Frank Angerano

Agreed....

Lol my man @06kfx440 !!!! I say we set up a trip! Lord knows we could use it after all this madness!

Definitely a clutch, not expensive and you can 100% do it yourself.

I was always tinkering/working with my father in the shop. I learned HVAC by the time i was 16 and i mean fully knowledgeable. He taught me well and I understood it very easily. Then it was electrical troubleshooting on compressors and relays etc and it took off from there. Then i got into everything, heck i would be a billionaire today had my father not passed away. We were doing things with LED lights in the late 80's and early 90's. He told me they are the future and will be in every single light fixture on the planet! He said we will open a company and be very wealthy down the road! Boy was he right. He passed in 92 when i was 21 of cancer and I had to get a serious job and help support the family (Youngest of 9 kids). I was racing the amateur bracket and about to race for Kawasaki team green in the 250cc class (gave that up) and the rest is history!!! I worked from that point on supporting the fam with the help of my sisters and played with race cars and a ton of Suzuki GSXR engines when i had free time. Things would be very different for me had my father lived longer but thats life!! Not one single drop of sports in his body so we never did sports and i would not change one thing about it. I would not know half the sh** i know now if we played sports lol

I could not remember but i think you may be right on the white wire @MarkinAR Either way one of the three should have power.

Mine was a little older but my problem was in the throttle control on the handlebars. The rev limiter was soaking wet and killed the spark. I separated the wires and she ran like a champ however sometimes the quad fired up and other times it had no spark at all during the troubleshooting process. Double check your cdi is not wet or cracked in any way, moisture gets in and kills the spark.

From the images you posted it looks to me that the valve cover or top end cover is held down with some bolts? Have you tried to remove them? I marked them in red.

I was years ago. Back into it the last few years with my oldest. We built a Tetris game about a year ago and play with some remote control stuff.

Very nice looking machine!!

Ok the brown should be the hot 12+. Have you tried to jump the two bigger wires on the relay? The ones with the nuts on the relay ?

It could be on the lower portion of the cylinder head at the base. It could be the seal behind the water pump like you initially said. Problem is where to start????? Pick the least invasive path first which i think is the seal you mentioned.

Lol jacob u kill me brother. How did you not know??? Lol.

Check your regulator/rectifier and see if it gets hot when the atv starts to act up. Could be as simple as that. Its cheap enough to replace.

Does the valve cover come off exposing the top end ? Exposing the valve springs and rockers ?

It could be but the thermostat housing has a small bypass allowing coolant to flow throughout the system so there is flow to the radiator. Plus the coolant does make it to the top end on the return side and that heat will rise to the radiator.

The starter solenoid should have a 12+ power wire, maybe the white i cant remember. Have you jumped the two wires on the solenoid to see if the engine cranks ? Also some models had to have the brake lever pulled in. Any dash lights ?

I didn't lol. I went out and got some good ones though.

Oh ok, just wanted to make sure as there is really no adjustment for the timing. Either its on or its off. Did you find the proper size feeler gauge for the valve adjustment?

Hey chase, adjusting the timing ? The timing should be set in one spot only so check that your at TDC and your marks on the sprocket are good. Once that's done then the timing is set and should not be moved. After its all lined up the valves can be adjusted by loosening up the valve stem adjusters with a 10mm wrench. You basically stick the feeler gauge (size as per manual) in between the valve and rocker arm and slowly tighten the adjuster until that feeler gauge slides out with a little bit of resistance. Then you tighten the 10mm nut good and try to stick the feeler gauge back in, It should go in with a slight push. After that you should be set. Keep in mind that intake and exhaust valves are different sizes on the feeler gauges. All adjustments should be made in the TDC position.

Could have been a vacuum port? For now i would put a dab of silicone over the hole and let it sit over night to properly dry. At least you can ride. In the meantime you can research what it passably could be for. Maybe even take a ride out to your local Suzuki dealer and ask one of the mechanics or have them bring up a more detailed blow up of the carburetor. I will keep looking as well to see what i can find.

Good stuff!

Yep thats it and the part is behind and attached to the flywheel with some allen bolts. FYI the flywheel os deeper then the allen key so you have to use the longer stem on the allen key. Problem is its a bi*** to try and turn so you should have a set of good "T" handle allen keys.

Ok so at least the motor is good, locate that sensor and jump the wires together. If the fan comes on then the sensor is bad. If the fan does not come on then follow the steps as indicated in the previous messages.

I ordered a diode kit on Amazon and man i have to say it was worth it. $20 bucks for 80 various assorted diodes.

Well thats an oddball. I looked up the carb and its not called out. Sometimes there is a clip that holds in the fuel line (steel part) into the carb. It looks like a fork but i can't be sure. Have you removed the screw to see what it possibly does or is?