Frank Angerano

Your welcome!

Great pic! Looks like a Suzuki commercial or advertising pic. Just curious, are you on the throttle while shifting or off the throttle? Does the shifter not even come up or hard to come up? Reason I'm asking is it may just be a clutch adjustment or maybe the belt ?

Great pic. Ive always wanted to do a sand run.

My apologies. That was from the 220. Here are the 300 numbers. I pulled these out for you. Should be good with these numbers.

Very cool. "Around the wall" layout. Much better way to explain it. Nice work mike!

These should be the numbers/pages your looking for.

10-4

Probably going to be valve stem seals or a piston and rings. (Maybe both) bit definitely going to need a compression test to see what's happening. Are you adding oil to keep up with the level ? Also what's the oil level? (Not over filled) is what I'm getting after. Lastly does the oil smell like gas?

Your looking on the wrong page. It should show you a stator coil page with a number reading from (example) 0.30 to 0.65 as a range and if you tested and it came back as 0.55 then its within range. These numbers are only for example Now the pick up coil should show you the same type of table but a much higher number like 189 to 330 for instance. Try and locate those pages. The page your showing me looks like a regulator/rectifier table.

Neutral safety switch. They should run down into the left side of the engine?

Ok so the first pic is your stator wires. 3 of them. Each one is called a phase and they come from the engine side. Not on the harness side. Take a tester and set it to ohms, test the wires (each phase to phase). Call them A,B,C. So put the test leads on each of the wires one in A and touch B and check your reading and then touch C and see your readings and then B and C. Your numbers between all of the phases should be about the same and that number should be within the range listed in the manual. Test each of the phases to ground also. Phase A one test lead the other to ground on the frame. You should not get a reading. Do that with B and C as well. Any readings from a phase to ground is a bad stator coil. The second pic should be your pick up coil. Two wires. Put your test leads on the two wires in that plug and check your readings. The number should be within the range shown in the manual.

I ordered mine from Amazon. Took two days to show up.

Should be everything you need here.

Hey @Lance Workman welcome to Quadcrazy. Do some testing and check the readings on the stator and pick up coil to see where they are. Do you have the acceptable ranges listed in the manual ? I would also check your readings on the rectifier/regulator and the ignition coil feeding the spark plug. Also while the engine is running wiggle the wires going into the stator cover to see if any worn areas of the wire are possibly rubbing agains the engine causing a momentary short. Continue to wiggle wires along the frame as well as it could be a short somewhere along the harness. Lastly does this happen during wet weather or going through puddles or any particular time like after the engine gets hot?

Yep. Last test is each phase of the stator wires to ground. Tester on continuity, you should not get any reading. Open circuit is what your looking for.

Definitely does @Ajmboy! Years ago i used to smoke pot. Loved it and would love to do sh** like that. Now i look at it and think nope!

Good for you. If i get some time i will help out.

Your very welcome. thats what makes Quadcrazy unique! Pay it forward to the next member!

Post a pic of the side view of the engine so i can see the flywheel.

Stator 0.45-0.55 phase to phase Pick up coil 189-231 Source coil 270-330

That to me seems like the engine kicked back almost like a backfire. The engine cover should stop the floating of gears when its installed so i don't think that's a problem. I am going to say at this point your going to have to definitely check your timing to see thats all in order. Im in the city. You?

Here are some screen shots of numbers your looking for. If your not clear on testing please feel free to ask. I will be on the road for about an hour. Check back later to see how you made out.

I agree with you @Timothy Doerr, Jr but you have to tackle one thing at a time. At least thats how i operate. For instance i would locate and get the ignition ordered and while im waiting for that do some testing and research and start solving other problems. So having said that you should be able to download the manual from our downloads section and lets look at the ignition wires we can safely put together and see what happens and what comes to life. I will help you along with that. @MarkinAR is absolutely correct on checking continuity on the existing wiring and he will jump in as well on the wiring. This is not going to be as difficult as it sounds. I find it easier to print the diagram out and highlight the different wires with colors to make life easier.

Unfortunately you cant test a cdi. The stator, pick up coils and all other components on the atv are testable and pretty easy to do. I can see if i still have the paperwork from my old bike and post it. Are you handy with a tester ?

Ok so why not start by possibly getting a new/used OEM ignition and splicing it in. This is probably one of the reasons your not getting a start by the push button. One of the wires thats at your ignition gets power when the ignition is turned on. If thats not happening then the start relay is not getting power to work. Have you tested any of the start relay smaller wires for power ? If not look at the colors of all the wires at the start relay, one should match the color at the missing ignition switch. As far as dash lights that can wait OR go look on ebay for a used dash with the lights and you might get lucky and find one with an ignition as well. As far as testing the stator you should be getting a reading (listed in the manual) between the 3 phases of the stator wires and no continuity from each of the phases to a ground. Any continuity from any one of the 3 phases to ground is an automatic fail on the stator. The pick up coil as far as the 325 number your getting means nothing unless its within range thats listed in the manual. You have to get this information in front of you and do the testing. If your new stator is on the way then it is what it is and leave it be I guess. Maybe nothing wrong with the existing one is what I'm getting at. And even if it was bad it would not stop the atv from cranking.