Frank Angerano

It’s great stuff. Put some pics up when it’s done.

I am!

There are apps on your phone you can download that are speedometers. They are spot on accurate. Download the app and take a ride in the car and compare you will be shocked. Clip the phone to the quad and you can see how fast it goes. Not a fix but you can get an idea on how fast your going.

You have to take the carburetor off of the bike and completely tear it down. You will need a small piece of wire to clean every small port on the carburetor as well as a small can of air to blow out the carburetor ports while your cleaning it. The part of the carburetor that’s probably jammed up is the float and fill needle inside the bowl. Not allowing fuel to get into the engine. Make sure you work on a clean surface and blow every small oraface out of the carburetor. There is also a fuel air mixture screw on the carburetor before you take that out it would be best to count how many turns it is set at from a snug tight position so you put it right back where it was or close to it when your done.

Agreed.

I agree with the air and vent/vac lines having minimal impact on the air box and it’s baffling. I’m just trying to look at everything. @Kurt Reiser has said he’s checked for any obstruction on all openings air filter etc so how can this be? Very strange.

That part on the throttle was most likely a rev limiter. Major problems with them on some of the Polaris bikes. I’ve learned that personally on one of mine. Backfire issues, reving spitting you name it. I removed it and the bike ran perfect ! Thanks to some of the memebers on this very forum with that info and you know who you are! 👍 As far as your clicking if it’s independent suspension it’s prob the axle joint making the clicking sound. ESP if it’s on turns only. Very similar to a CV joint on a car. The trans not engaging till half throttle is a clutch issue. Weather it’s worn (prob so) or springs my guess is it’s just tired.

Hoses connected to the air box like the vacuum etc ? Did you try to disconnect them lines and reconnect to the carb and see how that is ?

Lol that’s great. Into the darkness!!!! The rims do come out well. So as far as the plastics if your intent is to paint them black then you might as well experiment with them a little bit and see what you can do. Ive tried heat guns at a safe distance. It works so so. I’ve water sanded and buffed out. Same result so so! I’ve trained everything to no avail. But I’ve water sanded and ran them up to a local body guy and asked him to spray them in a booth. $100 bucks and they are like new in a gloss black. Cheaper way to go is buy rolls of vinyl from amazon and cut out your own patterns and place them on where you want and hit the vinyl with a heat gun and they shrink right into any bends or corners of the plastics and look great. They sell all sorts of colors and even camo. Check out one of my posts on my daughters bike. Pink camo patterns home made. You can also look up spray painting on you tube and find tons of info.

Lol it was pretty funny stuff.

Any progress?

Never be sorry to ask. Better safe then sorry. Moving the clip to the top notch lessens the amount of fuel coming in. Moving the clip to the bottom of the needle allows more fuel to flow. Where is it at now ? (The clip)

Ok the reason I’m asking: 1. I’m wondering if there is a problem with the vacuum where as soon as you hook the air box up the vacuum lines are drawing all the air from the air box starving the air flow into tye carburetor. Why? No clue! Just wondering if that’s what’s going on. May sound stupid but you never know Try to move the needle on the carburetor and see how that goes. Make sure you remember where the clip was on the needle before you move it. If that’s not the fix then disconnect all hoses going to the air box, reconnect to the carb and try to run the bike and see what happens. Side note. That clip and spring set up in the carburetor can be tedious. Parts can fly off and never to be found again. Work in an area that will prevent that from happening.

That saw I bought from HF about 5 years ago. The compound slide version. That saw was good for what I needed it for however whenever I used it the electric motor gave off a burning smell that resembled marajuana. So my customers would look at me funny and I had to explain that it’s the saw. I had to turn the saw on to show them. I still have the saw and use it for only demo work now since I’ve upgraded to a better saw but that one did the job and yes it still smells. It’s a smell from the electric brushes but man it was a weird smell.

That’s a good point. Maybe adjust the main jet needle on the carb. Take the carb off and pull the vacuum slide out and see where the needle is set. I’ve attached a pic. It’s possable that tye needle is set wrong. Good point @JacobSlabach

Quick question. Is there any other hose that connects to the air box from the engine ?

Yep the after market ones are nice. But if the bike is solid then it may be worth it. Whenever I pick up a new project bike I take the rims down to bare metal and prime and paint. They always come back to a real nice finish. It’s not a lot of work and the end result is always rewarding and worth the effort. So if you have a wire wheel for the drill and some sand paper, spray paint you can pick up a used set of steel rims and make them look new.

No problem on the help I don’t think I’m really making any progress with my suggestions. It’s just the way I would go as far as troubleshooting for now. Since the cams etc are much more involved. I like to go the simple stupid way at first and get more involved if needed. But most of the time it’s a surface problem not so involved Maybe a fuel delivery problem or a clogged oraface in the carburetor etc hopefully. If that’s not working then you have to go deeper. I can’t see the bike running great without the air box on and running bad with it installed as anything other then an air fuel thing. Maybe im wrong but I just don’t see how it can’t be a localized carburetor or fuel problem. I am not a fan of any aftermarket carbs except for the super high end manufacturers which would cost you the same price as the oem carb. Aftermarket carbs work and start the bike up with no problem. As soon as you hit the gas the problems start. Flat spots bogging etc. oem carbs can be rebuilt and are the way to go with replacement. Even if it’s a used oem carb from eBay. I would download the manual and start to go through the carburetor settings and even go as far as pulling off and cleaning it yourself. Making sure that it’s properly dork and the right fuel/air screw was used in the carburetor when it was rebuilt. Go back and double check the air box. Hook it back up and take the cover off of the air box and see what that does.

I have had to make a few different types of screwdrivers to get In there while the bike is running. Each bike is didfent of course. Even small mirrors to see what I’m doing. You cannot fully adjust a bike without it running. I like to hear and feel a change in the engine as you adjust. And you should clearly see the engine change it’s attitude as you adjust. If not then the air fuel screw needs replacing as it’s worn or damaged.

Nice looking bike. Time for some new tires it looks! That Honda bike has always been one of my favorites. All though I love my 4x4’s that bike is my bike of choice for a sport bike. I’ve never heard of the trx 700xx model though. Trx yes but the xx? I don’t see it getting to 80 mph but I bet it gets close. Good luck with it and ride safe.

Was there another other change in the way the engine ran while making adjustments? The engine should have changed the way it ran worse or rom change ?

I checked eBay there seems to a few sets of used rims. They range from $85 to $100.

It’s on the bottom of the carb. There may be a small metal plug covering up the screw but it’s there someplace. All carburetors have a mixture screw. Also have you checked the manifold that the carburetor mounts to on the engine side for any cracks ?

Ok so let’s go back to the carb. It’s obviously starving for air with the filter box on. Juts because Polaris rebuilt it does not mean they didn’t miss something. Maybe it’s set wrong ? Any backfires? I would try to adjust the air/fuel mixture screw and see what happens. You should remember where it is before you do anything. Screw it into a snug position but count the rotation of turns to that position and write it down so you know. This way you can always go back to that setting. Then try setting it at a different point. For instance if it’s 1-3/4 turns out from snug then go 2-1/2 turns out. Test the bike and keep at it. You will get it.

It’s just a matter of taking the fuel line that goes to the carb off and putting it in a cup and crank the engine until you see fuel come from the line line in your cup. Once that’s done you should be good to go. I like to take the spark plug wire off and tuck it away safe so the bike does not start if you have any fuel left in the carburetor.