Frank Angerano

Have you welded or jump started it a lot ? You can burn up the stator by doing so.

Why have had to replace the stator before if I may ask ?

Sounds like some nice work on the bike so far. Any pics? It’s probably not electrical and more so a carburetor issue which could be dirt, sediment from a dirty tank and yes even in the petcock. A lot of the time you will find that people clean the carburetor without cleaning the gas tank, petcock etc. Then they put the carb back on just to find that it’s dirty again from the junk that was left behind in the tank. Also an in line gas filter also helps.

I agree. It can’t hurt. You should see a difference in the engine with any little adjustment. So tear it down, clean the as***** out of it. Set the fuel/air screw at 2-1/2 turns and throw it back in.

Sounds great. The brake pads looked like they were beyond shot!! I don’t think I’ve ever seen it so clean. Good luck brother. Wished we would get a little snow down here! I think we should get some Quadcrazy stickers !!!!!

The only other place I can think of with Suzuki is the left front rail on the main frame under the foot rest black plastic.

Have you checked on the left rear frame where the tire is located. It’s the rail that runs down right above the rear tire.

Good morning ! Pounding headache too much vino last night. I think I’m going to pull the Mojave out today. See what’s what with it. Hope everyone has a great weekend.

Well whichever way you go if I’m up there any of the weekends let me know. I’m great with a shovel.

I agree with @Ajmboy but I’m a fan of taking the block wall out completely. Peel back the soil far enough back and form out and pour a footing with rebar sticking up. Then after the footing is set and cured form out a new retaining wall and pour a new wall with concrete. Strip it down and you will never have to touch it again. Before you back fill you add some crushed stone and a piece of perforated drain pipe along the bottom back side of the wall and back fill it. You can add some pieces of 1” pvc weep holes through the wall at the bottom every 10 feet but water will weep out and feeeze and that’s a pain in the as*. Salt etc.

I hear you brother as it can be frustrating. Did any of the adjustments change how the bike ran ? Reason I’m asking is it should change the engine performance. If the bike is running good at any one setting I would leave it there and move on to the next possable problem which leads me to my next question. Are you 100% sure it’s a pinging your hearing and not something else?

The cdi boxes are available on eBay. New and used. I really don’t think it’s your cdi though. Especially since you said you had spark before the rebuild. So unless you left it out where it was wet and moisture got inside or burnt it out by hooking something up wrong my guess is it’s prob fine. Have you double checked all of your wiring connections as well as looking for any banged wires that may have happened while putting the motor back in or pinched ? Have you tested the stator coil, regulator and secondary coils ? Easy test with an ohm meter. Double check your kill switch.

Lol I know brother. Be patient. You will get it squared away. Get that plug out and be easy.

Something does not look right on that carburetor. There should be a jet inside that middle of the carb the main jet . Was it taken out? Also is that the factory carb the oem ? It looks like it’s a Mikuni Ok that looks better. I didn’t see the last pic. See the main jet in the middle. The one you have the arrow pointed at is your air fuel mixture screw. You have to get the right screw driver to fit in and uncrew it. Was it tightened down all the way ? if the brass plug is in there yiu have to get a small pick and pull it out. Is that your carburetor or an image of another?

I would look to see if there is a compression relief lever on the head. Some of the bikes (not sure on your model) have this to make pull starting easier. I would also pull the spark plug and see if the engine spins any easier. If not there is something obviously holding the engine back. But try that first and see what happens. If it’s still tight we will go into it further. As far as the pull start having to be jiggled a little bit there is a spring that ejects a metal tab into the flywheel “cup”to spin the engine when you pull on the start cord. My guess is it has to be taken apart and a new spring and or tab needs replacing. Parts manual will show you exactly what the part names and locations/part number to get.

I couldn’t make my mind up on the dam thing. One was $74 and one was $36 bot great reviews but they looks so different. Top $74 the roller plate is just shown not included as the winch comes with it. Middle $59 Borrom $36 all coke with hardware.

Holy carp I double tapped on that pic lol. Thats a great post.

Good point.

Maybe wire wheel it and take a white or yellow crayon and run over the numbers hard. Wipe the excess off or lightly sand it and take a pic. Just an idea.

Ok well I would watch a few videos on YouTube if I were you on cleaning or rebuilding an atv carburetor and in a half hour you will be a pro at taking them apart. Secondly if you haven’t seen the fuel/air screw it would be safe to say you’ve never touched it then ? If that’s true then it may be a simple adjustment to clear up the ping.

Wow, looks like a lot of new colors. I like the black out version looks crazy. We used to be able to identify a bike flying by after seeing its colors for the most part. This will surly throw a monkey wrench into that !!!

I don’t think that’s correct. The pilot jet is stationary and should be tight. The air/fuel screw should be 2-1/2 turns out from a snug tight position and adjusted slightly in either direction to make it perfect while the bike is running. But should only be adjusted after the air filter and air box cover is back on the bike. Just double check before you go tearing into it. Also are you positive the carb is 100% cleaned properly? Only reason I’m asking is I’ve cleaned carbs over and over and somehow someway a pice of junk got back in. Either form the tank or in the line someplace. I also like fuel filters.

No sir no bracket. I had to buy one. The one I bought was for my model bike and it’s a bolt on.

Wow that’s a funky color plug. So not to confuse the two, the temp light and the pinging are two separate issues and one should have nothing to do with the other. Having said that it seems like your slowly making improvements and getting it dialed in. The only thing I can add at this point is to keep making small changes in the carb and get it as close as possible and keep track of the changes so you can go back should any new changes make things worse. As for the temp light thing it’s just a matter of coolant running through the system and creating dead/hot spots where the sensor is would be my guess. Especially since you said you took it out for a few 10 mile rides without over heating. I hope your keeping some tools and extra fluids like coolant out on these long rides.

The optimal color has that brown toasty looking tip on it. See that light brown? That’s what I’m talking about.