Frank Angerano

Definitely check all the connections and think about anything that could have happened like a smashed wire somehow, have you tried to jump start the bike with a car by chance ? That can cause problems internally with the rectifier and cdi as well as he stator. Over amperage kills that stuff easy.

Is the starter mounted on the bike ? If so then maybe it’s locked up some how. Are you seeing a slight spark when you apply direct voltage ? And also can you remover the starter if it’s installed.

Ohm out tye stator and see if it’s in range

Bad brushes.

That Could be possable. Test the stator and see what you get and go from there. Have you checked all the connections as well as your grounding from the battery to the frame? Was the regulator/rectifier an oem part or aftermarket?

Here a few pages from the manual. It’s not the same year but should be close enough if not the same. I would also start the bike up and put a tester on the battery and see how much voltage your getting at the battery. As your checking rev the engine a little and see if it changes. Are you handy with an electrical tester ?

Hey @go2glamis welcome to Quadcrazy. I would check your stator coil. It could be over charging the system. Or not charging at all. You need to see what voltage you have coming from the stator as well as do an ohms test on it. The engine should run with the battery disconnected, the lights and accessories would not work properly and may shut the engine down if you were to turn them on due to a heavy draw but the engine should run with the battery disconnected.

I could see that thing working as a good dolly to put a atv on while pulling wheels off or working on the engine to get it up to a decent hight and moving it around.

Get it running as best possable. Wash the sh** out of it and hit it with some armor all and sell it! I gave mine away to a friend for his son only bc I was nervous about selling a bike that only ran when it wanted to. I didn’t want anyone coming back to me saying it’s a broken piece of junk! Very finicky. It was a 50 cc bike. Still runs good but needs a new sp every other week. Be honest with the buyer and let them know there not getting a rolls Royce and its a good starter bike to learn on but needs maintenance to keep it going.

Cool looking little thing. That’s a nice little red wagon too! 😬

I don’t see them having a rev limiter due to the low cost of these bikes so you may be looking for something that’s not there in the first place.

Glad to hear you found it. If you can’t get one of the long stem mixture screws where you are located then get creative and make up a small right angle screwdriver out of a small flat heat. I have in the past purchased a small flat head screwdriver and heated it up and bent tye top (flat head part) 90deg about one inch down. The second way is to take a small Allen key and grind the bent tip down to a flat tip. It’s bent already and easy to do and use. I’m sorry I never really know where everyone is from. I just assume most members are closer. I did the same thing this week by showing a member from Australia an item on Amazon and he said they don’t have Amazon there!!! 😬Just goes to show you how far Quadcrazy reaches out!! Good luck and let us know how you do please!

Is it tied Into the throttle control on the handle bars ?

I think the company based on the video was cv performance. I looked on amazon they are listed. I’m always watching videos like this. I like that adjustment screw.

So there is always chatter of the air/fuel mixture screw accessibility on the carburetors we all work on. So I found this clip and thought it was interesting. This goes back to a post today about carburetors not having an air/fuel adjustment screw as well as getting to the darn thing to make an adjustment! Thsi videoclip clarifies the way it’s found and taken care of for some of tye carbs we come across. Furthermore which I found to really like was the replacement air/fuel screw that was put back in place from the original making adjustment a ton easier! No more fancy angle screwdrivers. Let me know what you think. It’s a quick video.

Great oil.

It has to have the fuel air fuel screw. Some of them have a plug over them that has to be removed. Weather drilled out or popped out. It should be on the bottom of the carburetor look for a round metal plug

2-1/2 is where I start. But I’ve leared over the years that the smaller engines like my 220 bayou or my 250 bear tracker like to run at 1-3/4 turns out. My old bayou 400 was -2-1/2 turns out and and a hair further to be perfect. Have you checked for any rev limiters on the bike ? Does the throttle have any wiring going into it ?

Yes I do have a standard letter that I use all the time. I could show you if you wanted to use it. It makes me feel better god for bid it turns out to be a stolen bike. But honestly I have a gut feeling when I buy my bikes and any inclination of a bad vibe and I’m out! I have a good sense of bullshit so I know for the most part based on questions I ask the seller.

The ultrasound cleaner is great but will not get everything cleaned. You may have to pull the carb off again and clean it out using a small piece of wire to get inside the jets. Use air to blow out all the orafaces. The float may be getting stuck and that may be your reason why fuel is not getting up into the carburetor. Did you remember where the air/fuel screw was set at before you broke it down? If not set it at 2-1/4 turns out from a snug position. And adjust from there either in or out, which ever way the bike runs better while the bike is running and the air cleaner is installed. You may have to figure out a way to turn that air/fuel screw or make up a small angle screwdriver while the bike is running. Lastly what made you think it was the carburetor in the first place? What pointed you in that direction ? Had the bike been sitting ?

Yep I have to have that bill of sale. God forbid the bike is stolen. It’s my only defense. And you also need that signed and printed name bill of sale attached to the DMV form The dmv form here in my is a 51-b. It’s total cost of about $100 bucks and three weeks in the mail. They offer expedited service for $30 bucks more. One week turns around.

That’s a good question. I buy and sell bikes all the time. I would say 60% to 70% door have papers. I always get a bill of sale signed and printed with tye atv number on the bill of sale. I fill out a form on the dmv web site and get titles for the bikes. It’s pretty simple. (As long as they don’t come back stolen)with the vin check. And other times I get a bill of sale and just flip it like that. But I think it’s pretty common as bikes change hands a lot and paperwork gets lost.

I hear you. But can you honestly tell you I’ve been riding for about 35 years. So many different bikes and manufacturers. I think Honda is the most reliable on utility bikes. And the racers are also great and hold value. The two bayous I’ve had one was a 400. Beat the crap out of it with no problems. I have the 220 Bayou now and it’s been great so far. My yamaha bear tracker so far so good. Even my old Polaris Phoenix was a great bike but finicky from time to time. I truly think they are all fair bikes but Honda holds together well. I honestly feel that if you look you will find that of all the all the older bikes still around Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha will be the top bikes you can still find. Polaris are there but not as avalabale due to them just not lasting. I could be wrong but I am always looking for bikes. Always, and I find Polaris bikes are not around.

Can am way over rated! As far as Polaris out doing all other brands !! Nope ! Not a chance.

It’s not about knowing more or less then any one member. This is not just a forum for repair and help. It’s also a forum for posting your pics and showing others what your bike is like and the areas you ride etc. there’s a ton of other stuff here.