Frank Angerano

By the way that plug should be a toasty brown. Was that a new plug ? Or newly installed ?

Nice work. Try to raise the clip on the needle and see if the pinging changes. It’s going to take some testing and time but it will be dialed in. Only thing I can go back to is the timing. I know you said it was all good just double check. Can’t hurt.

Sad

So here we go with all the dumb post to get to 10. @laddneu

If it’s just an over sized part for a bigger bike pull the wheel off and get a grinder take a quarter inch if it’s on the knuckle only. If it’s the tie rod also then your screwed and will have to swap it to the right one. And that’s a two piece part it’s possable that the whole part does not have to be changed. Just the upper control arm where the tie rod lands. Just a guess but would be a lot less labor.

Ok I would recommend high test and maybe an octane booster if need be. See if it goes away. One last thing I would check is the quality of your spark. Make sure it’s a strong blue spark and the gap is correct. And the pick up coil, ignition coil are in good shape. The quality of the spark will tell you.

Gotcha. Well you can’t take money to the grave. You can always make more money. 🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑 Ok well let’s see what it can do! I will be looking at the YouTube channel brother. Ride safe and welcome back.

Sounds great. Hopefully we can keep this one above sea level ? Or mud level!!! 😬 best of luck glad it’s back up and running. What was the final number on the repair $ 🤢?

Happy day !

Quick question I want to dumb this down a bit. Are you sure it’s not just a tie rod thats bad ? Is the tire just hitting the tie rod ball or the knuckle as well ?

Put a few washers on to give you some clearance for now until you figure this out. mean time you may find a new assembly on ebay depends on how much more you want to go for on this bike.

It could be possable that you didn’t reassemble the choke cable properly. Double check that. As far as the carb goes the setting on the carb for the air fuel screw should be about 2 and maybe a quarter turns out from a snug position. If the bike starts and runs then it’s just a small turn in or out to fine tune it. If the bike runs bad then reset the air fuel screw to a snug position and set it at 1-3/4 turns out from snug and see how that goes. Every bike is different so you just need to find a starting point to adjust from. Make sure the air filter is reinstalled befor the fine tune. You MUST be sure you cleaned the carb good. Get a can of compressed air and do it again just to be sure. Use a small piece of wire to clean out all the jets and orafaces. Take the can of compressed air that offices use to clean computer keyboards with and stick that small red hose that they give you in every port and blast it. Put a new spark plug in as well. Can’t hurt.

What are you running as far as octane high test ? If not boost the octane. See if it stops. Also when you put everything back together was the timing spot on? That’s important.

If you took that bike for a 10 mile ride and the temp light didn’t come on and the bike didn’t over heat then it should be good. I’ve seen instances where you have what’s called an “air bound” system. It’s essentially a stuck airball in the system that takes a big push of water pressure to push it through the system. Much like an air bound radiator in your house on a hot water heating system. Only difference is that home radiators have bleeders on them to get the air out. It’s very posable that this happened. So just keep an eye on it and you can look inside the radiator cap for fluid movement which will only happen after the thermostat is open. Take the cap off and start the bike and after about 10 min or so the water should start to flow. Is the cooling fan coming on properly also ?

Rims not likely both bent but you never know if that thing was slammed down on the front wheels. Is the wheel marked all the way around on the inside ? That would be a good indicator if the axle is bent or if it’s a constant rub then it would be more likely a wrong part or bearing issue axle in to far etc.

One thing I forgot to say is whenever I have things apart I’m a huge fan of taking care of something else that’s in the area. For instance I did my 400 bayou cams over. While the head was off I did the valve seals! The seals came with the head gasket. Never tackled them before but said how hard could it be ? Better yet how hard would it be to swallow the pill 💊 after putting that head back together to just find out it’s blowing smoke from a bad seal! So before you slap it back together take a good look around and see what else is in that area of work that you could take care of during the initial repair. Just sayin.

It happens. I’ve missed a few problems myself. The first two bikes I picked up were a hot mess. I bit the bullet and bought what was needed and fixed them. One I still have is my bear tracker runs great. Actually one of my very first posts here at Quadcrazy. The second which was the worst was the Polaris 90 cc two stroke. I put about $300 into that bike to get it back to good plus the manhours. Nobody thinks about the manhours! The bayou 220 I just posted needed a $13 dollar part and gasket kit, I could have just bought the one gasket for $8 bucks but picked up the entire set for $38 bucks just Incase I needed something else. The labor to get to that part was quite involved. I picked the bike up for a few hundred bucks put the parts in for about $80. Labor was about 10 hours to get it where it needed to be. Bike turned out great runs great and I’m currently putting it up for sale since I found a newer Polaris 300 4x4 that my boy likes. So if I get my price then it’s gone and I upgrade with the money. Having said that I have 95% of a bayou gasket kit for my fellow Quadcrazy members. Let me know who needs what. Everything is there except for the bevel gear housing cover gasket. Anyway bottom line is don’t beat your self up. Worst case scenario the plastics and racks are worth a lot of money in parts if you have to part it out. You will get most if not all of your money back in parting it out You live and learn. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@Alan Callison @GlenI Yes it can be expensive but worth it also. As far as the non starting it could be the main fuse next to the starter relay, a bad safety like a neutral safety switch, or something locking it out like a bad ignition or kill switch. Download the manual and post the wire diagram and I will help you out where I can tracing the source. As far as The bayou 220 goes @GlenI its going to be fun to do. Get familiar with the manual as soon as you are able to download and again you will find everything you need here info/helpwise. It’s only a machine and there is always an answer. Bad or good but there is an answer.

Quick question. Have you put the wheel back on whole or in the air and see if the rim or axle is bent ?

Always good when the owner keeps the old parts.

Well with the right parts and some help you can get that thing back to good!

Wow cool find in such great shape. The older bikes usually take a little longer to warm up. So I would not worry about that. It’s normal. Once she gets going she runs good like you said. Try to keep it in tact and running good. Sweet bike.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. Yes there is def a manual available. You have to be proactive in 10+ posts before you are able to download a manual which will be simple. Seems like a lot of bayous posted these days esp the 220 and 300’s. I’ve jist wrapped up a project 220 and a few other members on this forum are working on a few 300’s so any questions I’m sure you will get answers to here. So what’s the deal was it a barn find ? Sitting around ? Did the old owner give you any background on the bike? Any pics ?

Unless it was a 400 Bayou part that was put on? Any other damage that you can see on the frame ?

So most likely it was wrecked and another year knuckle was put on you think ? You can’t do a larger front wheel. They all have to be the same size or you will destroy the transmission.