Frank Angerano

Good point.

Maybe wire wheel it and take a white or yellow crayon and run over the numbers hard. Wipe the excess off or lightly sand it and take a pic. Just an idea.

Ok well I would watch a few videos on YouTube if I were you on cleaning or rebuilding an atv carburetor and in a half hour you will be a pro at taking them apart. Secondly if you haven’t seen the fuel/air screw it would be safe to say you’ve never touched it then ? If that’s true then it may be a simple adjustment to clear up the ping.

Wow, looks like a lot of new colors. I like the black out version looks crazy. We used to be able to identify a bike flying by after seeing its colors for the most part. This will surly throw a monkey wrench into that !!!

I don’t think that’s correct. The pilot jet is stationary and should be tight. The air/fuel screw should be 2-1/2 turns out from a snug tight position and adjusted slightly in either direction to make it perfect while the bike is running. But should only be adjusted after the air filter and air box cover is back on the bike. Just double check before you go tearing into it. Also are you positive the carb is 100% cleaned properly? Only reason I’m asking is I’ve cleaned carbs over and over and somehow someway a pice of junk got back in. Either form the tank or in the line someplace. I also like fuel filters.

No sir no bracket. I had to buy one. The one I bought was for my model bike and it’s a bolt on.

Wow that’s a funky color plug. So not to confuse the two, the temp light and the pinging are two separate issues and one should have nothing to do with the other. Having said that it seems like your slowly making improvements and getting it dialed in. The only thing I can add at this point is to keep making small changes in the carb and get it as close as possible and keep track of the changes so you can go back should any new changes make things worse. As for the temp light thing it’s just a matter of coolant running through the system and creating dead/hot spots where the sensor is would be my guess. Especially since you said you took it out for a few 10 mile rides without over heating. I hope your keeping some tools and extra fluids like coolant out on these long rides.

The optimal color has that brown toasty looking tip on it. See that light brown? That’s what I’m talking about.

By the way that plug should be a toasty brown. Was that a new plug ? Or newly installed ?

Nice work. Try to raise the clip on the needle and see if the pinging changes. It’s going to take some testing and time but it will be dialed in. Only thing I can go back to is the timing. I know you said it was all good just double check. Can’t hurt.

Sad

So here we go with all the dumb post to get to 10. @laddneu

If it’s just an over sized part for a bigger bike pull the wheel off and get a grinder take a quarter inch if it’s on the knuckle only. If it’s the tie rod also then your screwed and will have to swap it to the right one. And that’s a two piece part it’s possable that the whole part does not have to be changed. Just the upper control arm where the tie rod lands. Just a guess but would be a lot less labor.

Ok I would recommend high test and maybe an octane booster if need be. See if it goes away. One last thing I would check is the quality of your spark. Make sure it’s a strong blue spark and the gap is correct. And the pick up coil, ignition coil are in good shape. The quality of the spark will tell you.

Gotcha. Well you can’t take money to the grave. You can always make more money. 🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑 Ok well let’s see what it can do! I will be looking at the YouTube channel brother. Ride safe and welcome back.

Sounds great. Hopefully we can keep this one above sea level ? Or mud level!!! 😬 best of luck glad it’s back up and running. What was the final number on the repair $ 🤢?

Happy day !

Quick question I want to dumb this down a bit. Are you sure it’s not just a tie rod thats bad ? Is the tire just hitting the tie rod ball or the knuckle as well ?

Put a few washers on to give you some clearance for now until you figure this out. mean time you may find a new assembly on ebay depends on how much more you want to go for on this bike.

It could be possable that you didn’t reassemble the choke cable properly. Double check that. As far as the carb goes the setting on the carb for the air fuel screw should be about 2 and maybe a quarter turns out from a snug position. If the bike starts and runs then it’s just a small turn in or out to fine tune it. If the bike runs bad then reset the air fuel screw to a snug position and set it at 1-3/4 turns out from snug and see how that goes. Every bike is different so you just need to find a starting point to adjust from. Make sure the air filter is reinstalled befor the fine tune. You MUST be sure you cleaned the carb good. Get a can of compressed air and do it again just to be sure. Use a small piece of wire to clean out all the jets and orafaces. Take the can of compressed air that offices use to clean computer keyboards with and stick that small red hose that they give you in every port and blast it. Put a new spark plug in as well. Can’t hurt.

What are you running as far as octane high test ? If not boost the octane. See if it stops. Also when you put everything back together was the timing spot on? That’s important.

If you took that bike for a 10 mile ride and the temp light didn’t come on and the bike didn’t over heat then it should be good. I’ve seen instances where you have what’s called an “air bound” system. It’s essentially a stuck airball in the system that takes a big push of water pressure to push it through the system. Much like an air bound radiator in your house on a hot water heating system. Only difference is that home radiators have bleeders on them to get the air out. It’s very posable that this happened. So just keep an eye on it and you can look inside the radiator cap for fluid movement which will only happen after the thermostat is open. Take the cap off and start the bike and after about 10 min or so the water should start to flow. Is the cooling fan coming on properly also ?

Rims not likely both bent but you never know if that thing was slammed down on the front wheels. Is the wheel marked all the way around on the inside ? That would be a good indicator if the axle is bent or if it’s a constant rub then it would be more likely a wrong part or bearing issue axle in to far etc.

One thing I forgot to say is whenever I have things apart I’m a huge fan of taking care of something else that’s in the area. For instance I did my 400 bayou cams over. While the head was off I did the valve seals! The seals came with the head gasket. Never tackled them before but said how hard could it be ? Better yet how hard would it be to swallow the pill 💊 after putting that head back together to just find out it’s blowing smoke from a bad seal! So before you slap it back together take a good look around and see what else is in that area of work that you could take care of during the initial repair. Just sayin.

It happens. I’ve missed a few problems myself. The first two bikes I picked up were a hot mess. I bit the bullet and bought what was needed and fixed them. One I still have is my bear tracker runs great. Actually one of my very first posts here at Quadcrazy. The second which was the worst was the Polaris 90 cc two stroke. I put about $300 into that bike to get it back to good plus the manhours. Nobody thinks about the manhours! The bayou 220 I just posted needed a $13 dollar part and gasket kit, I could have just bought the one gasket for $8 bucks but picked up the entire set for $38 bucks just Incase I needed something else. The labor to get to that part was quite involved. I picked the bike up for a few hundred bucks put the parts in for about $80. Labor was about 10 hours to get it where it needed to be. Bike turned out great runs great and I’m currently putting it up for sale since I found a newer Polaris 300 4x4 that my boy likes. So if I get my price then it’s gone and I upgrade with the money. Having said that I have 95% of a bayou gasket kit for my fellow Quadcrazy members. Let me know who needs what. Everything is there except for the bevel gear housing cover gasket. Anyway bottom line is don’t beat your self up. Worst case scenario the plastics and racks are worth a lot of money in parts if you have to part it out. You will get most if not all of your money back in parting it out You live and learn. 🤷🏻‍♂️