Frank Angerano

Unfortunately you cant test a cdi. The stator, pick up coils and all other components on the atv are testable and pretty easy to do. I can see if i still have the paperwork from my old bike and post it. Are you handy with a tester ?

Ok so why not start by possibly getting a new/used OEM ignition and splicing it in. This is probably one of the reasons your not getting a start by the push button. One of the wires thats at your ignition gets power when the ignition is turned on. If thats not happening then the start relay is not getting power to work. Have you tested any of the start relay smaller wires for power ? If not look at the colors of all the wires at the start relay, one should match the color at the missing ignition switch. As far as dash lights that can wait OR go look on ebay for a used dash with the lights and you might get lucky and find one with an ignition as well. As far as testing the stator you should be getting a reading (listed in the manual) between the 3 phases of the stator wires and no continuity from each of the phases to a ground. Any continuity from any one of the 3 phases to ground is an automatic fail on the stator. The pick up coil as far as the 325 number your getting means nothing unless its within range thats listed in the manual. You have to get this information in front of you and do the testing. If your new stator is on the way then it is what it is and leave it be I guess. Maybe nothing wrong with the existing one is what I'm getting at. And even if it was bad it would not stop the atv from cranking.

The pick up coil and stator coil would have nothing to do with the bike cranking. Thats going to be a power issue to the starter relay or a safety. Have you checked the left brake lever for the wiring? My bear tracker had that feature. Take a tester or a test light and see if any of the small wires on that relay have power with the key on. One should have power. Expose the ignition switch (key) wiring at the back and test them for power. One of the wires should have power. Start with that. Stator and pick up coils are both testable and easy to do so. I wouldn't want you to buy new coils if they are good. So if you need any info on testing ask away.

Very cool. Nice job on looming all the wires together. Clean work, @mikeexplorer, my friend has something along those lines and he built a shelf that runs along the entire first floor of his office building that the train runs on. Its about 8 feet in the air and goes through walls etc.

Take a piece of bicycle brake cable and separate the strands. Use one of the strands to clean any small holes in the jets. The float height adjustment is explained in that carburetor cleaning post. Take a look in there. As far as uploading of videos, I'm lost with that. Maybe @Ajmboy can help.

Excellent work so far and great info/pics to help the next person! Your definitely moving in the right direction. As fas as the gears go a slow shift in my past experience of an old bike that was laying around turned out to be sludge stuck at the bottom of the engine. I mean it was bad. However this one particular was sitting for prob 15 years. It took several oil changes to work it out. But yours could be something different. Maybe a tired spring or like you said a clutch issue.

Nice work so far. Always an old tank to send dirt back into the carburetor!! Always get into the habit of putting an in line filter after an old skunky sitting tank. Anyway I'm sure you did a great job on the carburetor cleaning. Did you pull the air fuel screw completely out and clean it good? I assume you used pressure to blow out all ports and jets. Did you mix the two jets up (main and pilot) some carburetors have the jets threaded alike and will fit in the wrong place. Ive done it before. I know the air fuel screw was set at 2 turns out and being set there would allow the engine to start but go back to the manual and verify the set point on the screw. Or go 2-1/2 turns out and see what happens or in 1-1/2 etc. Double check your choke is operating properly and was put back together the right way. Lastly two things. 1. make sure your float is set at the right height. It could be starving for fuel. 2. you could have done everything right and all this could be caused by a fouled plug. Put a fresh one in. Don't try and clean its not worth it.

The part number is the same as the one you listed but lets wait and see so we can verify. Can you post or check the vin # so you can verify the year ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164127962028 $55 bucks.

Thats great news. I've had this happen before! Especially when its super cold outside. Happy to hear its all good. Ride safe.

Well the neutral switch when failing will make the dash lights act up and prevent the starter from working. Some models also has the safety start switch on the left hand brake lever. It had to be pulled in before the starter would engage.

Locate and try to expose the ignition switch. You will need access at the back of the switch or the plug going to it. Check the ignition switch for power. One of the wires going to the switch will have 12+. Then turn the switch on and see if its sending 12+ out to the rest of the controls. If so that portion is ok. The next thing to check would be your neutral safety switch. It may be locking out your dash controls etc.

It may just be a vent hose that goes no place. Especially based on the color. A lot of the breather and vent hoses are clear. Overflow etc.

We are getting swamped here also. Its been raining heavy since midnight.

Good info and great pics!

👍🏻

Ahhhhh ok progress. Yes a cell can go bad in a battery and it happens a lot. One cell going bad is like a weak link on a chain. Bottom line..... get a new battery.

Maybe hone it out a but as it may be oval a bit. Buy a honer for the drill and run it in and out and keep dry fitting the piston as you go. Make sure you use a lubricant on the cylinder while testing to see how the piston fits.

It could be that the cylinder head is smaller then it should be. Maybe a smaller cylinder was put on after a top end went bu previous owner? Buy a micrometer and check the old and new piston. This should not happen, have you verified the existing cylinder is 65mm? Something is not adding up. Were the rings put in correctly?

Wow that looks a lot like the trails I ride. Good stuff!

The rings have to go in a certain way. There is a small roll pin that sits in the piston, the gap of the rings is supposed to meet at that point. Did you notice that? Is the piston the right cc?

Absolutely welcome brother. Looks like you ordered the right stuff! I agree with throwing the new gasket on but just spray carburetor cleaner on the one way clutch and clean it good. I think fresh oil and and you will be good to go. Worst case it acts up and you have the new one on hand.

Post pics when you get inside the cover.

Your welcome and great work. Happy to hear everything is working properly. Be sure to stay in touch and post pics.

No. Bottom line is this, if you jump the lugs on the solenoid the starter should spin! Unless there is a problem with the big wire going to the starter (which i doubt) then it should spin. You can take a jumper wire and go from the positive terminal on the battery and touch the lug on the starter itself to see if she spins. If not then there is a bigger problem within the engine. But one step at a time. Report back please.