Frank Angerano

That is a great question. It could be that your spark is breaking down at some point and soaking the plug because no or poor spark. Definitely a good possibility. @06kfx440 👍

That plug is usually up in one of the holes on the skid plate. It’s definitely there so you are going to have to really get under it and feel around. Even wash it out. I had a Yamaha with a skid plate. It was packed with dried mud. After a little hosing down and looking I found it. As far as the oil level there should be a sight glass or an indicator level on the oil plug almost like a dip stick but one or the other it’s there. As far as oil a good 10w40 will be fine. There was actually a topic on this today in the forum about oils. Take a look. Be gentle with that oil plug when removing and reinstalling. You over tighten it and it strips or even worse crack the engine casing where the threads are.

Your float in the bowl may be getting a little jammed up allowing excess fuel to get into the engin/head thus flooding out the sp. The float has a pivot point where it mounts to the carburetor. Either it’s getting stuck on the way up or the pin that the float pushes up is getting stuck. I know the over flow would show signs of fuel dumping out but it may not be so severe that it’s showing. Also one more thing. The top of that pin has a rubber tip on it. Take a look and maybe replace the pin if needed. Check that the pivot point on the float looks straight and nothing is restricting its travel.

Awesome. Any problems let me know.

Here are the connectors you should need

Yea it’s pretty simple. The low beam light should have a small plug on it right behind the light assembly. Pull that off and leave it be. Just need a few feet of 14 gauge stranded wire red preferably and one inline fuse and a crimper. And they sell connectors that will plug right back into the light fixture plug for your new wire. Your wire should have the new plug connector on one side and the inline fuse and a tap connector at the area of the ignition.

Simple solution is go to the ignition wires with a test light and find the wire that goes live (12v) when in third position and tap that with a wire connector and extend to your hid wire (fuse in between) right where you tap it. This way they are always on with the key. You have to disconnect the existing wire that’s feeding the hid now though.

That’s a good question. I would refer this to @wanrep He’s got some good info/knowledge on stuff like this. Maybe he can help.

Cheery is over rated. Reliable is key. I have a ton of inexpensive tricks to make it look great but you have to make sure the mechanical end of it is ok first. So once your past that you can ask away on the aesthetics part. What did you pay if I may ask ? Any luck with getting the numbers to pop on the vin?

I would look into a universal one. I attached a few pics for you. They are on amazon. I’ve used on on my 90 cc Polaris and it worked great. As far as rebuilding the carb I’m going to ask the same old questions I ask everyone else including myself; did you miss anything while cleaning? I have done it myself. Also after cleaning a carburetor it got jammed up again because something in the tank got back in because I didn’t put a fuel filter in. Also the air fuel mixture screw. What position did you set it in when you rebuilt it? 1-1/4 turns out ? 2-1/2 turns out? from a snug tight position. Some bikes and carbs are different so maybe 2 turns or 1-3/4 turns. It takes some testing. I like to turn the idle way down to where the bike almost stalls and set the fuel air screw to 2-1/2 turns and adjust it while the bike is running (air filter installed) and turn it in either direction until the motor revs up to its highest/best set point. Then adjust the idle accordingly. Bottom line the engine will have its highest rpm when adjusted properly and it’s a matter of lowering the idle at that point. If you don’t get a change in the engine performance while turning the mixture screw then the screw is in need of replacement as it’s worn down.

Yes 100 percent it will. What do you have in place now? The air box and filter are designed to somewhat balance the air intake so having it off will change the amount of air flow coming into the carburetor and the fuel air mixture as well as allow dirt to get into and possibly hurt the carburetor. There are replacement aftermarket air filters that clamp on that can help you out if you can’t get the right air box. Check amazon and even eBay for the exact one for your bike.

Yep that will work fine and yes the ground will be fine anywhere on the chassis. You won’t have to add a fuse on the wire since the lighting circuit is already protected at the fuse block but you can if you want it can’t hurt. Juts be sure your tapping the running light and not the brake light.

See like I said he knows tons! I really like that style bike. I’m sure we will collectively get to the bottom of this as well as getting it fired up and dialed in.

A few pics from above the number.

Definitely good advice. I’ve been lucky tg and not had a lot of rust on my vin#s. I always use a very soft grade brass wire wheel. It helps clean the number grooves out for the crayon purposes. But I agree with @davefrombc he knows a ton and don’t want to make things worse.

The new light can be wired into the low beam circuit tapping only the 12v (red) leg of the new light and attaching the black wire (negative) side to the chassis as a ground. The amperage should be fine. However when you turn the high beams on the light will not stay on since the low beam circuit looses power when high beam circuit comes on. You can tap into the high beam circuit and only use the new light bar while the high beams are on. Or use a separate wiring with a switch and have independent control of the light. That’s only a two wire set up one ground and the other to the battery with a fuse as close to the battery as possable on the red wire.

I looked on eBay there are a few up for grabs anywhere from $399 to $900. Is the old engine completely gone ? Can’t rebuild ?

Just hit it good with a wire wheel and take a pic with the phone. You will be able to make it out. You can also run a white crayon over the numbers and then lightly use a piece of sandpaper to take off the excess crayon leaving the white in the vin number. Take a pic of that also. You can really zoom in with the pics. Speaking of a wire wheel that’s what I use on the metal racks when mine look like that. I put a course wheel in the drill and go to town on the metal and hit them with some black paint and they come out great. Post a few pics of the vin we will help you identify. It looks like a good intact bike.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. The vin is stamped on the frame in the front cross bar right behind the main front bumper/steel bar. You will find it there. As for the carburetor and choke cable you should be able to take the carb off and clean it good with carb cleaner and some small wires to clean out the jets. Also a small can of compressed air will help. The choke cable can be freed up taking the end off the control and holding it up high and spraying wd-40 into it and letting it sit. Or remove it completely and roll it up and soak the entire cable in oil. The gas fill valve (petcock) I would replace it entirely as its cheap enough. Replacing the seals may not work or only for so long. Fresh spark plug as well and clean the gas tank out when the petcock is off the tank. I like to use a dishwashing soap like dawn and warm water. With the tank off I put soap and water put the cap on and shake it up good and rinse it out. And put the new petcock in.

That place looks sick. It also has cabins to rent and atv storage.

Have you tried eBay ?

Your welcome enjoy brother. Ride safe.

That was a great thread on the runs bad bayou! And well said Jacob. Start with the easy stuff first. It does not cost a thing and eliminates any of that ahead of the heavy stuff.

Guys check this place out! The prices are sick and it’s even got underground riding! Camp the weekend etc! https://www.minesandmeadows.com/

That would be a great trip.