Frank Angerano

Cheery is over rated. Reliable is key. I have a ton of inexpensive tricks to make it look great but you have to make sure the mechanical end of it is ok first. So once your past that you can ask away on the aesthetics part. What did you pay if I may ask ? Any luck with getting the numbers to pop on the vin?

I would look into a universal one. I attached a few pics for you. They are on amazon. I’ve used on on my 90 cc Polaris and it worked great. As far as rebuilding the carb I’m going to ask the same old questions I ask everyone else including myself; did you miss anything while cleaning? I have done it myself. Also after cleaning a carburetor it got jammed up again because something in the tank got back in because I didn’t put a fuel filter in. Also the air fuel mixture screw. What position did you set it in when you rebuilt it? 1-1/4 turns out ? 2-1/2 turns out? from a snug tight position. Some bikes and carbs are different so maybe 2 turns or 1-3/4 turns. It takes some testing. I like to turn the idle way down to where the bike almost stalls and set the fuel air screw to 2-1/2 turns and adjust it while the bike is running (air filter installed) and turn it in either direction until the motor revs up to its highest/best set point. Then adjust the idle accordingly. Bottom line the engine will have its highest rpm when adjusted properly and it’s a matter of lowering the idle at that point. If you don’t get a change in the engine performance while turning the mixture screw then the screw is in need of replacement as it’s worn down.

Yes 100 percent it will. What do you have in place now? The air box and filter are designed to somewhat balance the air intake so having it off will change the amount of air flow coming into the carburetor and the fuel air mixture as well as allow dirt to get into and possibly hurt the carburetor. There are replacement aftermarket air filters that clamp on that can help you out if you can’t get the right air box. Check amazon and even eBay for the exact one for your bike.

Yep that will work fine and yes the ground will be fine anywhere on the chassis. You won’t have to add a fuse on the wire since the lighting circuit is already protected at the fuse block but you can if you want it can’t hurt. Juts be sure your tapping the running light and not the brake light.

See like I said he knows tons! I really like that style bike. I’m sure we will collectively get to the bottom of this as well as getting it fired up and dialed in.

A few pics from above the number.

Definitely good advice. I’ve been lucky tg and not had a lot of rust on my vin#s. I always use a very soft grade brass wire wheel. It helps clean the number grooves out for the crayon purposes. But I agree with @davefrombc he knows a ton and don’t want to make things worse.

The new light can be wired into the low beam circuit tapping only the 12v (red) leg of the new light and attaching the black wire (negative) side to the chassis as a ground. The amperage should be fine. However when you turn the high beams on the light will not stay on since the low beam circuit looses power when high beam circuit comes on. You can tap into the high beam circuit and only use the new light bar while the high beams are on. Or use a separate wiring with a switch and have independent control of the light. That’s only a two wire set up one ground and the other to the battery with a fuse as close to the battery as possable on the red wire.

I looked on eBay there are a few up for grabs anywhere from $399 to $900. Is the old engine completely gone ? Can’t rebuild ?

Just hit it good with a wire wheel and take a pic with the phone. You will be able to make it out. You can also run a white crayon over the numbers and then lightly use a piece of sandpaper to take off the excess crayon leaving the white in the vin number. Take a pic of that also. You can really zoom in with the pics. Speaking of a wire wheel that’s what I use on the metal racks when mine look like that. I put a course wheel in the drill and go to town on the metal and hit them with some black paint and they come out great. Post a few pics of the vin we will help you identify. It looks like a good intact bike.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. The vin is stamped on the frame in the front cross bar right behind the main front bumper/steel bar. You will find it there. As for the carburetor and choke cable you should be able to take the carb off and clean it good with carb cleaner and some small wires to clean out the jets. Also a small can of compressed air will help. The choke cable can be freed up taking the end off the control and holding it up high and spraying wd-40 into it and letting it sit. Or remove it completely and roll it up and soak the entire cable in oil. The gas fill valve (petcock) I would replace it entirely as its cheap enough. Replacing the seals may not work or only for so long. Fresh spark plug as well and clean the gas tank out when the petcock is off the tank. I like to use a dishwashing soap like dawn and warm water. With the tank off I put soap and water put the cap on and shake it up good and rinse it out. And put the new petcock in.

That place looks sick. It also has cabins to rent and atv storage.

Have you tried eBay ?

Your welcome enjoy brother. Ride safe.

That was a great thread on the runs bad bayou! And well said Jacob. Start with the easy stuff first. It does not cost a thing and eliminates any of that ahead of the heavy stuff.

Guys check this place out! The prices are sick and it’s even got underground riding! Camp the weekend etc! https://www.minesandmeadows.com/

That would be a great trip.

Theses are all very good points and super helpful. Especially the members that have this particular bike. It’s great to see everyone’s different opinion on the problem/solution. From fuel/air, valves,belts which all are valid and possible. @Christian Brindle please let us know how you make out with this problem. I’m curious to see how this turns out and what the problem is/was.

Your welcome. Safe riding.

Maybe a road trip to VA in the near future if @JacobSlabach has some places to ride ! Go see some moonshine stills! 🤣

I would try to set that air/fuel screw to 2-1/4 turns out from a snug tight position and see how that goes. And also be sure you cleaned the carb properly and put a new plug in as well.

Should be located under the front plastic right in front of the handlebars.

I’m not sure on your bike. But all you would have to do is follow the wire from the bulb back to the switch. The G/L wire on the diagram. It will lead you right to the switch. In the mean time I will look at your bike and see if I can’t locate it in the manual.

The reverse light will only come on when you put it in reverse where the shifter makes ground contact through a switch obviously. So the 12v positive wire (br) on the diagram going to the light #20 should always have 12v when the key is on. The ground wire coming from the reverse switch may have a problem or the wire coming from it going to the bulb. Disconnect that wire #21 that provides the ground and see if the light goes off. If not then that wire is grounded someplace from the bulb socket to the reverse switch. If it does go off then the reverse switch is not working properly. Take a tester and see if you have continuity from that wire on the switch to a good ground when the bike is NOT in reverse. If so the switch is broken and constantly grounded.

Check and see the choke, it may be stuck. Double check that and the cable but look good because sometimes it’s the choke connector inside the carburetor. If that’s all clear it’s possible that the carburetor needs an adjustment. But you have to figure out why because if it was running good and just started acting up then you have to find out what. So if the bike was fine before then something changed that. Maybe a piece of debris/dirt got into the carburetor somehow, maybe form dirt inside the tank, bad gas who knows. Also look at the air intake and make sure filters are all good and nothing got sucked into the carburetor like a piece of the air filter if it was crumbling. I would start there.