole world and makes us weak. That’s why this is all happening. It looks to me like Biden is more concerned about his resting and story time. The guy has aged so much that it’s hard to watch his mannerisms and fumbles. World leaders see this as well and take advantage of the presidential term by who’s in it.

Hello everyone, I'm excited to join the forum today! My name's Noah and I am 30 years old. I look forward to gaining new knowledge, sharing my experience and benefiting from members' insightful advice. Thank you in advance for the welcome.

I have come to this conclusion because if you look at the parts diagram the steering, a-arms, and knuckles are all the same part numbers even up to the foreman and rubicons the only difference is they’re is a “puck” instead of the cv axle as seen in this picture (it’s number 8 that I’m talking about)

I have actually, but I only buy ones with a high level of good reviews. I have found that on more than one occasion where I’ve had a part failure from something purchased on Amazon, I should have read the reviews!

ATV riders get a bad rep for tearing up the land making a muddy mess noisy and dangerous riding, all that is fun, but i try to keep it at a bay if im on public land, you have other riders too be curtious around, i save my foolish riding for my own land.

It wasn't ATV related, it was related to a long running local television show here in Ohio (movie host) and I owned and operated the website/forum, eventually I stepped down and handed the keys away. It was quite a time consuming thing. lol...I used to get calls in the middle of the night from moderators because spammers were posting hundreds of threads. I had enough of that, was fun though.

Yeah the plunger needs drawing out for choke, and they only work at idle, and it needs to be a slow idle, with the butterfly or slide closed right down. They draw extra air and fuel around past the butterfly or slide and that doesn't work unless the throttle is closed off .

Yes

It is a drum brake but it has a twin piston caliper, it sounds like the caliper is hanging up, i would pull it off lube it up a bit and see if that helps, the pistons may be sticking also, go ahead and check that out while you have it off, or you could replace it, thats what i did , they are fairly cheap, actually cheaper than the OEM kit, and i really didnt want to mess around rebuilding it.

Thanks guys, I do like this site. A lot of good information.

They say that arctic cat use suzuki engines, and a lot of their air-boxes look like suzuki too.. Just saying !

Buy a bigger bit of bare land somewhere cheap and get a caravan, build an illegal shed and start living. Practical skills go well in the country.. Good luck.

I'm more worried that China and America have just come to an agreement that climate change is real.. After everyone else has been saying it for years, and now they decide it's bad, and they need to do something.. I'm worried what the two of them will decide is needed to protect them from this "new" threat, and who's going to pay for their sudden concern..

Nothing in those petulant and irrational arguments change the fact that self mutilation does not change your gender. On a chemical level, your using suppresive drugs to . . change nothing. just prevent NATURAL biological processes from occuring. On a neurological level transgenderism fails as well. Been pretty well substantiated for quite awhile that men and women respond differently neurologically as well. Physically, just on the basis of skeletal structure alone no MALE body is capable of giving Natural Childbirth. STOP ranting insanity about promoting child abuse, self mutilation and scarification (on several levels) and empowering self destructive mental illnesses with all your talk about inclusivity and love. Love isnt rife with lies and Delusion. and for christ's sake quit trying to rationalize your twisted agenda before jesus whips off a Flip Flop and goes full temple trashing.

Newbi, if you’re going to ride atv’s sooner or later you’ll have to learn to work them. I’m no expert but will share what I know with you. Just ask and if I know am willing to help out. Welcome to the forum

I'm jobles09, or Jay for short. New to the forum. I'm here cause I'm looking for wiring diagrams for my 1988 suzuki quadrunner 250 4x4. Got it from a friend. Didn't run when I got it. Has been flawless for over a year. Took it on the trail fist time, and it developed a short in the neutral / staring system. That's why I'm here. 4 wheeler is told to just got buy this info. Would like to find a service manual if it was still possible. Anyhow 👋. Cant wait to see the responses.

Morning. I'd missed that earlier post with the diagram. That washer and the one next to it work together to stop that gear 21 and 23 from moving length-ways. They are all cross cut gears though and there really isn't much end thrust; the washers are not doing much. I'm a bit dubious about them alone being the cause.. Once the gear is engaged, the roller should only be being touched if the gear had slid along the shaft a little, but it won't be pressing hard against it, or causing any chattering that could fatigue it.. I don't think anyway.. I'm presuming that the fork goes on part 20 ? I'd check that (20) fit on it's hub, part 21. I'd be checking it can't rock and allow that wear in the arch of the fork. I'd also check the fit of gear 22 on it's hub 23 looking for the same wear that would allow it to rock on it's bush 23. I think that either of those, if they could and were leaning slightly, as they would be to touch the fork, could and would chatter because of the three engaging dogs on part 20. If 20 was leaning over slightly, or gear 22 was leaning over slightly, then as the shaft and gears rotated the three dogs would force it, with some force, to keep trying to lean the other way once every 180 degrees of rotation. That force could chatter and break a roller..

Hello im From Poland i have Kawasaki ATV greetings

Tried . . . failed. got a heck of a shiner from it. I'm good at ducking and rolling into the unexpected but oops, ya git hit once in awhile anyway. That last large blow down top was the one that got me. If ya look close as Im walking back after picking up my helmet and cam, you can see stick poking up from the front of my bike. It (one in a million?) slid up in the adjustment slot on my gun (moose) fork and that whipped the tree top down under the visor. I thought I was going off until my lid went flying. Still a good ride and a good day. If Id been on the throttle it would have been bad. Ill take a chainsaw next time . . . once was enough.

You remove the engine side cover that says Automatic Variable Drive Polaris on it and the belt is right there. Im recalling a 99 model yours should be the same.

From Canadia eh

Scarecrow, from Oklahoma, next year moving to my property in Eastern Arkansas to build an off grid homestead to live and teach my kids the old ways while I'm young enough to physically be able to do so. We have an 80's big red honda 3, an 03 honda rancher 350 4x4, and my newest project a kawasaki bayou 300 4x4 I'm trying to figure out.

Hey, look, I'm new but a topic I know a lot about! I'm an ex ignition systems engineer, and I used to work as a test engineer at NGK here in the US. CDI is capacitive discharge ignition. This is a VERY complicated topic, but I seem to be pretty good at analogies. Quick background: an ignition coil is an inductive device, you apply voltage to one side of the coil, and you generate a magnetic field, when that field is collapsed very quickly, the secondary side of the coil will generate voltage that is proportional to the winding ratio on the primary and secondary (12volts in, 40,000volts out). Capacitance is created whenever you have two metal plates within close proximity of one another. For example, an ignition coil in the head (like in a coil on plug engine) creates capacitance because of the close proximity between the coil and the head. Capacitance can be added via special boxes or even some spark plugs (pulstar, if they are still around, but don't use them...) So, what does that mean for spark? Well, capacative discharge occurs very quickly over a very small amount of time (think nanoseconds), while inductive discharge occurs over a longer time, think microseconds. So, analogy time. Think of a coil as a gear reduction with a flywheel on it. The flywheel has a clutch that engages and disengages a water pump. When you apply a 12 RPM input to the gear reduction, you get 40,000RPM on the output, but it takes a while to spin up. So, when you start spinning the input and the flywheel is spinning, this is like the dwell time. Once the flywheel is spun up sufficiently, the clutch engages the water pump, and water starts to flow into a hose. At the end of the hose is a valve that will open at a certain pressure (this pressure changes, and is analogous to the required voltage to breakdown the spark gap). "There is some stretch in the hose, so when the valve opens there is a little bit more flow for a short time, once that's done, the pump keeps pumping until the flywheel runs down." The small stretch in the hose is like the capacitance of a standard ignition system. Once the valve is opened, the flywheel energy pumps out what it can, and then it's done. A CDI system is like adding a big pressure tank to the end of the hose. Once the pressure starts to build, more and more water is stored in the tank. Once the valve opens, a HUGE tremendous amount of water comes out, but for a very short time. Once the tank is done, the flywheel/pump still pumps a little bit out. So, the pressure tank is like capacitive discharge, and the flywheel pump is inductive discharge. So, what's the advantage? Well, the problem with a spark plug is something called quenching. When spark occurs, there is a very small flame kernel that is susceptible to quenching via nearby relatively cool metal, like the plug, the head, etc. Increasing ignitability reduces this quenching effect, which is actually the benefit of fine wire spark plugs. CDI helps this by providing a lot more energy in a very short time. Some CDI systems help even more by allowing more current on the primary side (hence the need for bigger wires). So anyway, that's what I can add, hopefully it helps.