Frank Angerano

What color wires do you have at the control? Post a few pics. Should be a red wire and that should be coming from the main fuse block. You should trace that wire back to the fuse.

Love the dog!!!! And a wood stove is key!!

If you know that starter is working thats great. But the starter should have cranked when you jumped the two big lugs on the starter relay. Definitely take the wires off that relay and clean asap and see what you get. If that battery is good then you should get a crank by jumping the wires. And check that ground for a good connection.

The kill switch is a common suspect with atvs that are left outside. Water gets inside and eventually fills and corrodes the inside. But if its in the on position and the engine starts like you said i think its ok for now. Try to use a bigger philips head screwdriver on that screw for the kill switch. If it still does not come out then drill out the head only and when you get the control off you can grab the rest of the stud with a pair of vice grips and spin it out. Take the ground wire off and clean it good and put it back on. You may want to go get a can of dielectric grease clean and add it to all the electrical connections. So back to that red wire, it has voltage when you press the start button? If so thats good. Now do the same thing on the starter relay. Test all wires like we said in the last post and see if any get voltage when start button is pressed. This will tell you that the start button is working should you get power upon pressing the start button to any of those wires and thats a good thing if you do. Keep in mind a new relay may be needed and its cheap enough to get and easy to find. I say this because if you get power to any of the wires on that relay when you press the start button means the relay is getting power and it should click. UNLESS there is a ground issue and that will be the next step. Back to the starter, i feel like you should disconnect the starter if its bad. Once you get that relay to click its going to send power to the starter and if you jumped the wires like you said and that starter is not moving you could burn wires up so be careful.

Nice work brother. Had to be a vent line. Ride safe.

Your welcome. Ride safe.

Ok but any click coming from the start relay? Put a tester on the the relay and and check each wire for power on the small plug when you hit the start button. One test lead on the ground and the other test lead on each wire one at a time. Press the start button and see if you get any readings. Did you pull the brake handle in as well and check that it has wires coming from it ?

Yes that relay needs power to close and need to get it from someplace. So when you grounded the neutral safety switch and reverse wires and lights came on the starter button did not make the starter relay click ?

Could be moisture getting into certain electrical components if its left outside or just like you said, the kids flooded it. Give everything a once over and make sure all plugs are good etc. maybe run some high test fuel and monitor the machine for a bit.

You have to have the barn set up before you get into all of that. Tools cleaned up etc, a work area and a beer fridge! 🍺

Ok thats progress. Did you reconnect the neutral safety and reverse wires to the switches to see if your dash lights come on? If not do a continuity test from ground to the probe on the neutral safety switch while the bike is in neutral. If you do NOT get a reading then the switch is most likely bad. Have you tried to jump the two wires on the starter relay like i mentioned and hit the start button to see if the starter relay clicks? And don't forget to have a tester on the wore of the starter to see if your getting voltage when trying to crank.

Looks like a good ride! Fun in the snow. Great video.

I would go right to the intake and check there first. My guess would be something is in there or the air filter is breaking apart and small portions are getting sucked into the carb? Air filters after a while break apart if they are not kept oiled. Simple stuff first, after that get into the carburetor etc. Check for bad fuel, water in the fuel, poor fuel flow. Maybe a bad petcock or screen, all this stuff happens.

Ok so i spent a little time going through the diagram and highlighted some stuff. Im going to try to explain as best as i can since its been a while with a Yamaha for me. #4 battery/power goes to #3 (orange highlight) main switch and also to the rectifier. When it leaves the main switch the wire is brown (purple highlight) sends 12v positive to the #13/12 indicator lights for the neutral and reverse. NOW they need a ground source for them to come on. Thats where the neutral safety switch #14 (green) comes into play as well as the reverse #15 switch. When you shift the atv into neutral it grounds the sky blue wire thats on the neutral safety switch (green highlight) and sends that ground to the neutral indicator light and the light comes on. The sky blue wire also splits off to the starter safety circuit relay #8 (pink highlight) and gives that relay a ground as well. That relay also already should have a 12v positive power source from the cdi box #9 (red/white stripe) wire color. Check that wire for power with the key on. By these two wires (sky blue -)and (red/white stripe+) giving that relay power it closes the starter circuit relay and sends power to the dashboard and start button. ALSO important is the rear brake switch #16 (blue highlight) it has to be pulled in for the bike to crank as well. At least it did on mine. It was located on the left handlebar brake lever. Make sure that switch is there and working. Testing: You can take a piece of wire and jump the blue/white stripe and the red/white stripe going to #8 safety starter relay for a second and see if you get dash lights and see if the starter button works but since it sounds like your starter is stuck or bad you would have to keep a tester or test light on the wire at the starter to see if the starter button works and is in fact sending power to the starter. YOU SHOULD also hear a clicking from the starter relay if the start button works. Try to tap on the starter lightly with a rubber mallet or hammer to maybe free it up while cranking but be gentle. Also, Pull the safety starter relay out and make sure its clean and wires are good. Take apart all the wiring one at a time and clean and plug or reconnect so you don't get them mixed up. I circled the starter safety relay in light blue, that relay has the blue white stripe and res white stripe to jump. I hope this helps and let me know how it goes. Good luck brother.

Ok so you may have a bad starter as well with the other things. First thing i would do is reconnect the neutral safety switch and reverse wires. Take a tester and put it on the wire going to the starter. Jump the coil again and see if you get voltage at the starter. If so the starter has either bad brushes or its no good. You may be able to pull the starter out and clean and bench test it. As far as the 12v going to the starter relay thats a good thing. The starter circuit relay is the next plug you see by the starter relay. I circled in yellow. After you reconnected the neutral safety switch and reverse wires i want you to take a tester and see what you have on that plug as far as power goes. See if any of the wires have power with the key on. If any have power let me know. Then set your tester to continuity and see if any of the wires have continuity from the negative terminal on the battery to any of the wires in that plug. What im trying to see is if any of the wires going to that plug have a ground source.

RM stators. They have flywheels and stator coils. Waiting on my new puller for the flywheel. Should be here today.

So you jumped the two wires circled in red and it didn't crank ? Battery good ? Any sparks from were you jumped it ?

You will get them brother. Keep it ip up!

Sorry i forgot to attach.

@northernmi i agree. Going back together on Sunday. I will keep all posted.

No zero! Its solid state construction. Only way a cdi would go bad is like myself and @mikeexplorer said. 20 years plus or a cracked casing that allows moisture to get inside. Sorry brother i have to throw the flag here.

Great pics! Im not sure your looking at the neutral safety switch. Depending on the year and model. Make sure you are looking at the right thing is all im saying. As far as the wiring under the seat it looks like its in good condition. I circled the two wires in red to jump and see if the engine cranks. The next ones circled in blue are the wires going to the relay that come from your starter button. One of them should have 12v positive with the key on. Question: are you handy with wiring or a tester ? Reason I'm asking is i don't want to over explain it to you if you have a general understanding of this. If not we will walk you right through it step by step.

Ahhh ok, now i see what your saying. Well you can cross reference the stud part numbers on www.partzialla.com and compare and see if the same numbers come up. My guess is there would probably be a difference in the thickness and even the length. I looked up the part numbers and they do look different. I was not sure on the 19 model, you said 19 general?

Ok so parts are finally in my possession, stator is installed. Flywheel is here but of course my puller broke!!!!! Wtf???? New one is on the way. I like this new flywheel, looks and feels well built.

Well thats a first for me. Maybe if it were a moist area where they were stored?? Constant electrical flow should have nothing to with the life span of a cdi. As long as its not soaked or hooked up backwards (battery) it should be fine. In some of my previous posts on other topics, i mention how i put a cdi in the oven for 10 min on 250 deg. Pulled it out, cooled it off and put it back on the atv and it worked for a few days until it got moist inside again. Baked it one more time and this time added silicone to the outside of the cdi and it was fine for a long time. The failure inside cdi boxes are usually caused by failed diodes. Weather it be from reverse voltage, welding on an atv without disconnecting the wiring etc. These things wreak havoc and stops the cdi from sending voltage to the ignition coil any longer. Now if its just a moisture issue then it can be warmed, dried and resealed as mentioned above. Just don't over cook it.